Whats the real value of a 69 RT SE these days?

[Lord Warlock]

Just wondering what the real value monetarily wise of a 1969 Charger R/T SE.  The car isn't a one off, nor has it been totally restored, it has been refreshed quite a bit.  I'll need to insure it so will need a real value, figured it should be 30-40k, but really not sure anymore.

Engine: 440, 727 auto on column, non matching number, but it came out of an original matching number 69 RT charger with 69k original miles.  Engine runs great, car has not been driven in years so tranny needs fluids pumped through and maybe a refresh kit to make roadworthy.  Engine is totally stock, no modifications and has all the original hardware except some fuel line parts.

Body: All original sheetmetal, all straight, paint is new, some repro chrome pieces going on, but have the original parts as backups or for rechroming.  bumpers need rechrome but are unbent. Very little bondo used anywhere, only front right fender has some to recurve the shape, i found old damage that was fixed on it when i took it all down to bare metal, it had been repaired prior to my owning it by a shop that worked the metal, and used as little filler as it could.  It had some thin skim coating to fix blemishes and dings but i'd still say its almost bondo free.
Rust: No rust in quarters (one side was patch panel fixed, other side was ground and pinholes filled), no rust near back window (this was fixed with new metal) floor pan is original and had no rust, but i treated it with POR15 after cleaning it all off before the interior install.  Under car is dusty, but no rust, its been stored inside a garage for decades.  Trunk floor does need to be replaced, just the middle section there are holes around gas tank tube and near where the spare bolts down, sides of trunk are solid and rust free.  I figured i'd have a new floor installed once i can drive it to a body shop to do the welding.  You CAN stand in the trunk safely without falling through anywhere, I once fiberglassed it and the surface rusted under the fiberglass making it less pretty than it was, i took out the fiberglass to ready for a new floor.

Needs: tail light chrome pieces rechromed or replaced, have the pieces but they are pitted/bumpy. Inner fender was rusted under the battery box, side access hole rusted on one side, rust was removed, ground down and coated/painted, just not enough to justify replacing the inner fender.  Wouldn't be visible if battery tray was installed, plan a new one soon.
headlight doors used to go up and down if you switched the vacuum tubes so i think they are intact, but it never worked by the dash switch, so may need a new switch or tubes to the nose.  Not sure how to fix this yet, but will get around to it eventually.

Suspension/brakes, rear drums and front discs, power assisted, new master cylinder and tank was installed before i stored it.  Calipers were removed, have a new set of 4 piston bendix calipers waiting to go on, but will need new lines and fittings.  needs new rotors up front, was considering upgrading to a new disc system, even bought it, but never installed it, think its from a 76 aspen, but all new parts in boxes, new rotors, calipers, lines, complete front kit, but then decided original was probably a better solution and got old calipers totally rebuilt.  shocks are old and probably need replacing, hold the body fine but haven't been used so probably due for replacement before driving.

electrical: everything still functional, tach/clock need a rebuild but still move, Air conditioning is all there, but only worked sporadically when i drove it, have a spare compressor off the donor car.  Held pressure though.  

Interior is new, new leather, door panels in front are new, rears are original, dashpad needs replacing but only has one small crack in it, servicable unless turned into a show car.  new carpet, handles and cranks will all be new soon.  

Overall the car looks very good, is mostly complete (talking 99%), and runs.  It is a heavily optioned car (full fender tag) and have the build sheet to verify the tag.  Its got some rare options, is a very early production model, and is a unique color combo (Y3 with tan top) what are the opinions of its real value so the wife can rest easier knowing there is an asset worth something back in the hobby garage?  This is one of those survivor cars that most would love to get for a full on restoration project, thats been rejuvinated, but not restored.  I've just been trying to get it back to presentable and driving condition after 20+ years of storage.  Seen values all over the place, but yall should be able to give me a better idea since you also own these and have been following them. 

[richRTSE]

I sold mine a year ago for $25k....I'm sure I coulda got more, but it went to a close friend who has helped me out in the past, and included a "buy-back" agreement if I changed my mind or if he decides to sell it. It was a 10 yr old restoration and was still looking pretty good, although there were a fews scratches/chips in the paint. Still had fendertag and all body numbers matched, but did not have original motor or trans, and car was originally triple green, stripe delete, column shift auto. Both quarters and the rear valance had been replaced, but all other metal was original. I added disc brakes, factory power windows, and center console.

[XS29L9Bxxxxxx]

Pics would help, but I would say no more than 25k

[Lord Warlock]

Pics have been posted in the other thread http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=94954.new;topicseen#new

but as i've said i'm in the process of putting it all back together after a long, long storage.  Luckily i held on to all the original parts I had plus a few i took off the green/green r/t when i transplanted the motor and tranny in the 80s.  NADA average said 40k, which i thought would be a little high, prices have gone up and down over the last 33 years its been stored, and with the economy today prices are deflated a bit. 

[bakerhillpins]

I read what you wrote and hear that the car was originally 3x green?  If so suspect you are in the middle 30s when all together for an appraisal but it's nothing more than a guess. Mine was appraised for 30k with non orig motor. It's a 3x black 69 rt with fender tag and broadcast sheet. 15-20yr old resto and a bit tired now. Originally Q5 with black top/interior stripe delete, console auto AC car.

[XS29LA47V21]

Might consider searching on this site regarding insurance, it took me 20+ yrs to figure out for me to separate my "collector car" from my other bundled volume discount corner store main stream insurance.  Although, the color change-numbers matching thing is import to many of us, I am not sure that matters that much for insurance purposes, unless you have numbers matching immaculate hemi something with a wing.  Some of collector car insurances I think have in house real car people that are involved in accepting your car or not at a stated value with application process........... that is the direction I went (although I self insure/risk not having coverage on some non running cars).  SF yrs ago on me 3-4x what a collector insure is and SF wanted a appraisal each yr which is a real hassle to me then (young did not know anyone in Field).

Regarding value clearly mine are worth twice market    to me

ps - mmm V21

[bakerhillpins]

The place the did my appraisal, which was required for the insurance rate I got, was interested in the fact that the car came with docs (broadcast sheet - and specifically asked to view them) more so then if the #s matched. Color did seem to matter but don't quote me on that one.

All relative. It's only ever worth what someone would pay or how much you need to buy a new one. 

[Dino]

The appraisers probably think green and bronze Chargers are worth less because we all bitch about them all day long.   

[Lord Warlock]

I read what you wrote and hear that the car was originally 3x green?

No, the original color of the car in question is Y3 creme yellow, same color it is today with fresh paint.  The motor and transmission came out of a 3x green 69 charger r/t that hit a telephone pole and was trashed, i just pulled the parts i wanted from it and salvaged the rest.  My Y3 car had the original matching number motor in it when i got it, but i spun a rod bearing when the oil pump driveshaft broke, and not thinking of future collectibility, i just got another motor and dropped it in (first replacement was a 383 with upgraded rods, the 440 in it now went in a couple years after the 383, when i decided i wanted to be as original as i could.  I swapped the tranny in as well, because i stupidly managed to strip the threads on the trans pan bolt holes and it leaked alot afterwards-stripped all but 3, socket wrench was set wrong and from underneath i lost track of direction.  Live and learn.
At least now i can say the motor is a date correct 440, and came out of a 69 charger r/t, but yes it is a non matching number motor and tranny.  When i swapped motors, i put the original 440's heads, intake, carb, ac compressor and other parts from the original car on the replacement shortblock.  (even have a spare head sitting in the garage) it has the original exhaust manifolds and pipes, mufflers however were replaced in the 80s with original replacement style.

Creme yellow chargers never seemed to be a high demand color, i liked it because it was yellow, but always wished it was a brighter yellow, but since it was that color to start, i decided to repaint it that color.  It  had the factory paint on it until i took it to metal about 6 years ago. Personally, green is my favorite color, but i didn't care for the dark green that was on the donor car, i prefer the sassy grass green color.  I left the firewall, and bottom of hood and trunklid paint alone just for future reference, it is still the original paint in those places.

Unfortunately, the v21 hood treatment is not an original item on the fender or the broadcast sheet, from what i understand it wasn't an option till later in the year.  I just figured if i'm gonna paint the car, i may as well paint it the way I like or would have ordered it, while still maintaining the original color.  I've learned to like the color, since it evidently is an extremely rare color combo, especially with a tan top and tan leather interior/woodgrain dash.  I did use organisol for the treatment though, to match the tail light panel and stripe.  

[cdr]

The appraisers probably think green and bronze Chargers are worth less because we all bitch about them all day long.   

and pooooop gold 

[Lord Warlock]

Fender tag is as follows:

V1T V8X 25 END

M21 M25 M31 N85 R21

G11 G31 G33 H51 J25 L31

A01 A47 B41 B51 C21 C55

Y3 Y3 CRT T3 904 084585

E86 D32 XS29 L9B 128084

[bakerhillpins]

That's a nice set of options on that car. 

I also like the V21 hood treatment that you added.  I looked at y3charger's (I am sure I have that wrong) Y3 69 with black top/interior at Carlisle this year and last. It's a nice color. And not common either. 

[Lord Warlock]

I've seen a daytona in either y2 or y3 around here, also seen the odd superbee or dart this color, but never seen another RT/SE charger with y3 and tan top in the 30+ years i've owned it.  The build sheet confirms the right side mirror, locking gas cap, and hood turn signals options.  As well as the fender tag options.

Only thing I'm missing is the HD steel SE wheels and deep dish wheelcovers (w15)(w25).  Not sure if I want to get a set of those yet, prefer the magnums, the slots that are on it, or other aftermarket chrome wheels.  Not really sure if the wheels would be worth the investment. 

[Dino]

I've seen a daytona in either y2 or y3 around here, also seen the odd superbee or dart this color, but never seen another RT/SE charger with y3 and tan top in the 30+ years i've owned it.  The build sheet confirms the right side mirror, locking gas cap, and hood turn signals options.  As well as the fender tag options.

Only thing I'm missing is the HD steel SE wheels and deep dish wheelcovers (w15)(w25).  Not sure if I want to get a set of those yet, prefer the magnums, the slots that are on it, or other aftermarket chrome wheels.  Not really sure if the wheels would be worth the investment. 

The first thing that buyers would do back then is get rid of the stock wheels and get something decent on there.  Unless you love the stock setup I wouldn't think twice about it.  Besides, it's not like it's irreversible.  Your car is going to look killer when done, but I don't think skinny wheels and hubcaps are going to make it better.   

[Lord Warlock]

somehow, i don't think it will ever be "done".  It may get to a stage where I can take it in public without worrying what i did wrong on it, or even to a local show, but i don't forsee it ever being in a real show looking to win ribbons or trophies.  I'm just happy it is as rust free as it is and most of the work is just detail type stuff, its in better condition today than it was when i got it in 78.  I do wish i hadn't thrown the original numbers matching block away though, it wasn't that bad, only had a hairline crack in the main journal, it could have been milled out and oversized bearings used.  But was cheaper to buy another engine at the time than have the machine work done.

The salvage yard i took it to isn't there anymore so i'm thinking its long gone. 

Oh, and i am missing a few other small items, most of which can be bought again finally.  Can't find the rod that fits beetween the hood latch  and lock though, just went through my entire bolt bucket (bolts from the two chargers that aren't currently being used) that was where i found the hood latch and handle at, really thought i kept all the parts together, but 20 years is a long time to keep things tidy.