How to diagnose ticking noise after cam install #2 383

[XH29N0G]

I have a ticking noise associated with the #3 or 5 cylinders (found by putting a metal rod to the exhaust side and listening).  It starts when the engine is hot and goes away when it is cold.  I don't think it is an exhaust leak, and wonder about the rocker arms or that it is a consequence of a cam installation I just did.  I am writing to get advice on (1) how to diagnose the source of ticking? and (2) possible fixes that I am inclined to try.  The particulars are below.

Relevant information.
1.  I just installed a new cam and lifters (a lunati 60302 kit).  I see a discussion about valvetrain noise parallel to this one.
2.  It started after I ran the car up to about 5500 in first this morning.  It stopped after the engine cooled and returned after about 15-20 minutes of gentle driving.  It went away after it cooled a second time.  It is relatively minor, but it is definitely there.  
3. I hear it through the header and the head near the #3 and #5 exhaust.  I suspect it is vlavetrain noise, but understand from other sources that it can be a leak.
4.  I have what look like crushable metal gaskets on the headers and the bolts are tight, so I don't supect exhaust.
5.  Oil is 10-40.  I was running 20-50 before the cam install because it made the engine quieter (less ticking noises).
6.  The engine has 110K original miles.
7.  The pushrods will spin after the engine has sat.  I suspect this is normal.  II pulled the valve cover earlier tonight to check this.  I did not detect play in the pushrods.
8.  When I looked at them during the cam install, the rocker arms were slightly worn where the pushrods contact them.  

I am inclined to....

Am I thinking straight?  Is there something I should look for?  What would you do?

Thank you

[XH29N0G]

I pressed a button before I wrote what I was inclined to do.

I am inclined to:

1. swap out the rocker arms to check if a combination of wear and thinning of oil might cause the noise.
2. change the oil to 20-50 w (which is what I used before the cam swap to keep similar noise down but do not know why it worked).  I also do not know if it has unintended consequences for a new cam install.
3. pull the intake and valley pan to inspect the cam.  I do not know what I would be looking for.

So this is where I ask what would you do?  Are these ideas nuts?  Is there a sequence of tests that I should do.

thanks,

[Challenger340]

"Whose" Lifters were used when installing the Lunati Cam ?

Sry, re-read your post..."Lunati Cam Kit", so probably Lunati supplied Lifters.

I don't wish to fog the issue initially, far more diagnostics you need to pursue first, as the ticking could be a whole host of other things....
but at some point,
remove the Valve Covers after the engine is well warm and the ticking underway, bring each Cylinder to TDC individually by rotating the Engine slowly, then see if you can compress the Rockers(Lifter Plunger) by Hand...checking for Lifter Bleed down.
The Lifter Plungers should NOT compress, in other words, you should NOT be able to collapse the lifter plunger by pressing HARD on the Rocker Arm.

Sorta like cutting to the chase.....costs NOTHING.....and if ALL the Rockers are hard and the Lifter Plungers can NOT be compressed, at least you will know to look elsewhere for the problem.

[XH29N0G]

Thanks.  I saw your post on the 4500 rpm 383 and will do this.  The idea then would be that the lifter would compress when warm, but not when cold.  I did try to compress it last night (cold) and did not have it compress.  The pushrods were not tight however (I could spin a number of them).

The lifters were Lunati lifters (and to tell the truth, I would not know how to tell whose they are beyond that).  The Springs are OTB edelbrock performer RPM springs.  The rocker arms are original 110K stamped rocker arms with some wear, but I do not know how to gauge this. 

My understanding is that the lifters should pump up, that this will tighten up the valvtrain when running and then the pushrods should not spin, but that spinning after the car sat for a few hours and cooled down is not abnormal.

[Challenger340]

Thanks.  I saw your post on the 4500 rpm 383 and will do this.  The idea then would be that the lifter would compress when warm, but not when cold.  I did try to compress it last night (cold) and did not have it compress.  The pushrods were not tight however (I could spin a number of them).

The lifters were Lunati lifters (and to tell the truth, I would not know how to tell whose they are beyond that).  The Springs are OTB edelbrock performer RPM springs.  The rocker arms are original 110K stamped rocker arms with some wear, but I do not know how to gauge this. 

My understanding is that the lifters should pump up, that this will tighten up the valvtrain when running and then the pushrods should not spin, but that spinning after the car sat for a few hours and cooled down is not abnormal.

No,
rather the Lifter should NOT bleed down when the Engine is warm and has been run, and it should be HARD.

Only when subjected to a COLD start after SITTING overnight etc.,, it is acceptable to hear "some" ticking for a second or two, until Oil Pressure gets to the Lifter and pumps them back up.

[XH29N0G]

I understand.  Sorry for being unclear.  I should have written that the symptom of a bad lifter is that it will bleed down warm. 

My test yesterday showed me that I was not able to cause it to bleed down any more than to spin the pushods when it is cold.  I also do not have ticking when it is cold.

Thanks.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Could be as simple as the rockers worn

[tufamc]

Yup, I got the other noisy 383 after a 302 cam swap, my lifters are OK, checked em' warm and cold, nice and tight, just orders new springs/stock rockers, will report back after install, tho it may be a couple of weeks.....

[XH29N0G]

An update:  

I checked the lifters for bleed down and did not see it.  I then replaced the stamped rocker arms with new ones and so far, the problem has not reappeared.  

It is puzzling to me, because while I see wear, it is not obvious to me how much occurred and whether I actually fixed this correctly.  I will keep everyone posted if it returns and ends up being something else.

Thanks for the responses earlier.

[AirborneSilva]

I think the valve train on my freshly built 383 is a bit too noisy too, i didnt have the money to do new shafts and rockers, guess i should change mine  where's a good place to order new ones?

[XH29N0G]

I am the wrong one to ask about this.  (Anyone else?)

I ordered the Mopar stamped rockers online.  Mancini has them.  I would however defer to someone else, because even though it fixed the ticking, I could not tell if you asked me to compare new versus old, why one was bad and the other was better. 

[AirborneSilva]

Nah, didn't ask for comparison, I'm  certain i need new rockers.