In preparation for a front disc upgrade...

[Dino]

...I would like to have all the parts handy to do the swap.

The car has power drums from the factory.  Master cylinder has ports on the passenger side.

These are the parts I have so far:

Wilwood 140-2721-B front disc kit.
Inline tube front flexline kit.
Raybestos MC36283 with ports on the passenger side. 
GM/universal combination valve and safety switch wire. 
10# residual valve

I took pictures of the stock distribution block on the ds frame rail and I don't see how I'm going to do this.  There's no room in there!

Am I supposed to take half the car apart to get to that block?  The starter shield needs to come off but the torsion bar and steering stuff will still be real close to it.  That big orange thing in the middle is kinda in the way as well but I ain't pulling that!

I will need to either get new lines to fit the new combo valve or bend them to fit so 2 questions on that:  CAN I bend them to fit?  (if so what tool do I need) and are the fittings the same size for the universal valve and the stock distribution block?  What about the MC?  Are the fitting sizes the same?

The rear distribution block at one point had a leak as it shows on the axle.  Do I keep the stock block or should I get another one?  If so which is recommended?

Anything else I am missing?

[bull]

Well, it's going to be a pain.

As far as sizing goes you can tell the difference in the size of the fittings by the size of the hex nut on them. If one wrench fits both the old and new fittings they should be the same. When I work in tight spots I remove one obstacle at a time and then try to access the part each time rather than taking a bunch of stuff off right away. It wasn't easy but I had to get in there and do a little work fairly recently and found myself a little sore the next day.

You'll probably need to go to the parts store and buy or rent a flaring tool, a tubing bender and some generic tube along with a vareity of fittings. You'll screw some of them up through trial and error but I know no precise way to do it otherwise. I've bent many a brake line by hand without kinking it, you just have to take it easy. You can also use many items around the garage for templates to prevent kinking. I've used pipes, WD40 cans, my own wrist, etc., to make bends in brake lines.

Regarding the rear block there's really not much to them that would require replacement unless it's cracked. It's just a brass block with three inter-connected ports so the leak is most likely a loose fitting. The tube that holds the block does two things, it holds the block to the axle (obviously) and it's a breather for the diff. so there shouldn't be any brake fluid leaking from the center hole, unless the brass is cracked as I said before. Maybe get under there with some paper towels and watch what's going on while someone pumps the brakes up and holds the pedal down.

[Dino]

Thanks Bull that was very helpful.   

I will see if one wrench fits all.  I suppose I could use new lines to go from the combination valve to mc and wheels although I'd rather leave the line on the firewall in place.  The more I need to remove from the car, the closer I will get to that restoration pit.  Before I know it the whole car is dismantled and I'm stuck with a parts car. 

Good idea to get a piece of line and practice, way better than screwing up the ones I need.  I have bent a brake line in the past by pulling it over something round but this time I don't want to take chances. 

I checked the rear brass block last night and it does not seem to leak any longer.  I will however remove the block and lines, clean them up and replace if needed.  Better safe than sorry.

If the steering pump needs to be removed to give me access it may not be such a bad thing.  I have a lot of play in the steering wheel and it needs to be fixed.  Not sure why it has play but I can turn the steering wheel left or right about 10-15 degrees before the wheels move. 

[bull]

I hate to say it but you might end up with the snowball effect. A disc brake swap turns into "Well, I might as well get a Stage 2 Firm Feel steering box while it's all apart and I might as well fix that little exhaust leak while I'm there and that dipstick tube has a pretty good ding in it and hey, I might as well pull the other manifold and have them both ceramic coated," etc.

Sorry. Anyway, I tend to believe the newer brake lines are made from softer material because I remember trying to bend the stuff years ago and it kinked right away. However the stuff I bought a few years ago to add in a prop valve was super easy to bend and no hint of it trying to kink. Maybe it's just because it was new. But get yourself a bender if you're worried. They make life pretty easy. I borrowed one from Autozone last time I did some bending. They have a loaner tool feature where you get the tool(s) free for like 90 days. After that 90-day period is up if you haven't returned it they charge your card and you own it.

[flyinlow]

Not to discourage improvements, but... You can run into problems that take time to resolve, waiting for parts, etc.  Do you want to take your car out of service in the middle of the summer?

[Dino]

I am all too familiar with the snowball effect!   

I think the steering box might be okay,  the problem seems to be somewhere else.  If I recall, the po had it rebuilt shortly before I bought it.  Even if I do need to upgrade, steering is too important to ignore.  I drive this yacht at 55 on rural roads every day and I need to be able to swerve between the bunnies and the deer!  So far so good but at times I feel I need to start wearing depends!   

Thanks for the autozone tip, of all the parts stores that one's farthest away so I rarely go there.  I will now.

I realize this can take the car off the road for quite some time, hence me driving the pants off of it the last few days, but I have to start somewhere.

I could leave the brakes for now, that's not a problem.  But I do need to do those things that currently affect the car's handling like new shocks and the exhaust needs to be fixed as well. 

I always want to have my cake and eat it and thus I always want to drive it, but I can't do all the work and upgrades I want to do if I don't park it.   

I could start work now and hope to be done by fall, I love driving in fall.  Summers here are too hot and my a/c is not running yet so it's a time I don't even want to drive it.  I'll be in CA for 2 weeks in August though so time is tight if I want to run soon.

I shouldn't be greedy, the only time I don't drive it is winter.  This year I've been driving it since April 1st, no joke.   

I'll add the H pipe to the exhaust, swap the shocks and swap the trans speedometer pinion gear.  By the time that's over, I'm either ready to tackle the rest or throw in the towel.

I just finished the semester, will be gone 8/10 - 8/22 and start the new semester 9/4.  Tight but doable, even with issues albeit minor ones only.

[bull]

Well, good luck. And here's a pic to annoy you. Look at all that room!

[Dino]

Well, good luck. And here's a pic to annoy you. Look at all that room!

Oh sure!  Rub it in!   

[Dino]

Because I have the universal combo valve, I was focusing on fitting that one in the distribution block's place.  Seeing I can barely reach the block to begin with, it would make life a whole lot easier if the block could be replaced with a combo valve that has the same fittings and orientation as the stock block.

Will this puppy bolt in its place and hook up to the existing lines or is there another?  All I need is to replace the stock drum brake distribution block with a prop and metering valve.   

http://www.classicindustries.com/mopar/parts/MD2268.html

[bill440rt]

Dino, if it helps any I mocked up combo valve to M/C lines out of coat hanger & sent them to Bill @ Fine Lines who then bent them up out of stainless. Fit like a glove.
Bill now works for the Right Stuff. Great guy to deal with!

[Lord Warlock]

a whole brake line kit was only 180.00, and had the bends already in them.  Every time i mess with tubes they tend to kink on me.  Especially old connections. 

[Dino]

I may just buy the new kit, I'm not sure yet.  I would like to find a better combo valve though so I hope that mopar one is a direct bolt in.  If the ports are the same, I think it will be.  Or at least there will be little bending needed.