Alternator Problems

[BubbaDuke]

I've had my car for about 5 years now.  I've replaced 3 batteries and 3 Alternators.  Just last year I replaced my Alternator.  This year once again my alternator I think isn't working.  My battery stopped charging.  What could be causing this. Please I need lots of help with this, im tired of replacing theses. 

[Mopar Nut]

A short somewhere?


Have you checked your voltage regulator? 

[Pete in NH]

Hi,

It looks like your car is a 69 from the picture. 69's were the last year for the old single field wire alternators and electromechanical regulators. Many 69's were upgraded to the newer two fields wire, electronic regulator set ups.  Do you know which your car is? The single wire field units have one green field wire and the alternator output wire.

Three alternators and batteries, something isn't right. Do you have a test meter to measure voltages? Once we know the type of alternator system on the car, some simple trouble shooting should get things working again.

[BubbaDuke]

Its a two wire alternator with electric regulator.  In the last few years I had to replace some of the wiring from the alternator to bulk head because it had melted.  Also ive replaced the alternator regulator once.  When I hooked up the alternator and tested it last fall, I was getting I think like 14+ volts on the battery.  The first time I replaced the battery, my alternator was putting out 17 volts.  I replaced the alternator regulator and it was fine after that. 

[Pete in NH]

Okay, I take it the battery is not being charged but, please put your voltmeter across the battery and confirm this. You should have 13.8 to 14.5 volts across that battery with the engine running and above idle.

Next question is what year alternator have you been putting on your car. For the two field wire electronic regulator system the alternator must be for a 1970 on up. Some rebuilt 1969 alternators have two field terminals but one is connected to ground and will not work properly. Some rebuilders are trying to adapt later alternators to earlier cars to keep their inventory down. But, it causes no end of headaches if you don't know what they have done. A true 69 alternator only has one field connection.

[Cooter]

Baring any kind of major alt./battle/wiring problems......

Keep in mind when a 'good' battery costs $140.00, that cheap ass turd with half the plates in at the local discount auto parts store will keep cropping out on you.

Stuff is getting cheaper and cheaper. We as Americans, the crack addicts we are for this sh*t, we show our buying power and purchase it every time. Then, we wonder why it is sh*t when we knew all along but were hoping against hope, it would we or out.

[tucknroll]

im having the same problems. so I need a 70 alternator for my 69?

[Dino]

im having the same problems. so I need a 70 alternator for my 69?

Unless you want to run a more modern alt and upgrade some wiring , yes get a '70 or up alt.  A 60 amp alt might be a nice option.

[Nacho-RT74]

IMHO, the upgrade is not the fix, is just an upgrade to a better charging system. That doesn't mean the old charging system shouldn't work correctly wit the actual pieces

Charging system can be upgraded to electronic regulator system, not a problem, but actually the problem is not being fixed. Not saying with the upgrade won't be automatically fixed but you won't ever know what it was the real problem.

As stated, is just an opinion.

[Pete in NH]

BubbaDuke,

when you say a two wire alternator, do you mean one output wire and one field wire or two field wires? Also, does electric regulator mean the Chrysler electronic regulator which is almost square in shape with a triangular shaped connector on the lower front? Pictures of the regulator and a close up of the back of the alternator would help if you're not sure.

Tucknroll,

There can be a few causes for the battery not charging and going through alternators, batteries and regulators. I'm still trying to figure out what BubbaDuke has in his car so I can help him trouble shoot it. It would be great if you would start your own thread so we don't get all tangled up between two cars. If you are trying to use the Chrysler electronic regulator you need a 1970 or up alternator. If that's what you're trying to do I can step you through the simple wiring changes.

Nacho,

You are absolutely right. Upgrading will not fix many of the problems in the charging system. There have been several posters here that have tried to use the electronic regulator with a single field wire alternator and that really causes even more problems. So, I'm not saying to automatically upgrade but I need to understand what is in the car now to offer any help.

[BubbaDuke]

Yes the regulator is a rectangle like with 3 prong plug in (triangle-ish).  The alternator has a blue wire that plugs into the top back, and a red and I think green wire on the bottom.

[Pete in NH]

Okay, you have the newer two field wire system that has been upgraded from the original 1969 system. The newer system is quite reliable. The one on my 71 is still running the original alternator and is on it's second voltage regulator in 43 years.

Many charging system issues in these cars can be traced to corroded or burnt bulk head connector pins. Chrysler really pushed the current ratings of these connector pins when new. After 40+years of  use and corrosion they can turn into a problem area. So, unplug the bulk head connectors and look for burnt or corroded pins that usually turn green with corrosion.

Also, the fusible link can corrode under that blue insulation and turn into a problem. If you have a voltmeter look for 12 volts battery voltage on the alternator output stud. If it's not there, something like the fusible link or connector pins are open in the charging circuit path. The ammeter could also be open or its terminals are loose.

You should also have 12 volts on the blue field wire on the back of the alternator with the ignition switch in the run position. These are a few areas to check out as to why the battery is not charging.

Let us know what you find as there are a few more test s you can do.

[BubbaDuke]

I will take a look at theses.  Thanks Pete for the help.

[68charger440]

I would suggest popping off the middle bulkhead connector and look for some toasted connections especially on the "J" and "P" connectors to and from the ammeter.  The burnt wires you had were a shot across the bow and should not be taken lightly.  When mine toasted the wires like yours did, it melted some wires together under the dash as well that intermittently caused a short which manifested itself as charging issues, burning out regulators and alternators until I found it.  If those "J" and "P" connections look charred then it is another shot across the bow, and even if it is not your root cause it should still be addressed.