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A-833 Shifting and Grinding Issues

Started by RAC95054, October 27, 2014, 04:59:06 PM

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RAC95054

Hi everyone.  I was needing a little feedback on a tranny issue I've recently started having.  I did do some searches here, but there seemed to be mixed messages in what I read, since none seemed specifically addressing my issue.

My 18-spline recently started grinding when trying to shift into reverse after driving some (initially, no problems at all, before driving).  I assume it's because the shaft must still be spinning.  Sometimes it's worse than others.  I've also had trouble getting it into 1st and 2nd after I stop at a light, after everything has warmed up a bit.  Does all this mean my synchros are wearing out and a rebuild is needed?  Or is it something more?  I assume it's not a fluid issue, or a clutch adjustment issue (via the rod at the Z-bar under the car).  I have been using the normal 75W90 gear oil in the tranny for 5 or 6 years now, with no issues until recently, so assumed that wasn't a factor.

Since the transmission isn't the original, I have no idea of exact mileage on it, but was told it was lower mileage, and it looked to be because it was in very good condition (inside and out) with many of the original markings still on it. 

Any input is much appreciated.  If the concesus is that I need a rebuild, who do you recommend in the Northern California/West Coast area?  And if none are in this neck of the woods, who is best in general (factoring in dependability/time/cost)?

Thank you!
Play: Work that you enjoy doing for nothing.   -Evan Esar

c00nhunterjoe

Quote from: RAC95054 on October 27, 2014, 04:59:06 PM
Hi everyone.  I was needing a little feedback on a tranny issue I've recently started having.  I did do some searches here, but there seemed to be mixed messages in what I read, since none seemed specifically addressing my issue.

My 18-spline recently started grinding when trying to shift into reverse after driving some (initially, no problems at all, before driving).  I assume it's because the shaft must still be spinning.  Sometimes it's worse than others.  I've also had trouble getting it into 1st and 2nd after I stop at a light, after everything has warmed up a bit.  Does all this mean my synchros are wearing out and a rebuild is needed?  Or is it something more?  I assume it's not a fluid issue, or a clutch adjustment issue (via the rod at the Z-bar under the car).  I have been using the normal 75W90 gear oil in the tranny for 5 or 6 years now, with no issues until recently, so assumed that wasn't a factor.

Since the transmission isn't the original, I have no idea of exact mileage on it, but was told it was lower mileage, and it looked to be because it was in very good condition (inside and out) with many of the original markings still on it. 

Any input is much appreciated.  If the concesus is that I need a rebuild, who do you recommend in the Northern California/West Coast area?  And if none are in this neck of the woods, who is best in general (factoring in dependability/time/cost)?

Thank you!


The initial problem described sounds like a clutch that is partially engaged. The 2nd problem sounds like the "standard" 75/90 oil. Standard to me, means off the shelf gl5 oil which will cause premature syncro wear. You need a gl4 oil.

RAC95054

Quote from: c00nhunterjoe on October 27, 2014, 05:57:14 PM
The initial problem described sounds like a clutch that is partially engaged. The 2nd problem sounds like the "standard" 75/90 oil. Standard to me, means off the shelf gl5 oil which will cause premature syncro wear. You need a gl4 oil.

Thanks for the reply.  So, the first problem, can I adjust it?  Which way am I needing to go on the rod?  Looser or tighter?

As for the oil, what about 75W140 Royal Purple?  I live in a (usually) warm area, so thought that might help.  And is it too late?  Is the damage done that I need to replace the synchros?
Play: Work that you enjoy doing for nothing.   -Evan Esar

charger1972

I had the same problem , but had a scatter shield not a bell housing . The clutch fork would hit the scatter shield and not fully disengage the clutch . Was really bad when things were heated up .

c00nhunterjoe

Quote from: RAC95054 on October 27, 2014, 06:10:09 PM
Quote from: c00nhunterjoe on October 27, 2014, 05:57:14 PM
The initial problem described sounds like a clutch that is partially engaged. The 2nd problem sounds like the "standard" 75/90 oil. Standard to me, means off the shelf gl5 oil which will cause premature syncro wear. You need a gl4 oil.

Thanks for the reply.  So, the first problem, can I adjust it?  Which way am I needing to go on the rod?  Looser or tighter?

As for the oil, what about 75W140 Royal Purple?  I live in a (usually) warm area, so thought that might help.  And is it too late?  Is the damage done that I need to replace the synchros?


How much freeplay is in the pedal? If there is none, then it sounds like a wore out diaphram. If you have slop in the pedal, then adjust it down at the trans.
  I think the rp is still gl5. It will say on the bottle. I am a fan of redline. I an currently running the mtl in my unrebuilt 833. I can flatshift it with no problem.

1974dodgecharger

could be a lot of things, maybe the shifter box is wrong also?  Or the syncrhos are worn for reverse?  I had that same issue in my car, but then I just got a used/rebuilt one and the grind was gone, but now I have a slight grind downshifting into first and have to come to complete stop to put into first.

c00nhunterjoe

Quote from: 1974dodgecharger on October 27, 2014, 08:56:29 PM
could be a lot of things, maybe the shifter box is wrong also?  Or the syncrhos are worn for reverse?  I had that same issue in my car, but then I just got a used/rebuilt one and the grind was gone, but now I have a slight grind downshifting into first and have to come to complete stop to put into first.

Reverse synchros?  :smilielol:

1974dodgecharger

see if he is listening..... :lol:

noticed I blame shifter box too.... :icon_smile_big:

John_Kunkel


The shifter isn't gonna cause clashing in Reverse, it's a clutch problem.

I would check the clutch release directly at the disc if possible; with the pedal on the floor you should have at least .060" clearance between the disc and the flywheel and the disc should be free to turn.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

RAC95054

Thanks for all the responses, everyone.  It sounds like I need to do a little more investigating/experimenting.  I would hope my clutch isn't worn out, since it only has about 3000 miles on it (and not overly hard ones).  The clutch pedal has some play, but not a lot.  It's not overly stiff either.  And it's the original/correct shifter and rods.  No mods.  And it was all working fine for the past few years until recently.

I can experiment with the adjuster to see if that helps at all.  I did read on the Royal Purple bottle that is says it's GL-4, GL-5, etc compliant, so not sure if that means it's really GL-5 (being above GL-4), but I'll give it a try.  Worst case, I can drain it and give the Redline MT-90 (GL-4 specific) a try, but I'd hate to waste the money if it's really not necessary.  I'll give the RP some test time first.

And again, if anyone has a recommendation for a place out West to handle A-833's, or any other location, I'd appreciate it.
Play: Work that you enjoy doing for nothing.   -Evan Esar

c00nhunterjoe

If it says gl5 compliant then you are wasting your money.

John_Kunkel


Not only wasting money but using the wrong lube, GL5 isn't for use with synchros because its coefficient of friction makes the synchros slip when they need to grab.

Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.


John_Kunkel


"The best there is" is highly debatable.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

c00nhunterjoe

Quote from: John_Kunkel on October 31, 2014, 12:52:55 PM

"The best there is" is highly debatable.

X2..... cheaper is not always better. However, that stuff is not much cheaper then redline..... so i would spend the extra couple bucks and have a smooth shifting trans.

1974dodgecharger

Everything is debatable, but that shit is better than the gl5 he has been putting in.  Debate that one....

c00nhunterjoe

Quote from: 1974dodgecharger on November 02, 2014, 12:42:45 PM
Everything is debatable, but that shit is better than the gl5 he has been putting in.  Debate that one....

There is nothing to debate about. Gl5 is not meant for the manual trans syncros in an 833. That is a fact.

1974dodgecharger

Quote from: c00nhunterjoe on November 02, 2014, 01:46:33 PM
Quote from: 1974dodgecharger on November 02, 2014, 12:42:45 PM
Everything is debatable, but that shit is better than the gl5 he has been putting in.  Debate that one....

There is nothing to debate about. Gl5 is not meant for the manual trans syncros in an 833. That is a fact.

EXACTLY.....