Volt meter

[twodko]

Along with bypssing the ammeter, I've heard they can be sent out for conversion to volt meters. Do these voltmeter conversions handle the current load better. Can you buy a direct replacement for a 69? What's the deal?

[Dans 68]

I don't believe that the original amp wiring is used in the modified voltmeter; it would be tied off (bypassed) in a fashion.There would be no good reason, as now you are looking at a voltage versus a current (an analogy to better understand the electrical process is to take a dam. The height of the water behind the dam corresponds to the voltage, a hole in the dam corresponds to the resistance and the water flow through the hole the current. We don't want any water flow now.  )

As far as a conversion I've heard that Redline (http://www.redlinegaugeworks.com/default.asp) does it.

Dan

[tan top]

  i've converted my amp to a volt  meter , although i went nutts & changed all the main power supply routing to dash thats another story ,

for stock set up & just wanting to by pass the amp meter & run a volt meter , join / bolt etc the red & black amp meter  wires together , & insulate as required ,  connect volt meter + live / power to the accessory power to fuse box , think red & white from memory , - black to a good ground ,  will check later if needed  

[mhinders]

To remove the ammeter and replace it with a voltmeter is a step backwards.
An ammeter gives you more useful info than a voltmeter.

[jt66383]

I agree with Martin, the ammeter gives you more info than a voltmeter. However, these cars wiring systems are getting very old and the bulkhead connector and wires have become a source of high resistance (fire potential, see this months MCG).

I am in the process of building a conversion using stock gauges and a driver( I built) to replace the ammeter with a voltmeter. This process will off load the dash harness and eliminate the fire potential in our cars.

See the post titled Third generation amp meters a bit further down in this forum. Not sure how to post a link to it.


Jeff

[twodko]

Thanks for the input. I think the most expeditious safe guard is TT's rundown at least until I can send my ammeter out to be beefed up. I guess that's what these rebuild places do yes?

[mhinders]

Usually the ammeter doesn't need to be beefed up. The internals are very simple, and solid, and can handle a lot of current without any modification.

Check that the insulation is good around the 2 ammeter terminals, make sure all connections are tight, and that you have no corroded connections to the ammeter or in the bulkhead connector.

If you have added lots of current consuming devices (electrical cooling fans etc.) you may need to modify your electrical system.