My long, long fight with a simple dipstick(Finally Solved)

[nge]

Hi all,
I'm having a bit of a problem here.
I recently had a 440 rebuilt and reinstalled in my 1973 Charger.
The shop reinstalled the dipstick tube so that it ran under the exhaust manifold. This wasn't really a problem, except that the dipstick handle hit the inner fender.
So, I pulled the tube to re-rout it and 3 week nightmare has begun!
I have tried to reinstall the stock tube and bent it. Tried and bent a Mopar Performance chrome tube and bent it, Next a I tried a $60 Mildon flexible tube but the end is too fat to fit behind the motor mount, I had to grind the Milodon end until the braiding let loose....so no luck.
My problem is the motor mount. All manufactures (Mildaon, Lokar, Mopar etc) all show the dipstick tube nicely installed next to the motor mount.
The problem is that no one shoes the frame part of the motor mount. On my 73, this is right in front of the tube hole in the block. The only way to get a tube in the block is to add and s-curve to the tube immediately before it enters the block. There is only about 1/4 -5/16 clearance and you really can't see back there, now way to get a wrench back there to tap it in...can only be tapped from the handle end of the stick.
I can get a stick in the hole only if I grind the lip off. (yes its that tight) But every time I try to tap the stick into the block, the tube will bend. I've tried grease, freezing, grinding etc. A Google search only shows the stick installed with the motor out of the engine so the frame mount interference is never shown.
I have ordered a total of 6 dipsticks (no joke) and I hope to send back the ones I don't use.....but this is frustrating and humiliating and I can start the car until I solve this)
Can any one help me with lessons learned, pictures or tricks?
Thank you
Vic

[moparnation74]

They can be a PITA!
I got mine from frank baldason.  They are correct but not a simple fit.  The end that slips in the block. I used fine sandpaper and sanded in a circular motion a bit.  Do not go crazy it has to be tight and not loose.  Place tube in slot and tap on the lip with a flat screw driver.  Constantly, move around the lip.  It is a slow process.  Also put a thin film of rtv on it.

[John_Kunkel]

I use a 3/8" crowsfoot wrench at the end of a long extension to install the dipstick tube. The wrench contacts over half of the flange near the bottom of the tube.

[moparnation74]

I use a 3/8" crowsfoot wrench at the end of a long extension to install the dipstick tube. The wrench contacts over half of the flange near the bottom of the tube.

Great point! Thanks john
When the motor is out if the car I used a 3/8 wrench.  In the car is a different story thou.  Your idea is the solution!

[c00nhunterjoe]

3rd gen's must be ignorant. The tube in my 2nd gen is a peice of cake.

[nge]

About 3rd gens.
I seems simple and it is..if the engine is out of the car. 
On the frame where the mount bolts into however is a stiffening "roll" that blocks the access to the tube. 
I know that there are aftermarket motor mounts. But the frame is vintage 1973 Mopar. 
With such a tight  clearance I suspect many tubes got bent a little when the factory installed the engines on an moving assembly line.

I had to take dremel tool to the frame and clearance it just enough to get the tube lip to get back around there

[69rtse4spd]

I use a 3/8" crowsfoot wrench at the end of a long extension to install the dipstick tube. The wrench contacts over half of the flange near the bottom of the tube.

Did the same thang, later at work took a piece of c.r.s. flat stock drilled a .375 hole, champherd the hole, slotted it so it fits around the tube & welded to a .375 socket. 

[beezee]

 Put it overnight in the freezer then try to instal,worked for me with little effort.

[moparnation74]

Put it overnight in the freezer then try to instal,worked for me with little effort.

Good Point!

[HANDM]

Have you tried removing the engine mount bolt and jacking up the engine a bit to gain access?

I had to do that and practically remove the header to get mine in

[1973rallye]

Have you tried removing the engine mount bolt and jacking up the engine a bit to gain access?

I had to do that and practically remove the header to get mine in

That's exactly what I did to get mine in. Also used a narrow screwdriver down the tube to prevent it from bending while I tapped it in gently. Also had to loosen the exhaust manifold. This only after destroying a tube before taking these measures.

[nge]

Solution
First of all, i have been told that most tube stick combos are for the Pre-1973 Frames.  So, owners of 1972s and earlier cars probably thought this was a non-issue.
Turns out that the motor mount bracket attached to the frame is right in front of the stiffening rib on the 440 block.
Its so tight, that  I had to "clearance" the the block and the motor mount with a dremel tool just enough to get the tube to pass between the motor-mount and the block.  After I did that, it was a matter of knocking it in and pushing it down at the same time.
Not thrilled about filing away some of the stiffening rib, but my choices were limited.