Disc brake lines wich ones?

[squeakfinder]

I've started putting front disc brakes from a 75 Dart on my 68. I have the calipers mounted toward the back with the bleeder valve and line hook up on the top. The hoses from the Dart are not going to work real well, there going to kink. I know there have been allot of threads on disc conversion but I can't seem to find an answer to my question. I was hoping something from another vehicle would bolt right in. This way I can order what I need from Napa and have this done in a couple of days. Also, is it necessary to replace the distributing valve? I know the proportioning valve needs replacing. And where is the proportioning valve located. Thanks!

[is_it_EVER_done?]

Flex hoses for a 73/74 Charger will solve your hose problem. As for the proportioning/distribution valve quesion, your distribution valve is the same, however if the car was drum only, you will need to pull a proportioning valve off any (pre 75) disk/drum car and install it on yours. This will require cutting and flaring the line for the rear brakes to install the proportioning valve which is located a few inches back of the distribution valve on early disk/drum cars..

If you are not changing the master cylinder, you will have to make sure you remove the residual pressure valve from the front brake portion of the M/C (if it has one installed). Plus you will have to check the brake fluid often as the drum M/C does not have the fluid capacity of a disk M/C. It will work fine, just make sure the fluid level is kept topped off.

[squeakfinder]

Sorry about the enormous picture. OK I'll check into the 73 74 Charger hoses. I've got the master cylinder for front disc brake and power brake booster on the car now. I'm a little confused on something. I've got a 75 Dart and 78 Dodge Magnum for parts cars. Would pulling one of the dist. valves from one of those cars solve my problems? I haven't found a proportioning valve on either one of these vehicles.

[is_it_EVER_done?]

In 75 to 76 they changed to a "combo" valve which has the proportioning valve built in. Unfortunately, to use one of these, you will have to cut each brake line to replace the fittings, as the combo valve uses different sizes (don't ask me why). This is quite doable, and I have done it frequently, but it is a pain in the butt!

As I pointed out, to find a "stand alone" proportioning valve that will work with the lines, distribution valve, fitting sizes, and layout that you have, you will need a pre 75 to 76 proportioning valve, or an aftermarket adjustable valve. If you go to the JY, don't just look for Mopars (for the valve) as most early Fords, AMC's, and others had the same unit.

Since you have a disk brake specific M/C, you can ignore my suggestion to check for a residual pressure valve. As for the proportioning valve, I had a few pics saved on my computer for "location/appearance" use, but I guess I didn't transfer them the last time I upgraded, so hopfully someone else will have a photo of what you need.

[squeakfinder]

Thanks for clearing that up on the combo valve. The seperate proportioning valve sounds like the way to go.

[bull]

You can also try the 15" 1980 St. Regis hoses. Two of them cost me $30.98 at Napa. A Wilwood Proportioning Valve cost me $42.50 and I installed mine without any cutting. Pic below.

Since you have a disk brake specific M/C, you can ignore my suggestion to check for a residual pressure valve.

You will need a residual pressure valve to maintain pressure on the rear brakes if they are going to remain stock. That or get new rear wheel cylinders with cup expanders. I got my 10 psi res. valve through Wilwood also, $16.46 (it's the red thing). There's blue one too but it has a lower pressure setting and won't work on our cars. Make sure you get the 10 psi valve and install it inline between the rear brake line and the prop. valve.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WILWOOD-ADJUSTABLE-BRAKE-PROPORTIONING-VALVE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43956QQitemZ8044286241QQrdZ1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-WILWOOD-10LBS-RESIDUAL-VALVE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34199QQitemZ4620198979QQrdZ1

Here's my prop./res. valve setup:

[squeakfinder]

The combo valve on the left is from the 75 Dart, the dist valve on the right is from my 68 Charger. The threads seem the same to me. Any reason why this wouldn't work?

[squeakfinder]

Thanks bull. I love your avatar. I ordered brake lines for a 73 Charger today from Napa. They should be in today. To me, the proportioning valve from the Dart looks like a direct bolt in. I guess I'll find out the hard way.

[is_it_EVER_done?]

The combo valve will work fine, but unless the ones that came on Darts are different than all the others (which I highly doubt), you will end up having to change over some of the fittings. You can get a double flaring tool, and mini tubing cutter from Harbour Freight for about $15.00 or so.

[johnjb]

I am doing the same type of conversion.  1970 Charger drum, using a 1975 Valiant disc brake setup and the "combo" valve shown in the picture.  I have not started yet, but appreciate any update on progress and any problems encountered---brake lines fit to the "combo" valve and etc.
Thanks, John

[squeakfinder]

John

I got the combo valve to bolt right in. The threads are the same. I had a little problem getting the brake hose to seal on the passenger side caliper. Put new copper crush washers on (two per side?) twice before it would stop leaking. I have to admit that the calipers are used along with the brake pads. I'm thinking of taking the larger caliper's and rotors off the 78 Magnum XE that I have and seeing how or if there going to work. That's the reason I'm hesitating on the new calipers and pads. I noticed a slight improvement in the cars stopping ability. But I think once I get new parts on there it should be better.

[squeakfinder]

http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html


John-

Check out the link above if you haven't allready. I'm betting just about everybody on this site thats done a disc brake swap have read it.

[squeakfinder]

I can't seem to do PM's at the moment John. So..

If you look at the picture I posted of the combo valve in the previous post the right side of the valve would be toward the front of the car.
It mounts to the inside of the framerail below the master cyl. That line going into the very top of the valve go's up to the master cyl. and ties into the rear of the MC. That is for the front brakes. Dropping down to the right of the combo valve that short line you see go's under the frame rail and to the driver side steer tire. Drop down one more to the right and that line go's strait up to the front plug of the MC. That's for the rear brakes. Moving to the top left I don't have brake lines in the valve but the top opening go's to the passenger side front tire. And the opening to the bottom go's to the rear brake's. Doe's this make sense?

Larry

[johnjb]

Thanks Larry, what brake lines did you end up using? I thought you were having problems with the original ones?  Any picture of the backside showing the brake line?
Thanks, John

[squeakfinder]

73 charger brake lines The dart lines were to long with the calipers mounted to the rear. I'll try and get some pictures posted shortly.

[johnjb]

the calipers on the 75 Valiant are mounted on the front.  Were the Darts originally on the back or did you change them.  If I mount on the front, I may need the extra length of the original hose.

[squeakfinder]

The caliper will hit the sway bar if mounted to the front. They are mounted on the front originally on the a body's and they can be mounted to the front on are Chargers but not without some modification's to the sway bar. I believe there is a kit out there to relocate the sway bar, and I think it might involve using a different sway bar altogether. The other option witch is what I chose was take the passenger side brakes and mount them on the driver side, driver side brakes mounted on passenger side. This won't effect the steering geometry.

[squeakfinder]

Heres a couple more images.

[squeakfinder]

......... .....

[johnjb]

Larry, thanks for the pictures, really helps, but I have a 70 charger and thought the sway bar was not an issue for the 70 model, but only for the 68 and 69 which have an interference problem???

[squeakfinder]

Oh ok, that could be. That would probably change what you need for brake hoses if you mount them to the front. Maybe somebody on here thats got a 70 thats done this brake swap could chime in. So much of the cars are the same from 68 to 70 I guess I took it for granted the front suspension was the same. Maybe the Valiant hoses will work if the calipers are mounted to the front.