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upper control arms

Started by Dreamcar, May 22, 2014, 11:01:58 AM

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Dreamcar

If the front of my car is on jack stands, can i remove the upper control arms without dismantling the entire suspension? I want to paint the area where the upper control arm bolts in, but i want to be able to put it back quickly so j can move the car around until i committ myself to the entire front end rebuild. Thanks
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

moparchris

Yes, you can remove teh arms without taking the suspension apart.

Dreamcar

"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

Charger-Bodie

You will need to relieve the pressure from the torsion bars.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

Dreamcar

"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

John_Kunkel


If the jack stands are under the lower control arms and the upper control arms aren't touching their rubber bumpers, no need to relax the torsion bars.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

ACUDANUT

Quote from: John_Kunkel on May 23, 2014, 01:56:41 PM

If the jack stands are under the lower control arms and the upper control arms aren't touching their rubber bumpers, no need to relax the torsion bars.

x2

I would wait and do the whole suspension at once. It's a PITA.

Dreamcar

Thanks for all the advice. I've never dealt with a torsion bar suspension before.
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

b5blue

The bolt in the lower control arm adjusts the bars, you MUST unload the torque. It's easy to do if they are not real rusty and easy to re-adjust going back together.  :2thumbs:
It's one of the things I like about the B Body front suspension. 

Dreamcar

Ok, so if i unload the torque, do i need to place the jack stands under the lower arms or does it matter?
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

fy469rtse

I would put the cars frame safely on the stands, you can jack up the bottom arms to re connect everything , as said undo those torsion bar adjusters, if you going to paint behind uppers arms , renew the bushes and upper ball joints now then these arms can stay in

b5blue

Quote from: Dreamcar on May 23, 2014, 04:05:24 PM
Ok, so if i unload the torque, do i need to place the jack stands under the lower arms or does it matter?
If the TB's are unloaded and your removing the UCA's you just need to protect the flexible brake lines from stress. Blocking with wood or whatever, I've even stuffed a tire/rim under them just to hold them up. You want to support the sub frames and front of the car.
  They reproduce the UCA's now and those come with new bushings and ball joints so for now you can just undo the bushing bolts and pull the arms away for paint. Later you could just replace the entire UCA's as a set when redoing the front suspension. (I have a set for when I change to disk brakes, they are well made and cheaper than buying all the parts and tools to change bushings/ball joints.)  :2thumbs:

Dreamcar

Quote from: b5blue on May 24, 2014, 07:31:57 AM
Quote from: Dreamcar on May 23, 2014, 04:05:24 PM
Ok, so if i unload the torque, do i need to place the jack stands under the lower arms or does it matter?
If the TB's are unloaded and your removing the UCA's you just need to protect the flexible brake lines from stress. Blocking with wood or whatever, I've even stuffed a tire/rim under them just to hold them up. You want to support the sub frames and front of the car.
  They reproduce the UCA's now and those come with new bushings and ball joints so for now you can just undo the bushing bolts and pull the arms away for paint. Later you could just replace the entire UCA's as a set when redoing the front suspension. (I have a set for when I change to disk brakes, they are well made and cheaper than buying all the parts and tools to change bushings/ball joints.)  :2thumbs:

The car doesnt have functionning brakes and all the lines will be replaced. I just need it to stay a roller for a little while yet.
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

b5blue

  Okay, I'd soak the brake line nut/hose/clip in a little PB Blaster and still be careful it's not stressed at the mounting tab from hanging. (For later when you undo them.) Lube the adjuster bolt before undoing so lube works into the screw threads as you back the bolt out and clean both bolt and threaded part while loose.  :2thumbs:
  At this stage of the game tiny little dabs of rust penetrating oil anyplace you may ever take apart later are a huge help as the oil works slow but make a big difference even years later.  :scratchchin:

Dreamcar

"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

Dreamcar

I managed to get the control arm off. Thanks gentlemen! And now i know how a torsion bar suspension works.
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

b5blue