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Pinion seal on a 489 case 8.75 rear

Started by chargd72, September 13, 2012, 10:16:40 AM

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chargd72

I have a leaking front seal on my 489 case.  I know the pinion pre-load gets set by a crush sleeve.  I want to avoid messing with the sleeve even though I know they make a solid spacer replacement, but I don't want to mess with used gears and make them whine even more.  So my question is this.  Can I make reference marks on my case, yolk & nut before I remove the seal then line them back up when torquing the nut back down?  If it's all in line the pinion should be in the same spot giving it the correct pre-load, right?  Please let me know if this is possible or if this is just a dumn idea.

***This will be just a temporary fix until I have some money/time for a suregrip unit***

          '72 Charger SE 4bbl 318                          '76 Power Wagon 400 W200                                 2011 (attempt at a) Charger

cdr

you can do it that way,its not THE RIGHT WAY but it can be done,also known as a flat rate repair,IF you do it that way get some RED THREAD LOCKER & use alot on the threads,if you over crush the sleeve the bearings will be to tight & BURN UP :Twocents:
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

Plumcrazy

Disconnect the drive shaft and remove the brake drums.
Measure the turning torque of the pinion gear. Remove the yoke and replace the seal.

When you replace the yoke tighten the nut until the turning torque is the same as before

It's not a midlife crisis, it's my second adolescence.

John_Kunkel



The FSM condones the OP's procedure provided the nut will torque to 170 ft. lbs. before the marks line up.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

resq302

cant you just use a torque wrench to take it off and note what the torque is by slowly going up to what the nut finally starts moving and then torque it bakc down to that?
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

cdr

Quote from: resq302 on September 13, 2012, 04:08:19 PM
cant you just use a torque wrench to take it off and note what the torque is by slowly going up to what the nut finally starts moving and then torque it bakc down to that?

no it takes more torque to break it loose
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

chargd72

Quote from: cdr on September 13, 2012, 04:53:39 PM
Quote from: resq302 on September 13, 2012, 04:08:19 PM
cant you just use a torque wrench to take it off and note what the torque is by slowly going up to what the nut finally starts moving and then torque it bakc down to that?

no it takes more torque to break it loose

Correct, I wouldn't trust the numbers.

Thanks for the responses, fellas.  I'll give it a shot.  What were they thinking using a crush sleeve  :brickwall:

          '72 Charger SE 4bbl 318                          '76 Power Wagon 400 W200                                 2011 (attempt at a) Charger