Drive Shaft Loop

[69fourspd]

I am going to get a drive shaft loop for my 69, and thought I would check and see if anyone has used/seen this one - even if you havent it might be worth a look.

http://proaluminumproducts.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=13

It looks like the US Car Tool loop, but is aluminum.  I am using the car as a street car - so for my cars sake and added safety I want to get a loop. This would be nice to not drill the holes in my pans, and the price is about a 1/3 of the US Car Tool style.  Thoughts?

[BrianShaughnessy]

Aluminum isn't nhra legal.     I got over having to drill a few holes in my floorpan. 

As for saving $...   my friend's hemi Road Runner (10.8 @ 127) blew the rear u joint at Mopars at LVD at the end of Sept.   OK,  actually the stock 7290 yoke on his dana let loose...    took out the driveshaft and ph8cked up his 727 also.    I had asked him about a rear loop before but he kinda blew it off.   I'm glad he had a good front on it.  Beat the heck out of his floor pan underneat the back seat. 

complete spec.

2.4 DRIVELINE

On any car in which the driver sits over or in back of the rearend center section, a suitable protective shield of .120-inch (3 mm) minimum thickness steel plate must be installed for those units with universal joints securely mounted to the rearend center section and the bellhousing adapter. Where possible, couplers are recommended in place of U-joints. For straight couplers, the minimum requirement is .063-inch (1.6 mm) aluminum which must contain an inspection cover for removal and inspection of the coupler, securely mounted to the rearend center section and the bellhousing adapter, or as noted in Class Requirements. In place of a crossmember, in the vicinity of the front universal joint, all cars in competition using open driveshafts, must have a retainer loop 360-degrees of enclosure, 1/4-inch (6.35 mm) minimum thickness and 2-inches (5.1 cm) wide, or 7/8-inch (22.2 mm) x .065-inch (1.65 mm) welded steel tubing, securely mounted and located within 6-inches (15.2 cm) of the front universal joint for support of the driveshaft in event of U-joint failure. Recommended the loop be round rather than oblong to minimize loading on loop. Open drivelines passing any part of the driver's body must be completely enclosed in 1/8-inch (3.2 mm) minimum thickness steel plate, securely mounted to the frame or frame structure.

Here's one of my previous posts on the matter  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,16960.0.html

[471_Magnum]

3/8" aluminum wouldn't stand a chance. Not a good place to compromise.

[69fourspd]

Good to know it wouldnt be NHRA legal, but I wont be running the car at the strip.  I was also concerned about the 3/8 aluminum not holding up, but this is for light applications not running the car at the strip. I am right aroung 425 440HP with a 3.91 rear and shift kit.  I agree, I dont want to compromise the car or myself!

[Wakko]

I've got a standard steel one on my car and it saved my bacon once already.  Previous owner forgot to tighten the inchworm bolts (and I never checked them) and they came loose at 45 mph.  Other than the lost U joint, zero damage to anything else.  Had the shaft balanced and checked for straightness but the guy said it was perfect.   Whew, got lucky there.   Keep in mind, that was cruising at 45, not racing at 90.