C Pillar Crack

[markbob]

Hey all....

I have recently put the 69 Coronet on the road....

at some point, I will post all the photos of the restoration, but I have developed a problem with my body work...

the pix enclosed show the finished product....and a closeup of the L C-pillar....before the body work was done, and now after....

you cannot see it in the after pix, because of the light, but there is a small imperfection/crack forming along the rear, and bottom of the seam between the new quarter, and the original roof/c-pillar top....

the paint has not cracked and you cannot feel this with a finger, but you can see the light distort due to it from different angles....

all you body shop guys out there....please tell me this is not going to continue to crack, open up and have to be redone/repainted?

any thoughts, ideas?

thanks,

Mark

[Baldwinvette77]

im no expert but i've seen something similar on a plum crazy duster i was told by the owner it was caused the lead filler in the quarter panel (thats what he has, im assuming you do too) hes had the problem for maybe 20 years and it never came up through the paint 

[Patronus]

It's probably telegraphing the seam. It's just the different materials (steel,lead,bondo, etc.) shrinking or warping from changes in temperature and being driven. It's the first place I look on every car I check out. Not much you're going to do about it. You could plan to tape and shoot to the body lines. But...once you dig it out. Weld it. Weld a strip in to take up the low. Lead it. Fill it. And paint it...it could do it all over again...So...if its does physically crack you're gonna be welding. Or..you could just drive it and try not to look. How was the body work done there?

[Dino]

I'm very sorry but there's only one way to fix it like Patronus said.  Personally I cut out the entire seam to replace with a strip of metal so the entire c pillar is one piece.  At the least you'll have to clean up the seam and puta weld bead over it but a strip would be better.

[68Charger4me]

the first time I welded my seam, then used all metal putty, it telegraphed bad when it was out in the sun.  I had to redo it, bit the bullet and leaded the seam.

[DC_1]

Put on a vinyl top - problem solved! 

[tan top]

I'm very sorry but there's only one way to fix it like Patronus said.  Personally I cut out the entire seam to replace with a strip of metal so the entire c pillar is one piece.  At the least you'll have to clean up the seam and puta weld bead over it but a strip would be better.

best  plan 

[Patronus]

Tried it, still showed through.. I've seen a few Daytonas and 500's with the plug showing real bad. Some guys just can't see it. At this point I'm not sure how to guarantee it won't happen again. The areas showing are actually along the welds. We're on an E body right now with a new roof and quarters and I'm not sure how we're going to handle this one. I've tried it all... Many factory seams show the same. One side turned out great, the other...same shit. Right through the lead and everything. Too bad I hate vinyl...

[Dino]

Try my trick, cut out the entire seam and cut far enough to be on straight metal.  You'll have a gap between roof and quarter of about 3 inches or more going from the drip rail to the edge, leave the inside sail panel as is and leave about 1/4" of an edge on the c pillar to retain rigidity and the original line.  Now you need to make a piece that fits the gap like a glove.  Not always easy but so worth it.

I no longer use lead but I have when the customer asked for it due to originality.  I always enjoyed working with lead but it just doesn't make much sense anymore.

[markbob]

Hi guys

Thx for replies
I hope its just telegraphing a bit.... Which I can deal with
The friend who welded all the body panels in knows what hes
doing and the body shop that filled everything did a really nice
job with paint..... Just one thing is not right... 
He switched out my hood with one from a 68 coronet
It is the exact length width and heighth however the front
is flat amd goes straight a ross the grill
My original hood was blasted and epoxy coated and looked
like new so there were no problems wih it
Am taking car over to him tomorrow to discuss this
Mark

[68Charger4me]

looking at it again closer, it looks like the area in question is below the seam, almost looks like it was damaged after it was painted and they tried to blend it in

[Dino]

Looks like it originated at the seam but the filler below it cracked.  Seems there's too much flex in that pillar for some reason.

The hood thing is a bit scary, why the heck would they do that?  Not saying you should put your war shoes on but he'd better have a real good explanation.  I sure hope your hood is not on CL or something.

[Patronus]

Also been thinking the same. Cut that 3" out and fill. Interesting. It does make me question the lead. Its an art. I work with my twin and never has anything been as nice to have two people as that. I have this '56 that I would love to point up but it its going to fail..

OP: the car does look good. They all have their flaws, just enjoy it and look on to the next. You never do just one..

[markbob]

Thx for kind words everyone....

The hood issue is a bit complex....either the guy who did the bead blasting, or the body shop guy took the hood extension off the hood....neither one can find the part....I know I did not separate them, and that it was attached when I took it to the blaster....not sure whom is at fault here...

I didn't even know they were 2 separate parts....but am now looking around for one....

thanks again,

Mark

[JB400]

Post a pic of your hood if you can and don't mind.  69 Coronet hoods should be one piece.  Or, did this have the Airgrabber /Ramcharger air duct on the bottom?