Is there an easy 65 Slant Six 170 valve adjustment procedure?

[WH23G3G]

Ok I'm finished with everything I'm going to do with this 65 Valiant I have except for a few little things before I start driving it. However, it dies and floods when you give it full throttle on the gas pedal. I've got timing and all vacuum leaks fixed. Carb is a reman a year or two old. New tanks, lines, fuel pickup. I've gotten all the adjustment out of this carb I can get. I know the choke thermostat is worn out but they are hard to find NOS for a reasonable price if you can find one. I know some here have said they think maybe the valves maybe too tight. I never messed with them the 4 years I've had the car, they aren't making noise, or not smoking. I've been scared to try it after reading the procedure. It seems complicated. Get at TDC compression and then turn it 60 degrees or something like that to do the next two valves. I figured I'd get the amount of degrees off wrong and totally get the valve adjustment out of whack. The 65 service manual I have doesn't even specify how to do the valve adjustment procedure. Is there an easy to do it so I'm sure I'm adjusting the right valves and have the motor turned just enough?

[red79]

On a slant, it's possible to adjust the valves the slow way with the engine off, turn 60 deg, etc., but that's more suited to a fresh engine build where you think the lashes might be way off and you don't want to damage anything.

If the motor runs, it's lot easier and faster to adjust the lashes with the engine running, valve cover off, and a rag on the low side to catch any oil splashes. Just takes a socket wrench and a set of feeler gauges. The whole procedure only takes ~10 min. The tricky thing to remember is the intake-exhaust order changes halfway down the head, so keep an eye on which port you're adjusting for so you don't lash an intake valve to exhaust specs and vice versa.

Here's a good link explaining everything in more detail:
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=72139&highlight=#72139

And if you have any other slant questions, the slant six forum is full of very knowledgeable and helpful folks. Might be a good idea to take a look over there before anything else, as your problem doesn't really sound like tight lash 

[WH23G3G]

Is it the most likely cause for a stall under full throttle acceleration? I replaced the carb again today with a reman from Summit, it's actually the correct #3054 for a 65 170 of 1965. It idles perfect starts up without a whole lot of cranking and drives normal. But I need to make sure it will handle the road before I tag and drive it. So when I full throttle it, if I keep my foot on the gas it will stay but it will die after you let off and stop. And has a flooding issue after that, you have to keep your foot on the gas to get it restarted. I checked for vacuum leaks again and could not find any. Even if the valves aren't making noise or smoking could valve adjustment be off that much to cause this issue? Only thing in the fuel system I haven't replaced is the fuel pump, because it looks fairly new but 4+ years new. It was the newest piece on the car when I got it about 3 years ago.

[WH23G3G]

So I also did the valve adjustment procedure on my Valiant. I marked the damper in 120 degree increments starting from #1 TDC. I started with #1 and then worked my way through the firing order and the pulley did turn twice just like the instructions say. I also let it run for about 15 minutes before I did it. However, there really wasn't any valves out of specs. I think maybe a couple exhaust valves were a little tight but not much. So I put them at .010 and .020. But it didn't really change the way it starts, runs, and drives. It seems like you can drive it normally but if you really take off full throttle and you let off the gas it stalls. It takes a few cranks to get it back running again. I do notice the exhaust pipe to manifold has an exhaust leak. Could that cause it? The intake and exhaust where it meets the head is good only leak is at the pipe to manifold. Even the intake to exhaust manifold isn't leaking. The only thing in the fuel system I haven't replaced is the fuel pump. Could that cause it? I sure don't want to waste the money on getting a tag if it will never be reliable enough to drive it around town. And I just put this carburetor from Summit on a week ago, it doesn't seem to be running too rich or too lean, idles good too. What else could it be if it's not the valves?