Ok, need help with the Alternator Upgrade

[denver98]

Ok, I want to do the Alternator so often talked about on this board.  I thought I had read enough topics to understand how to proceed, I was wrong.  I need help!  I have the following parts to install, 90amp alternator for an '89 dodge van, 318cid, voltage regulator and pig tail.

I have the wires I have and where they are connected do not match Nacho's diagram.  What I have is shown below.  What I need to know, in detail, is what to do with each of the wires, i.e. which get spiced into and where, which get connected to the pig tale (I get where it green wire goes)  and what to do with all remaining existing wires. 

Thanks for the help, I'm an electrical novice.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

first to make it work, from this:



wired just right like this:




Just need to run a new wire, blue from splice up to alt brush. Green existing wire will be spliced into reg pigtail.

then, to handle the extra power by the enw alt ( if wishing to keep the ammeter working ):
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html

[denver98]

I have printed both of your diagrams, but you show a wire going from the resistor to the + lead of the coil, that's not where my coil wire comes from, it comes from the blue wire on the right side of the voltage regulator. 

Let me ask you this, is all I need to do is:

1) add a blue wire from the alt to the blue wire from the regulator and;
2) add two 10 gauge wires from alt to starter relay;
3) put all original wires back on in proper locations?

Thanks

[Nacho-RT74]

ok, yes it could be... that's why I'm based on post 70 color codes.... up to 69 the brown wire coming from ign switch ( ing 2 ) to ballast got spliced into a blue wire running to coil.

The other wire still remains blue ( coming from ign 1 at switch )

you don't have to touch anyhing of the coil wire or ballast.

you need:

the actual blue wire arriving to regulator, still will arrive to regulator ( at new pigtail ) AAAND at the same time from that same splicing point run a new wire up to one brush

the actual green wire you already had running to one brush will splice on to the regulator pigtail also green wire.

Now you'll have a full positive lead coming from ign switch feeding one brush and one regulated negative coming from regulator. regulator needs to be GOOD CHASSIS GROUNDED.


With that you'll have a working charging system.

Now, to keep safe the bulkhead, run parallel wires to the existant black from alt stud up to ammeter, and red from ammeter to starter relay ( with a fuse link in the middle ), through firewall. 10 gauge is fine.

No need to get rid off the existant black and red wires, but yes a checking and service them... clean, tight, plugs and terminals conditions etc...

[b5blue]

   So that Alt. has a normal pully on the front?

[denver98]

First, I would like to thank those that post such useful information on this site.  I just finished the up-grade and I'm now getting 15.3v at the battery at idle with EVERYTHING on!!  I still have a couple of items to clean up and then I will post pictures.

The next step will be to get the amp meter working. 

Thanks,
-Scott

[b5blue]

Just finished mine yesterday also. 

[elacruze]

First, I would like to thank those that post such useful information on this site.  I just finished the up-grade and I'm now getting 15.3v at the battery at idle with EVERYTHING on!!  I still have a couple of items to clean up and then I will post pictures.

The next step will be to get the amp meter working. 

Thanks,
-Scott

mmm...15.3 is a lot. Be certain that you don't go any higher as the revs go up, or when you turn accessories off. If you wired it wrong you could be bypassing the regulator and making way too much voltage.

[Nacho-RT74]

[b5blue]

Mine read high till the battery got back to full charge from cranking then settled down nicely (my amp gauge works fine). I charged my battery (and it's fairly new) prior to starting the car, did you?  Keep in mind it takes about 14.5 volts to charge up a battery and the 12 volt rating is nominal. Reality is more like 13.5 operating voltage for accessory's like wipers and headlights peak performance. What kind of meter and where did you take readings?

[denver98]

A quick follow up.

After driving the car around town for a couple of days, the voltage at the battery drop to 14.5 at idle with most everything on.  This has got to be the best upgrade I've done on the car to date. 

Thanks!!!

[jpsycoboy5]

Does that alternator bolt up or did you have to mod stuff? I have a 440 out of an rv that I'm dropping in do you know if it'll bolt. To my engine

[A383Wing]

I'm curious about that also

[mauve66]

what pulley did you use?? i have a 140 amp from a truck but will have to swap the sepentine pulley to a gm type pulley i'm told, somehere did this years ago but i still haven't gotten around to doing it yet

[Charger RT]

here is a V belt pulley for a denso
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nippondenso-Denso-Alternator-Single-Groove-Pulley-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem51936e31feQQitemZ350365823486QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

and here is a regulator to convert the denso to a 1 wire unit.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230375667283&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

and if you are really daring get a junk yard unit. these are almost bullit proof alternators. the only thing that usually fails is the brushes wear out at 150,000 miles. the bearings are hugh and the diodes are top notch.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330357714694&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

a 90 amp unit has a diameter of 4 7/8 inches and the 120 amp is 5 3/8 inches in diameter
Tim

[myk]

Does that alternator bolt up or did you have to mod stuff? I have a 440 out of an rv that I'm dropping in do you know if it'll bolt. To my engine

I had to fashion my own spacers.  I also had to take off the plastic shielding that come on the 'alt body.  I then had to grind down an output stud on the 'alt.  Another important thing to do is run a heavy gauge wire from the 'alt to the starter relay-don't let your crappy stock 60's wiring handle all that power 'cause it'll fry it-I used two 8 gauge wires, fused it, then connected it to my starter relay.

You guys have got to do this 'mod, there're quite a few threads dedicated to it.  Here's one of the best ones: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,19802.0.html  

Your car will run and generally operate better with the increased voltage...

[myk]

here is a V belt pulley for a denso
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nippondenso-Denso-Alternator-Single-Groove-Pulley-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem51936e31feQQitemZ350365823486QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

You know, I'd say that the pulley on my 'alt is just a little too big resulting in a slight voltage drop at idle; I wonder if this thing is just the right size for my application...

[A383Wing]

there were 3 pulley sizes for the alternators....get the smallest one to spin it faster...2-1/2" I think...I'll have to measure mine I have here unless somebody else has the measurement

[mopar0166]

first to make it work, from this:



wired just right like this:




Just need to run a new wire, blue from splice up to alt brush. Green existing wire will be spliced into reg pigtail.

then, to handle the extra power by the enw alt ( if wishing to keep the ammeter working ):
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html

I hate to repeat a question but withh the two diagrams used above. i went froma 318 with a constannt voltage  to t 440 with a new elcto ( stock appearing voltage regaultor that is similar to the first diagram.  now since im running a MSD 6al box i tox out the ballast rsistor.  and am having poer surge issues above idle.  im thinking about going bck to the constant volatge but how should that be wired witha  6 al box . 

[mopar0166]

guess i should add its a 69 charger with a dual field alt.  i have one feild grounded.  Any advice would be greatly greatly appreicated

[mopar0166]

Is this correct

[John_Kunkel]

Yes, tying the IGN 1 and IGN 2 wires together insures constant switched power to the MSD.

[Dino]

I have the same alt and the battery bolt needs to be cut so as not to hit the head.  I needed another slider bracket (a/c) car to make it fit but that's about it.

[mopar0166]

ok , im gonna give that a try.  been having a power surge issue with the normal vr setup with msd .  Prior i had a constant vr on my 318 to installing BB  , never had an issue.   

we will see