Have YOU rewired your Charger yet?

[Wicked72]

My car has been been on fire once already so im taking my precautions for sure. car was last tagged in the 80s

[FC7 V code]

My 70 had been sitting for a number of years and after getting it running for the first time since the mid 90's the under-hood harness to the coil/ballast resister/alternator went up in a cloud of smoke. The car had only been running for a few minutes when this happened...thankfully my Wife and Son were standing by with a fire extinguisher in case things got out of hand. It didn't require that as I hadn't tightened the positive battery cable down in case of something unforeseen like this happening. After I unhooked the battery it took the heat away quickly and I pulled the harness loose from the firewall connector. Examination of the harness revealed at least two wires with broken/cracked/no insulation on them that caused the problem. I ordered the new harness from Year One and that cured the under-hood issue. At that point, I was wondering what some of the other wiring looked like. A quick examination under the dash revealed multiple splices of many different wires, all made before I bought the car in 1983. It was a scary sight and I sprung for the Year One main wiring harness...costly but in my opinion worth every penny! Remember if you haven't looked your wiring over here's some info from the 70's...most young guys(tended to be the early owners of your ride) of that era were always cutting and splicing the under dash wiring to hook power to a combination of things...aftermarket gauges/stereo systems/speakers/CB radios/extra lighting...you name it I've seen it done. Just a tidbit from someone who lived thru the 70's era. 

[Kern Dog]

The work has begun. Today I bought 18 feet of 1/0 guage cable to relocate the battery to the trunk. I am using a battery box from an A-100 van. It is mounted behind the right wheel between the vent tube and the taillight panel. I decided to route the cable forward toward the seat, then across toward the drivers wheel tub, then inside above the rocker panel. It is nestled alongside the taillight wiring underneath that thin metal shield. I'll run it through a grommet through the firewall. It looks like the cleanest path is going between the steering column and the throttle pedal mount bracket, since the starter is just on the other side. The relocation of the battery will open up a spot to mount the box with the relays and switches.
Tomorrow the rewire work will begin.

[greenpigs]

All from Year One when they had the 20% off

Main Dash Harness
Rear Light Harness
Engine Harness
Front Light Harness
ECU Harness

Some are just a few wires but they give me piece of mind.

[Mytur Binsdirti]

This looks........good?   

[charge69]

All new wiring harnesses front-to-rear for me. Just too many possibilities with the old wiring.

[Kern Dog]

Bob and I have yet to actually rewire the engine side harness, but we have almost completed the battery relocation to the trunk. I bought a 1/0 cable and routed it through the trunk, behind the rear seat to the left rocker panel. It sits in the factory wire harness channel at the rocker panel. The cable continues forward to the firewall and loops over the parking brake cable, then passes through the firewall below the speedo cable. I have a thick plastic grommet in the firewall made from 2 pieces of sprinkler fittings. I'm using a FORD starter solenoid in the trunk to allow the 1/0 cable to remain dead except during engine cranking. I'll post pictures soon.

[projectanimal]

The work has begun. Today I bought 18 feet of 1/0 guage cable to relocate the battery to the trunk. I am using a battery box from an A-100 van. It is mounted behind the right wheel between the vent tube and the taillight panel. I decided to route the cable forward toward the seat, then across toward the drivers wheel tub, then inside above the rocker panel. It is nestled alongside the taillight wiring underneath that thin metal shield. I'll run it through a grommet through the firewall. It looks like the cleanest path is going between the steering column and the throttle pedal mount bracket, since the starter is just on the other side. The relocation of the battery will open up a spot to mount the box with the relays and switches.
Tomorrow the rewire work will begin.

We recently moved our battery to the trunk as well.  There is a local speed shop so I purchased a kit with battery box and then picked up some additional pieces.   I have the box on the passenger side of trunk, running the main line up along the passenger door will, and to firewall just below heater box.   Have a through wall plug with the original power line from the starter running along firewall to plug.  I can throw some pictures up tomorrow if anyone is Interested...    The previous owner had hacked an old battery tray up front and set it too high (hood could ground out battery) and I stalled aftermarket pulley set so you couldn't lower the tray.  Kind of nice to move the weight to the trunk and open up the area by the power steering! 

[Kern Dog]

I finished the battery relocation today and started the car. It is great when changes are made and all of it works right.
The Ford solenoid clicks a split second before the starter spins the motor. That is different to hear. The starter actually seems to spin faster than when the battery was up front.

[UH60L]

I bought the painless whole car kit for my '69 and have it laying loosely in the car.  I need to make a bracket to mount the fuse box retainer to (my intent is for it to be in the original location).

I am adding in a 6AL MSD controller and electronic distributer at the same time.

Unfortunately my car will remain "in progress" for a few more years due to finances and missing/broken parts.