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door headlight switch

Started by frank1966, January 21, 2021, 12:11:37 PM

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frank1966

Hello,

iam trying to figure out how many amps the headlight motor door requires? I have an aftermarket wiring harness.  I have only a 3 prong relay, looks like i do not have the headlight switch prong - once lights turn on this should activate the motor. It looks like i only have the blue wire feed which i guess means i would need to use the switch only to open the doors.



frank1966

Thanks so if i use a Bosch relay no more push and pull switch, all controlled once i turn on the lights? Does one of those green wires go to the key in buzzer? i notice that on the 70 charger color diagram. It also looks like a headlight delay relay gets tied in there too which i don't have.

Nacho-RT74

Key in buzzer has nothing to do with hideaways, even being standard equipment. On 70 is related to the lights system due the way 70s was configured the key in and lights on buzzer system, but still both buzzers work somehow independently each other.

Just the lights on buzzer when optioned got a diode to prevent to buzz incorrectly being "feedbacked" because they were both make to work just by positive signal and constant negative on a single and common buzzer for both. This was reconfigured by 71 making them work by door ground allong with positives signals and individual buzzer for each function ( on 74 changed back to a single buzzer for all )

I have analyzed the 70 buzzers system in the past for a friend but I can't recall the details right now. I can get deep into that again if you need it and explain. Not a problem on that.

Headlight delay relay is optional too. Same as the previous case neither of both needs each other to work, but of course both are linked to the light green wire, since that's the signal to make them work both or not.

And yes, using the relays ( the Bosch 5 pins or the Ford unit being shown also on another thread ) will make the door work automatically, just like original system was designed on an affordable solution, since originals are illogically expensive. And I think repro relays, which weren't cheap either are not available anymore. The advantage of the Ford piece is they don't need to get a wired ground since is chassis, but Bosch relays are universal and can be found anywhere and cheaper.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

frank1966

Thanks Nacho-RT74! I don t have any buzzers, but i did find the headlight delay relay. I did not understand to purpose of the diode, makes sense!

frank1966

I noticed on the bosch relay pic that the batt source needs an inline fuse, what if the batt feed already has a fuse at the fuse box?

Nacho-RT74

If is fused you won't need an extra fuse of course. Actually originally it uses a circuit breaker because in a short will jump out but won't blown like a fuse so you wouldn't need to replace it after fix the issue what caused the blown, just let it cool down to use the system again.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html