Removing AC clutch

[Zeroman]

Hello all,
I need to replace the shaft seal on my AC compressor. In order to do that I need to remove the clutch first. I rented a clutch removal kit from O'Reilly's but can't figure out how to use it. As you can see I was able to thread it in a bit but then the whole clutch starts spinning. Am I supposed to leave the belts on to hold it?

Thank you,

[Tilar]

That doesn't look like the right one, but if it is you thread the outer part of that tool into the clutch first, then the center bolt is used to push on the shaft which will pull the clutch off the compressor... Providing you removed the retaining nut that holds the clutch on. 

[Pete in NH]

Hi,

I bought a clutch removal tool years ago, I think it was for a GM A-6 compressor but it works on the Chrysler RV-2. It easier to take out the center bolt holding the clutch to the compressor shaft if you leave the belts on and power up the A/C clutch. That way the belt drag keeps the thing from spinning. The factory bolt has a nylon locking strip, if you reuse the old bolt put some Locktite on it.

As Tilar said, back that center screw out and thread the outer part into the clutch hub first. And yes, check that the threads on the puller match up to the threads in the hub. When you get the clutch assembly off watch out for the small woodruf key on the shaft, don't lose it.

You can replace the compressor shaft seal with the compressor still mounted in the car but, it is easier on the bench. The system needs to be discharged so you might as well check the oil level in the compressor.

[John_Kunkel]

You need to rig up something to keep the clutch hub from spinning when you tighten the removal tool. The factory hub holding tool has pins that hook in the three or four holes in the hub.

The threads in the hub are 5/8"-11 so a common bolt can be used to remove the hub.

[Zeroman]

I thank all three of you for your help. I ordered the clutch holding tool from amazon but for some reason my clutch has 4 holes in a square pattern whereas every single holding tool I found had three studs in a triangle pattern and also the holes were smaller then the studs on the tool. I was able to flip it around using the threaded side of the stud and hold it in just 2 holes of the 4 holes

Pete along with the tool I also ordered a clutch removal tool for the GM A-6 but when it arrived it was way to big. Based on the chart that came in the kit I rented I think it would be a removal tool for a GM DA-6 HR-5 V5. I have done no research into this I just happened to notice that both the RV2 and DA-6 called for the same removal tool whereas the A-6 was a different one. I ended up just using a 5/8-11 bolt and it worked great.

My last question now, I am hoping one of you will tell me I can reinstall it by simply placing it back onto the shaft and using the original bolt that threads into the shaft just suck it back onto the shaft until it stops? And yes Pete, I will put some red Locktite on the bolt.

[Pete in NH]

Sorry for the mis direction on the GM A-6 tool, I bought the clutch tool well over 30 years ago and I thought at the time it was for an A-6. So much for trusting old memories!

It's been a while since I've had a clutch off an RV-2 but again relying on an old memory I'm pretty sure I pulled the clutch back on with the center bolt. When replacing the shaft seal make sure everything is well covered with oil. My system is still running R-12 so it would be 525 mineral refrigerant oil. The last seal I replaced was a carbon cartridge type and I believe the instructions said to soak it over night in oil. But as I said that was many years ago. One thing for sure is you never install them dry.

[Daytona R/T SE]

Back when these were just used cars that we bought for $500 and actually drove them...

I had to change the a/c clutch on a couple of my '72's back then.

I would just take out the center bolt, shove a pry bar between the clutch and the body of the compressor and give the pry bar a good, quick whack with the palm of my hand.

Pops right off.

Crude, but back then these cars were just cars.

[71 SE3834V]

I have the 4 hole clutch also. I don't understand the need for the holding tool. Don't you just thread the outer part of the puller in then put a wrench on it to hold it and thread the inner bolt in and wrench it in? At least that's what I remember how I used my GM clutch puller back in the 80's.
So anyway....I tried to remove my clutch to clean & paint the compressor last summer. Got the loaner puller kit. None of the tools seem to thread in so I put it back on the shelf. Remember Pete?
5/8" bolt eh? I just happen to have one. It won't thread in more then half a turn. Looking at the clutch threads they look a little "flat". Do I need to tap out the threads? Dammit....the largest tap I have is a 9/16".

[Zeroman]

Pete thanks again for your quick and accurate response. You have helped me before on some projects and I've seen your postings on other forums. You a true asset to the Mopar community. No problem on that tool. I just sent it back, no questions asked.

Daytona I like your idea, it sure would have saved me some aggravation. The problem is I'm finding these clutches hard to find so I wanted to reuse mine. I checked my local auto parts stores, nothing, searching the internet I was able to find one on ebay for $175, I finally found one at Summit for $125. I bought it and am going to save it. Hopefully these two will last my lifetime. Note: the compressor itself seems much easier to find. I found many rebuilt ones.

71 SE383, I'm no expert on this stuff but I can tell you that when you screw the 5/8 bolt in and it starts to grab the threads the whole clutch starts spinning. You need a way to prevent it from spinning otherwise the bolt will never push against the shaft. As for the tool I can't find one where the outer part is only 5/8s, that would make the inner threaded part very skinny.

[Zeroman]

SORRY FOR THIS, IT'S THE SAME AS ABOVE, I DON'T KNOW HOW TO DELETE IT!!!!

Pete thanks again for your quick and accurate response. You have helped me before on some projects and I've seen your postings on other forums. You a true asset to the Mopar community. No problem on that tool. I just sent it back, no questions asked.

Daytona I like your idea, it sure would have saved me some aggravation. The problem is I'm finding these clutches hard to find so I wanted to reuse mine. I checked my local auto parts stores, nothing, searching the internet I was able to find one on ebay for $175, I finally found one at Summit for $125. I have no idea what they used to cost back in the day but I doubt 175 bucks.  Anyway I bought the one from Summit and am going to save it. Hopefully these two will last my lifetime. Note: the compressor itself seems much easier to find. I found many rebuilt ones.

71 SE383, I'm no expert on this stuff but I can tell you that when you screw the 5/8 bolt in and it starts to grab the threads the whole clutch starts spinning. You need a way to prevent it from spinning otherwise the bolt will never push against the shaft. As for the tool I can't find one where the outer part is only 5/8s, that would make the inner threaded part very skinny.
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[71 SE3834V]

71 SE383, I'm no expert on this stuff but I can tell you that when you screw the 5/8 bolt in and it starts to grab the threads the whole clutch starts spinning. You need a way to prevent it from spinning otherwise the bolt will never push against the shaft. As for the tool I can't find one where the outer part is only 5/8s, that would make the inner threaded part very skinny.

Oh, you were talking about just using the bolt. I thought you were talking about when you use the puller tool.
Did the bolt thread in easily until it hit the shaft on yours?