Got a question about the electronic ignition and coil, HELP ELECTRICAL FOLKS!

[71 RT]

I have a really dumb question about my coil.  I am trying to convert to the electronic ignition.  After installing the new distributor, voltage regulator, orange box and resistorthe car did not try to fire off.  I know I am getting gas and compression.   I doublechecked the connections, and then got out the old test light.  I had power to the resistor, and to the distributor.  When I checked the coil, I had power to the positive side, but I also had power to the negative side as well.  this did not sound right.  Am I wrong?  SHould I show power to both sides of the coil, or does that indicate a bad coil, or bad Electronic Ignition module?  Any ideas out there?  Are there any easy tests I can try to se if the coil or module is workng?  Sorry for the dumb question, but this is my first experience with electronic ignition, and I am at a loss.  Thank you for your time. 

[71_deputy]

71-- yes you could show light on on your test as the voltage will go thru the coil- coil at that time is not grounded via the ecu.

as you test it this way on the neg. side of the coil- have someone try to start the car- if the light blinks- ecu is trying to fire the coil.
if not- check to see if all connections are good, ecu is grounded ( no paint underneth the mounting bolts ) - pull the main coil wire and try the 1/2 trick to the engine as you are starting up to see if there is a good, small, no spark condition!!!


John Mac

[Bob74Charger]

71 - I have the same kinda problem and it's been kickin my behind for 3 weeks now. I'm getting no spark from my coil to cap wire, I've replaced the ballast resistor, the coil, and most of the wiring to the ECU. I'm not getting any power to my ECU is what I gathered after I did the volt test on the #2 pin on the ECU connector. I replaced all the wiring from the ignition switch thru the bulkhead to the ECU and to the resistor and I still am SOL. I did the ground test on the ECU and that was SAT. Everything has BEEN REPLACED BUT FOR SOME REASON NO POWER!!! I just bought this 74 two months ago and it looks like the guy that had it before me tried to hook up a push button start but then gave up and just grounded all the wiring he used for that endeavor. I hate to think that it's my neutral start switch because it's cold out and I don't wanna have to get underneath this beast (I don't have a garage) while there's snow on the ground. Hopefully I'm just retarded and my wiring skills are crap, but then again I've tested for continuity everywhere. Sounds like I'm worse off than you when it comes to wiring, huh?

[NHCharger]

There has been a lot of threads on moparts in the past year about the orange box from MP being junk right out of the box.

[71_deputy]

Bob- you are trying all these tests while the engine is trying to be started???  make sure there is power feeding the ign. switch. if there is no power to it nothing will be right- sort that out first!!

John Mac

[71 RT]

Thanks for the help, but I still do not know if there should be power to both the positive and negative side of the coil???  Still not gettting spark, I am starting to think my orange box might be junk, right out of the box!

[NHCharger]

I just came up from my shop. I checked my 71/383 and 72/318 both of which I converted to MP electronic ignition. With the key in the off postion and in the on postion my test light showed power at both sides of the coil.

[Bob74Charger]

I think I may have found my problem. Sorry 71 rt I have no solution to yours and I feel kinda bad for piggy backing your thread for my problem. Anyway there are four connections to the ignition switch: a red, brown, black, and blue. I am not getting full continuity in any of them coming out of the steering column. I've traced all of them thru the bulkhead and all seem fine. I'm trying to get inside to the actual ignition CYLINDER so I can appease myself of the condition of the wires leading to it but I can't figure out how to remove the section of the steering column. I've taken the wheel off and all the wiring for the blinker and hazard, etc. The section that houses the gear indicator. It's free to rotate but there's some type of ball bearing that's connecting the actual rod to the section and I can't figure out how to remove it. F.

[Bob74Charger]

Here's a pic of the section I can't figure out how to get off

[Nacho-RT74]

that piece is stuck with the snap ring on to the column shaft that keeps the bearing in place... remove that ring and with be able to remove the housing with bearing...

[Bob74Charger]

Okay - how do I get to the snap ring?

[Nacho-RT74]

if you want to do it right, there is a special plyers to remove the snap ring, hooking on the eyes end holes, opening it to release it from the shaft groove.

The other way is just pulling it with a tiny plain screwdriver. The snap ring will open alone and released it from shaft. Will need some care but works without problem

[Nacho-RT74]

pic where to attach tools to release the snap ring.

You can use two screwdrivers to make it easier pull it out on both sides of ring at same time.

Becarefull with snap ring because if you make it with screwdrivers will jump to ANYWHERE LOL... also becarefull with shaft groove edges. Groove edges must be straight with not dented areas, because in a future snap ring could it be released alone allong the shaft and bearing and column will have a play there. I'm talking in my own experience.