Throttle cable questions

[Firetodd]

I have a 67 Charger with a 383 4bbl. My car is all original except for the Edelbrock 1406 carb. Today, I went to get the emissions done and VIN verification completed and the worker came and told me that my throttle fell al the way to the floor. Well I walked over and looked and saw that the throttle linkage had come off the carb. Specifically, the metal end of the cable had broken. Needless to say, I have to go back and redo the emission test.

Anyway, after turning the idle screw up and limping home at 15 mph, I now need to fix the cable. I was wondering where I can get a new cable or end of the cable? I have attached 3 pictures. Enjoy. It seems easy to find accelerator cables for 68 and up, but first gens not so much.

[ODZKing]

I found one in a yard for my 67 and keep it in the trunk after a friend had one break on the way home from Carlisle on year.
Length is the important thing (always is huh?).  in 67 - 2843750 Interesting thing is parts book says 2 and 4 are the same. And same as 440.  68 changes 2899339 but still the same as 440 in 68.
I am fairly ceartain I have a 68 cable on mine so as long as the length is OK, it will work.

Here is one on EBag but no idea if it is correct.  You'd have to ask him to measure it.
2843750 Interesting thing is parts book says 2 and 4 are the same.
I didn't bother posting the ones with the rediculous price. 

[tan top]

your edlebrock  carb linkage looks different to mine , don't know if its the angle of the picture    

[Firetodd]

I got this car about a month ago. The linkage was half backwards and had the kick down linkage rubbing the throttle return spring. I moved some of the linkage to better match the schematic from my book, but maybe I still have something off. I placed a bid on a throttle cable from eBay. So when I get it. I'll look over all my linkage and get it correct. Thanks guys!

[jlatessa]

Do you think you can tack weld a washer on each side of the old end
to solve your problem?

Is there enough room for the added width?

Joe

[Firetodd]

Joe,
Exactly what I will try today! I will try cold welding the washers to each side for a quick fix. Then when I get the other cable from eBay, I will have it in case this weld doesn't stay.

Todd

[John_Kunkel]

That Edelbrock 1406 needs the  Mopar throttle lever extension (Edelbrock 14-81) in order for the TP linkage to work correctly.

[Firetodd]

@John - I need this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1481/overview/ - Correct?

[tan top]

That Edelbrock 1406 needs the  Mopar throttle lever extension (Edelbrock 14-81) in order for the TP linkage to work correctly.

@John - I need this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1481/overview/ - Correct?

yep Johns right ,        had a study of your pictures again ,  !!   that's the part you need , you can see it on mine

[Firetodd]

Got the Edelbrock 1481 adaptor put on and replaced the throttle cable last night. My linkage now matches the book and works great! Now I just have to figure out why if I turn my idle down to 750 rpm, it really lugs and wants to die, especially in reverse. I thought maybe it was my air fuel mixture screws for the idle circuit or my timing.  I blew out the air fuel mixture screws and reseat them and turned them out for maximum rpm. I the set timing for maximum rpm. But if I turn the idle down it runs very rough. What should my idle speed rpms be?

[tan top]

what cam is in your engine ? converter ? have you got a vacuum gauge ?  whats the reading ? what timing you at ?

if there is nothing wrong inside your carb , maybe how it was set up before with the incorrect throttle linkage , the primary throttle blades were slightly open on idle ,    & now you put it back to as it should be , the idle speed & mixture is all out of wack   difficult to diagnose with out actually being there

[Firetodd]

Tan top,
I really appreciate you taking time to give me some advice and answer my noob questions! Yesterday I drove the car with the idle set at 1200 rpm and it drove amazing. Throttle response is awesome and smooth with no hesitation. However, once it's hot it really starts rough and I can hear the fuel boiling and percolating in the carb. I drove it to Napa to get some new vacuum hose and the old timer working there who owns a 68 charger told me that he thinks it sounds like someone upgraded the cam as it sounds deep and strong. I have no idea what is inside as I bought it a month and a half ago and haven't tore it open. Does this sound correct: I think I need a phenolic spacer to keep the fuel from boiling. I also think my choke is opening too quick to give it a rough start. One those are corrected, I should be able to dial the idle down so that it will run on the idle circuit.

To answer your question, I have 10 pounds of vacuum at 1100 rpm from the ported vacuum. I have my initial timing advanced to 18. Even with it running not as well as possible and with the 2.76 rear end that I have to changeout, I can still roast my tires, so the power is there.

Todd