instruments have me ready to scream!!! (Not really, but close)

[boydsdodge]

I have had this cluster out about half a dozen times trying to solve my problem, and to top it off now half the instrument lights don't work.
I started with a cluster that had dead gauges and clock, pulled it out, tested cleaned and adjusted all I could and had it working great.
Unfortunately the new voltage regulator I bought decided to stick in the full voltage position and fried all my new gauges.
Back out it comes and I source some new gauges from Classic Industries (Don't Use There Gauges )
Back out the cluster comes to install the new to me factory gauges I found at a swap meet, got it all working and now using a voltage limiter from RT engineering, all seems good.
But then the sun starts to set early nearing the end of the season and I need to turn on the head lights, I see I have no dash lights so I roll up the dimmer and cool I can see my instruments, but oh no why are my gauges all dropping as I roll my dimmer up?
So out comes the cluster to swap out the dimmer switch that checks out fine on the bench, back in it all goes.
No change still the gauges dim with the dimmer rolled up.
This repeats a few more times trying new head light switch and dimmers.
Last test today was using an old voltage limiter from an original cluster I had in my stash, it now climbs to just above half a tank on fuel gauge when all other Limiters read just above empty.
Oh ya, I also ripped one of my favourite flannel work shirts on the pretty chrome brake peddle bezel.

Does any one here have any thoughts on where I should look or what I should do?
If so please share with us all.
Thanks and if you need more info feel free to ask.
Thanks in advance
Jackson.

[Pete in NH]

Hi,

As I read through your description of what you have been through I had a little trouble following it. Are you saying your gauges still change readings when you change the dash lamp dimmer control? If so, something is connected where it shouldn't be, like a short between the dash lamp circuit and perhaps the gauge supply voltage from the gauge voltage regulator. Also, what happened to the RT Engineering regulator? Did it show the same issue of having the gauge readings change when you moved the dimmer control?

[A383Wing]

bad pin contact to circuit board on the back?

[b5blue]

 Read:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,37999.0.html

[Pete in NH]

One thought I had was since the gauge voltage regulator and dash lamps both get their ground through the dash printed circuit board, there may be a missing board ground. I wonder if the dash lamps may be finding a partial ground through the gauges.

[boydsdodge]

Thanks guys, had a good sleep with it rolling in my head all night.
Pete, yes with the RT limiter drops as you roll up the dimmer.
Now that you guys mention it about the lights getting power with the limiter and the lights being out, that seems to be where I should look.
I have another circuit board here but all the pins have been snapped off.
Can they be soldered back on?
Thanks.

[Pete in NH]

The printed circuit board ins grounded by its mounting screws to the dash frame casting. Make sure all the screws are in and tight. Also, check an make sure all the copper pads on the printed circuit board mounting screws are intact and making contact with the screw heads.

The pins can be soldered back on and repaired but it takes a fair amount of skill with a soldering iron. Too much heat and the copper pads will lift off the board and too little heat and you wont have a good connection. If you know someone who works on electronic equipment they might be able to help you. You said the pins are broken off. Do you still have the pins?

[Dino]

I resoldered my pins, although they seemed tight, they were not.  You can replace the pins with thin bolts, there's a thread of it somewhere around here on what to use.

They do sell new and improved circuit boards you may want to consider or try your luck on a used one on ebay to clean up.

When you test the new or repaired circuit board, bypass the dimmer so you can test the circuit board on its own.  You should have all lights on full.  When all works, but the dimmer back in circuit and see what happens, it'll make it a bit easier to isolate the issue.

Also check all the connections, make sure none of the terminals are hanging onto one strand of copper!  Once all tests out, use copious amounts of dielectric grease on all connections.

[boydsdodge]

I was able to solder my pins back on to the board, did a pretty good job but one, it is missing some of the copper from the board.
It all test good on the bench.
Removing the cluster from car to retest it, is there a procedure for bench testing a complete cluster? As in certain points to add power to test?
I'd like to test the complete cluster, as if it was installed in car with out installing again.
Thanks again for all your suggestions.
I'll keep you posted on the progress.