Which clutch do you use/recommend?

[Wakko]

Well, one of the items on my "Ways to spend tax return money" list is a CLUTCH.  I'm tired of having to shut the engine off to put it in reverse and I'm tired of trying to spin the tires and spinning only the clutch.   Car has a warmed over 440 with street tires (no drag radials) and it MAY see the track once, but probably never will.  My local Charger buddy has a Centerforce Dual Friction and he loves it (I haven't driven the car yet to see how I like it).  I do drive the car alot and we have traffic issues, so I can't have something that's going to be a nightmare to use on the street.   While it's apart, should I do anything to the tranny or to the rest of the car?    Any thoughts appreciated.

[Chryco Psycho]

I will NOT use CForce clutches , on a fast shift they will often stay on the floor , better hope you have a rev limiter , they are a lot more hype than actual performance , the diaphrgm design is a poorer design & is generly used in low troque /higher Rev applications
for a lot less $$ you can get a Good Mcleod Borg & Beck Style OR a B&B Long style clutch 

[Wakko]

First off I love that you're up late like me so I don't have to wait for the day shift guys to answer my questions.

Who is a good supplier for those clutches?  Are there options or variances or is "Clutch for a 23 spline '69 Mopar tranny" good enough?  Are they all 11"?  What's the diff between Borg/Beck style and Long style? 

Edit:  I was just looking on Brewer's site, I see they have a few different McLeod clutch kits available, as well as the backup switch for $15.    $49 for an over center spring...ouch!   

[Rubberduck]

I have a Sachs clutch in my Charger. It works great.
But I dont´t know if Sachs has clutches for a 440, mine is a 383.

Mario

[Wakko]

Would they be different?

[Troy]

Here's the one I have (and a handy linky):
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,5188.msg116039.html#msg116039

You'll definitely need to know which size bellhousing/flywheel you have. A Street Twin requires a special pressure plate and flywheel and it's all sold as a set (for around $900 I believe). Clutches can be purchased anywhere so shop around at Summit and Jegs first to see if there's a special.

Troy

[70sixpkrt]

I ended up getting my clutch from www.bobmazzoliniracing.com

[Wakko]

Great thread, thanks for the link, Troy.  Guess I'll have to tear it apart and see what I have in there first.  I spoke to Brewer's today briefly, they seem to know what they're doing.  I can get both rubber boots as well, but they're also really expensive. 

[Troy]

Which rubber boots? Check Ehrenberg's (rehrenberg) eBay stuff for the fork boot. There's a clutch rod boot, an "hump" boot, and a console shifter boot as well so I'm not sure which other one you mean.

Brewer's definitely knows what's going on and still cheaper than Passon. They'll have everything. Many of the more "normal" parts (clutches, bearings, hardware and linkages, etc.) can be found at the online retailers cheaper too.

Troy

[Wakko]

Sorry, I meant the console boots.  My lower boot is completely gone and the upper boot is torn.  When I get on it (considering my passenger header leaks) the inside fills with exhaust.  Not cool. 

I've never done a clutch before, fortunately my local Charger buddy (LCB) has.  What's the hardest part, actually R/R ing the transmission itself? Even if I don't have to completely remove it I figure it's a good idea to get everything mocked up and make sure it's correct and adjusted correctly.

[Chryco Psycho]

there are different lb ratings for the clutches & the Long style has lighter pedal pressure
there are 2 clutches that are similar but totally different , the 69 11" with 143 tooth flywheel & the 70 11" [really 10.95"] that uses a 130 tooth flywheel , these will not interchange so make sure you know what you have before ordering a new clutch

[Chryco Psycho]

make sure you change the release brg