Lost all power once again just by turning the key

[WH23G3G]

A few months ago on this 65 Valiant Slant Six when tuning a carb it stalled when we tried to start it again everything was dead, all power. It had a bad alternator gauge that I wasn't sure was working. When I took it out it was melted on the back. I replaced the gauge with a working one, new alternator 35amp, and a new voltage regulator. Well today I was trying to get the windshield wipers to park right and got fed up with that so I decided to start the engine just because it's been a few weeks. I turned the key and it tried to spin and then again all power was lost. No dome light, headlights, or anything. Same thing that happened before. It's got an all new engine/forward light harness, new battery cables, and fusible link. I checked the back of the alt gauge nothing was hot or visibly burned or melted. I know these gauges caused all kinds of trouble but twice within a couple months. Isn't there a conversion I can have done to the gauge to make it more reliable? I know the dash has had some repairs done to it, but all accessories and lights were working before this happened again. I hate to put $530 in this car for a new dash harness and it's not even a rare car or in great shape but it could make a good driver. What could be causing this? Is it just the old gauges or something that isn't wired right? But I don't see how it could be miswired, everything was working as it should.

[moparguy01]

Pull the bulkhead connector aPart in the engine bay. I will guess you melted the main power wire when the guage shorted before. I say that because that is what happened to my 68 coronet. You could wiggle the wires at the bulkhead to get power back.....it was shorting to ground.

[WH23G3G]

I'll check that. Whats a permanent fix, at least semi-permanent?

[Pete in NH]

Hi,

Ah, the joys of 40+ year old wiring and connections. My money would be on the bulk head connector also. There are a a few things you could try. One would be cleaning the contacts in the bulk head connector by simply unplugging the connector and replugging it in several times. This may clean the contacts up a little. You can also try some good contact cleaner like Caig Labs De-Oxit on the connector pins. A more permanent fix would be to remove the high current wiring path from the bulk head connector by installing some new wiring through a grommetted hole in the firewall.

There are some tricks you can use to rebuild the ammeter instrument itself and make it more reliable but, you can also damage it in the process so I would only try it on a spare part.

[nascarxx29]

Along with other known related wiring gremlins check the battery cables and connections

[WH23G3G]

When I replaced the dash harness with one from a Barracuda I took each wire out of the bulkhead,cleaned the bulkhead, and each wire terminal with a brass brush. Nothing on the replacement harness I used was corroded as bad as the one I took out of the car. I could tell the previous owner had the same problem but actually melted a wire going to the ammeter because he had rigged up a coat hanger going to one side of the ammeter. The engine forward light harness is all new from Year One. So if more cleaning doesn't do it the only left is a new harness? Say if I were to purchase a new dash harness would it be a good idea to send off the ammeter for a volt meter conversion? Who all does that? I have one spare ammeter but it's the on that got melted on the back so I think it's trash. I pretty much have to get this going again because now I have the money tied up in it. It was running again and then this happened. I've got a recovered seat and all new brake parts to go on for a car now that doesn't even run. I must get it going again.

[moparguy01]

i am of the school of thought that converting to a voltmeter is ALWAYS a good idea. I would do that. Also, like Pete said, clean off the contacts and all that. its also possible there is a bad wire in the harness, mopar wiring was not known to be the greatest. and 40 year old mopar wiring is THAT much worse. I rewired my whole car. I would say replacing the harness would be a good plan.

[Pete in NH]

Hi,

Cleaning the battery posts and cable connectors is a very good thought. Also, check the fusible link if there is one. I don't have any wiring diagrams for your year Valiant so I'm not sure exactly what you have there wring wise. Fusible links can open up under the rubber insulation and you can't really see the problem. The bulk head connector was a good place to start and is often the issue but it may not be in your case. It may be time to get into some wire tracing and measurements as to where you have voltage and where you do not. A little volt-ohmeter tester will tell you quite a lot and beats guessing as to what is going on. If you don't have such a tester you can find something small and inexpensive at the local Radio Shack. That way you can look at the two posts on the ammeter and see if there is voltage there. If neither post has voltage you will have to start tracing back towards the positive post on the battery. If one post has voltage and the other doesn't the ammeter is open once again. A little tracing and troubleshooting can lead you to what needs to be repaired rather than replacing a whole harness or kind of wandering around in the dark as to what may be wrong.

[nascarxx29]

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1965/65ValiantBarracudaA.jpg
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1965/65ValiantBarracudaB.jpg

[WH23G3G]

I guess the battery cables weren't on tight enough. I mess with them and power was regained. Now just need to fine tune this thing for it to be running good.

[K9COP]

Maybe..... but you can also bypass the AMP meter by putting both wires on to one terminal on the back of the gauge, or try this: http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml for a more permanent fix. It eliminates the bulkhead connector issues. Makes much more sense to re-route the wiring, especially if you're adding accessories that require voltage. Hope this helps.....

CS