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Better way to check air fuel mixture

Started by 66FBCharger, January 28, 2014, 08:02:55 AM

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myk

How do you go about installing the bung for the sensor anyway-just drill into the manifold and screw it in?  I'm guessing it has to be a certain distance/orientation from the head? 

Ghoste

I would put it further downstream in the exhaust.  About where the collectors are if you had headers.

myk

Quote from: Ghoste on January 30, 2014, 11:21:58 AM
I would put it further downstream in the exhaust.  About where the collectors are if you had headers.

Yeah I was reading about one of the more pricey kits we've been talking about here, and I think they mention 12" or so from the head, and the bung has to be at a 10* angle facing upward...

Dino

Screw in?  Aren't they supposed to be welded?
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Ghoste

The bung is welded in and then the sensor screws into that.

Dino

Quote from: Ghoste on January 30, 2014, 01:41:44 PM
The bung is welded in and then the sensor screws into that.

Ah that makes sense.   :2thumbs:
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Finn

That is actually not a bad price for a digital read out and two widebands. I might have to pick that up.

That's pretty much how much it cost me to have my EFI tuned last time anyway. Of course now they have self tuning EFI's that are much simpler than mine...  :RantExplode:
1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L

1974dodgecharger

Quote from: myk on January 30, 2014, 12:00:30 PM
Quote from: Ghoste on January 30, 2014, 11:21:58 AM
I would put it further downstream in the exhaust.  About where the collectors are if you had headers.

Yeah I was reading about one of the more pricey kits we've been talking about here, and I think they mention 12" or so from the head, and the bung has to be at a 10* angle facing upward...
Aem has a no weld bung, no complaints from google search

A383Wing

If you guys do this and run O2 sensors in each head pipe, you need to make 100% sure that you have no exhaust leaks before the sensor...if you do, it will suck air in the leak and give you a false reading

Ghoste

That would apply to all O2 sensor installs no?

A383Wing

oh yea...all are implied here.....

you would not believe how much of an effect it has on the sensor reading....we had a car that had broken bolts in the head and it had horrendous leak...check engine light was on...told customer that head had to come off and bolts be drilled out to cure the problem....he was not a happy camper...but he had to do it to get his license tabs

myk

I've never experienced an exhaust leak before. I'm assuming there's a loud ticking noise or something to indicate as such? 

Ghoste

Depends on the size.  :lol:  If you hear what sounds like one of those water sprinklers all the time but you aren't driving past them, thats a good sign.

myk

Quote from: Ghoste on January 31, 2014, 11:33:48 AM
Depends on the size.  :lol:  If you hear what sounds like one of those water sprinklers all the time but you aren't driving past them, thats a good sign.

Got a friend with a '76 Skylark that has a heavy ticking noise because he can't get the exhaust manifold to seal up right; I figure it can't get any worse than that condition...

Kern Dog

I have an AEM wideband setup in the Charger. This thing has really opened my eyes as to how far out of whack your fuel curve can be without even knowing it.
I used to guage my air/fuel ratio by the smell of the exhaust as well as the color. I looked at plugs too. I thought my car was running close to the ideal 14.7 at cruise and 13.0 at WOT......THEN I installed the guage and drove the car. I was miles off! The car was dipping into the 11.0 range at cruise and WOT. I've been tuning the car here and there with the guage in place and hope to get it dialed in. Each change to the engine affects the readings though...I added a Rev-N-Nator ECU and the numbers moved around. I added an H pipe and they moved again. each time I have to change jets, adjust the idle mixture screws, adjust the timing and idle speed.....

myk

Quote from: Red 70 R/T 493 on February 15, 2014, 12:54:18 AM
I have an AEM wideband setup in the Charger. This thing has really opened my eyes as to how far out of whack your fuel curve can be without even knowing it.
I used to guage my air/fuel ratio by the smell of the exhaust as well as the color. I looked at plugs too. I thought my car was running close to the ideal 14.7 at cruise and 13.0 at WOT......THEN I installed the guage and drove the car. I was miles off! The car was dipping into the 11.0 range at cruise and WOT. I've been tuning the car here and there with the guage in place and hope to get it dialed in. Each change to the engine affects the readings though...I added a Rev-N-Nator ECU and the numbers moved around. I added an H pipe and they moved again. each time I have to change jets, adjust the idle mixture screws, adjust the timing and idle speed.....

Yup, sensors are the only way to go if you're seeking a true tune.  A setup like yours is definitely on my to-do list...

Stretch

I've been thinking about picking up the Innovative Motorsports LM2. I have seen some good reviews and lots of bad reviews. Have any of you used or own the LM2? I would like to know if the bad reviews have more to do with operator error rather than quality of the product.

I have seen nothing but good reviews on the LM1 but it looks like the LM1 is no longer available. They do pop up used now and then but the sell for new lm2 prices.

Thanks
Jason
I may be schizophrenic but at least I have us!

375instroke

I got the Innovate wide band for our racecar, an '86 Mustang, which is fuel injected.  Includes the gauge, sensor, harness, bung, and different faces and bezels.  It also has an output to simulate the narrow band sensor the stock computer is looking for, and a data logging connection.  14.7 at idle and cruise, but at WOT, it was 10.3:1.  We had to pit for fuel 20 minutes earlier than the other cars we were up against.  Since we can't reprogram the computer, we dropped the pressure down, and it's 13.3:1 at WOT, and still 14.7 at cruise and idle, and no more black soot.  Still use too much gas.  Went from 360 gallons in 36 hours, to 140 in 14 hours at the last race.  I would have thought we'd use a lot less gas per hour.  Still, at least the ratio's correct now.

myk

Quote from: 375instroke on April 16, 2014, 11:49:09 AM
I got the Innovate wide band for our racecar, an '86 Mustang, which is fuel injected.  Includes the gauge, sensor, harness, bung, and different faces and bezels.  It also has an output to simulate the narrow band sensor the stock computer is looking for, and a data logging connection.  14.7 at idle and cruise, but at WOT, it was 10.3:1.  We had to pit for fuel 20 minutes earlier than the other cars we were up against.  Since we can't reprogram the computer, we dropped the pressure down, and it's 13.3:1 at WOT, and still 14.7 at cruise and idle, and no more black soot.  Still use too much gas.  Went from 360 gallons in 36 hours, to 140 in 14 hours at the last race.  I would have thought we'd use a lot less gas per hour.  Still, at least the ratio's correct now.

Wow, that Innovate set paid for itself.  I will definitely have to put this set on my list for consideration...

green69rt

 :scratchchin:  Think I'll save this thread for later.  Good info!

mhinders

Personally I like the Innovate MTX-L wide band lambda sensor. I can run it standalone with it's own analog gauge, I can connect it to a laptop for data display, data logging, reprogramming, I can connect it to the engine management system for supplying data to the ECU.
I addition, with the laptop, I can re-program it for different fuels...nitro, ethanol blends, gasoline etc. etc.  :2thumbs:
Martin
Dodge Charger 1967, 512 cui, E85, MegaSquirt MS3X sequential ignition and injection