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Balancing engine components? Good investment?

Started by 72Charger-SE, January 31, 2015, 07:47:57 PM

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72Charger-SE

The engine builder called and we finished ordering all necessary hardware to complete my 440.  Everything is at the machine shop and I have a full quote for putting it all together (pan to intake) as well as painting the engine.  My question is about balancing...  The machine shop is quoting me a cost of $200 to balance the engine components which seems like it would be a good idea to me?  Opinions?  Is balancing a motor a good plan or wasted effort and money spent unwisely?

Thanks & GOD Bless,
Chad

myk

I'd balance it for twice that amount.  The rotating assembly needs every bit of help it can get to be as efficient as possible.  Can you get away without it?  Of course, but $200 is a small price to pay to have a smooth, balanced rotating assembly...
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72Charger-SE

Quote from: myk on January 31, 2015, 08:28:30 PM
I'd balance it for twice that amount.  The rotating assembly needs every bit of help it can get to be as efficient as possible.  Can you get away without it?  Of course, but $200 is a small price to pay to have a smooth, balanced rotating assembly...

That is what I was thinking..  for $200 seems like a small price for what is gained.   Thanks for your comment.

1974dodgecharger

balance it or your car wont rev past 4k  :icon_smile_big: 


at least that's the rumor I heard most people who build engines slap em together and cant figure out why their car wont past 4k or violently shakes etc...

fy469rtse

Yes by all means balance it , any vibrations are not good for internal keys parts,
Read a unbalanced engine will punish those new bearings
Yes good investment in the longevity of your engine

myk

Were factory engines balanced to that degree as well, or was it all externally done with the torque converter?
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BSB67

It is always easy to spend someone else's money, especially when pleasing the "doing it right" Gods.  There is always a "right", but also a "right enough".  If you are not using replacement or replacement type parts you need to re-balance.  If you are using replacement type parts you can get away without re-balancing.  You may or may not have a slight noticeable vibration.

500" NA, Eddy head, pump gas, exhaust manifold with 2 1/2 exhaust with tailpipes
4150 lbs with driver, 3.23 gear, stock converter
11.68 @ 120.2 mph

Challenger340

Quote from: 72Charger-SE on January 31, 2015, 07:47:57 PM
The engine builder called and we finished ordering all necessary hardware to complete my 440.  Everything is at the machine shop and I have a full quote for putting it all together (pan to intake) as well as painting the engine.  My question is about balancing...  The machine shop is quoting me a cost of $200 to balance the engine components which seems like it would be a good idea to me?  Opinions?  Is balancing a motor a good plan or wasted effort and money spent unwisely?

Thanks & GOD Bless,
Chad


What Pistons did you order/buy ?
What Connecting Rods are you using ? etc. ?

Most factory Piston and Pins come in between 1075g to 1100 grams.

About the only Pistons out there "close" to those weights, where you could reasonable expect to re-assemble without re-balancing, you should NOT be using anyways, because they are the notoriously LOW Compression rebuilder "cast" type slugs(not worth the aluminum they are made from).
The only "exception" to the above, because there always is one.... would be the Forged L2355 6-pack pistons from Federal Mogul, but even these are on the Heavy side typically, and you "should" have the rotating assembly balanced.

All the rest, of the Pistons you should be using for a decent rebuild.... from the cheapest KB's and ICON Forged... right through Wiseco's Protrue, JE/SRP, etc., etc., are ALL going to be down around 900 grams, and you had better be Balancing it ! IMHO.   
Only wimps wear Bowties !

BSB67

Quote from: Challenger340 on February 01, 2015, 10:57:29 AM


Most factory Piston and Pins come in between 1075g to 1100 grams.

About the only Pistons out there "close" to those weights, where you could reasonable expect to re-assemble without re-balancing, you should NOT be using anyways, because they are the notoriously LOW Compression rebuilder "cast" type slugs(not worth the aluminum they are made from).
The only "exception" to the above, because there always is one.... would be the Forged L2355 6-pack pistons from Federal Mogul, but even these are on the Heavy side typically, and you "should" have the rotating assembly balanced.
 

Correct.  The L2266F and its 1.99" compression distance is okay if it is a cruiser as you can get to 9:1 CR easy enough with open chamber heads, but w/o quench.  The 2355, 2266, and 2295 will be in that weight range with the supplier wrist pins.  I think that there are a couple of cast offerings as well, but you have to stay away from the 1.91" compression height offerings.

500" NA, Eddy head, pump gas, exhaust manifold with 2 1/2 exhaust with tailpipes
4150 lbs with driver, 3.23 gear, stock converter
11.68 @ 120.2 mph

John_Kunkel

Quote from: myk on February 01, 2015, 07:13:05 AM
Were factory engines balanced to that degree as well, or was it all externally done with the torque converter?

The factory spun balanced the crank using an "average" bobweight...nowhere as good as using a bobweight calculated on the actual weight of the components.

If external balance weight was needed it was installed during the spin balancing.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

1974dodgecharger

Somes guy don't like to balance their engines he once told me he don't care if he just spent 10k on a engine rebuild with no balancing as long as it in his 2nd gen charger he is happy.  ;D

72Charger-SE

Quote from: Challenger340 on February 01, 2015, 10:57:29 AM
Quote from: 72Charger-SE on January 31, 2015, 07:47:57 PM
The engine builder called and we finished ordering all necessary hardware to complete my 440.  Everything is at the machine shop and I have a full quote for putting it all together (pan to intake) as well as painting the engine.  My question is about balancing...  The machine shop is quoting me a cost of $200 to balance the engine components which seems like it would be a good idea to me?  Opinions?  Is balancing a motor a good plan or wasted effort and money spent unwisely?

Thanks & GOD Bless,
Chad


What Pistons did you order/buy ?
What Connecting Rods are you using ? etc. ?

Most factory Piston and Pins come in between 1075g to 1100 grams.

About the only Pistons out there "close" to those weights, where you could reasonable expect to re-assemble without re-balancing, you should NOT be using anyways, because they are the notoriously LOW Compression rebuilder "cast" type slugs(not worth the aluminum they are made from).
The only "exception" to the above, because there always is one.... would be the Forged L2355 6-pack pistons from Federal Mogul, but even these are on the Heavy side typically, and you "should" have the rotating assembly balanced.

All the rest, of the Pistons you should be using for a decent rebuild.... from the cheapest KB's and ICON Forged... right through Wiseco's Protrue, JE/SRP, etc., etc., are ALL going to be down around 900 grams, and you had better be Balancing it ! IMHO.   

The pistons are 'Federal Mogul' (not sure on part number)
I am using the factory connecting rods.
Ported and polished 906 heads
The plan is 425 HP (fun on the street and smooth idling).
The machine shop in this area which builds alot of the circle track motors is building my motor.   Brian is an 'old school' machine shop guy who knows his stuff and comes highly recommended in this area.



BSB67

Quote from: 72Charger-SE on February 15, 2015, 09:56:24 PM
Quote from: Challenger340 on February 01, 2015, 10:57:29 AM
Quote from: 72Charger-SE on January 31, 2015, 07:47:57 PM
The engine builder called and we finished ordering all necessary hardware to complete my 440.  Everything is at the machine shop and I have a full quote for putting it all together (pan to intake) as well as painting the engine.  My question is about balancing...  The machine shop is quoting me a cost of $200 to balance the engine components which seems like it would be a good idea to me?  Opinions?  Is balancing a motor a good plan or wasted effort and money spent unwisely?

Thanks & GOD Bless,
Chad


What Pistons did you order/buy ?
What Connecting Rods are you using ? etc. ?

Most factory Piston and Pins come in between 1075g to 1100 grams.

About the only Pistons out there "close" to those weights, where you could reasonable expect to re-assemble without re-balancing, you should NOT be using anyways, because they are the notoriously LOW Compression rebuilder "cast" type slugs(not worth the aluminum they are made from).
The only "exception" to the above, because there always is one.... would be the Forged L2355 6-pack pistons from Federal Mogul, but even these are on the Heavy side typically, and you "should" have the rotating assembly balanced.

All the rest, of the Pistons you should be using for a decent rebuild.... from the cheapest KB's and ICON Forged... right through Wiseco's Protrue, JE/SRP, etc., etc., are ALL going to be down around 900 grams, and you had better be Balancing it ! IMHO.   

The pistons are 'Federal Mogul' (not sure on part number)
I am using the factory connecting rods.
Ported and polished 906 heads
The plan is 425 HP (fun on the street and smooth idling).
The machine shop in this area which builds alot of the circle track motors is building my motor.   Brian is an 'old school' machine shop guy who knows his stuff and comes highly recommended in this area.




You should get the piston part number just to make sure.  Now is the time.

500" NA, Eddy head, pump gas, exhaust manifold with 2 1/2 exhaust with tailpipes
4150 lbs with driver, 3.23 gear, stock converter
11.68 @ 120.2 mph

Sublime/Sixpack

If the balancing is done correctly it's money well spent! Unfortunately not all shops do a good job of it.
To the OP, do some research on what goes into a good balance job, then talk with your builder about the process he will go through to balance your assembly. Not all machinists/engine builders are equal. Too many are more concerned about getting your money than they are in building the best engine possible.
1970 Sublime R/T, 440 Six Pack, Four speed, Super Track Pak

don duick

yes I spent $500 on balancing. total cost of my rebuild was $6000. No point spending $5500 and not get full benefit of it. It spins t0 6000 rpm easily

ottawamerc

Quote from: BSB67 on February 01, 2015, 09:21:00 AM
It is always easy to spend someone else's money, especially when pleasing the "doing it right" Gods.  There is always a "right", but also a "right enough".  If you are not using replacement or replacement type parts you need to re-balance.  If you are using replacement type parts you can get away without re-balancing.  You may or may not have a slight noticeable vibration.

EXACTLY !!My rebuild was I used replacement parts and my builder couldnt remember if he balanced my parts but I doubt he did as I have a "tight" vibration when I rev the engine in neutral. Like MYK said I would spend twice that amount to get that done! :yesnod:

Scott :cheers:
This hobby is more than just our cars, it's the people you get to meet along the way!!!