Changing/correcting my drive train - FINAL UPDATE - THANKS RON!!!

[resq302]

I wish I had an overdrive unit in mine.     You don't know how long it took me to go from my 5 speed 85 Jeep CJ7 to driving a 4 speed in my charger.  Even still, I occasionally try and take it out of 4th and put it into the OD or 5th gear.  Funny thing is, no matter how many times I do it..... its not there!   

[firefighter3931]

Great.  I can't wait to wake her up with this project.  Is there a preferred stage to replace the cam considering I'm going to do this in two parts?  Part 1 being the TC, OD and rear-end, and part 2 being the intake and heads.  In other words, should I stick with the Isky until I get to my intake/heads, or should I swap it for the Lunati now?  Also, when I swap my heads and finally get confirmation on my CR and piston setup, should I target a specific CR to end up with when the new heads go on, considering all of the other changes I'm doing?

Dan, if it were mine : I would do the cam and converter first and give it a try to see how you like it. The heads & intake can be done later 

With aluminum heads you should target in the 10-10.5 static compression ratio area for best performance. 


Ron

[BSB67]

You do have some miss matched parts, and I'm not sure what you are looking for from your car.  But as an alternative to your current plan, maybe instead put that money into the motor with the goal of making more power.  For half the money that you are planning to spend, you could put on a good set of heads, and a nice custom solid lifter cam and simply make a bunch more hp, and not spend any money on gears, GV, and torque converter.  It comes down to personal preference.

[BananaDan]

Great.  I can't wait to wake her up with this project.  Is there a preferred stage to replace the cam considering I'm going to do this in two parts?  Part 1 being the TC, OD and rear-end, and part 2 being the intake and heads.  In other words, should I stick with the Isky until I get to my intake/heads, or should I swap it for the Lunati now?  Also, when I swap my heads and finally get confirmation on my CR and piston setup, should I target a specific CR to end up with when the new heads go on, considering all of the other changes I'm doing?

Dan, if it were mine : I would do the cam and converter first and give it a try to see how you like it. The heads & intake can be done later 

With aluminum heads you should target in the 10-10.5 static compression ratio area for best performance. 


Ron

Thanks!  I'll let you know how it works out...

You do have some miss matched parts, and I'm not sure what you are looking for from your car.  But as an alternative to your current plan, maybe instead put that money into the motor with the goal of making more power.  For half the money that you are planning to spend, you could put on a good set of heads, and a nice custom solid lifter cam and simply make a bunch more hp, and not spend any money on gears, GV, and torque converter.  It comes down to personal preference.

Thanks, I see where you're going but I'm looking forward to the OD unit though.   

[BananaDan]

I traded a few more e-mails with my engine builder, trying to see if he had been able to recover any of my build paperwork.  He now says that my paperwork has been lost/destroyed.     I can't complain too much, I didn't know or think to ask for this stuff when I was young and dumb and now he's retired.  He did however offer me to e-mail him questions and he will do what he can to remember.  I asked him what my pistons were and what my static compression was.  He said the pistons were TRW forged, but offered no part number.  He also said he recalled my C/R being 10.5:1.  That being said, does this alter my plans or cam choice at all, or just put me in better shape?

[firefighter3931]

I traded a few more e-mails with my engine builder, trying to see if he had been able to recover any of my build paperwork.  He now says that my paperwork has been lost/destroyed.     I can't complain too much, I didn't know or think to ask for this stuff when I was young and dumb and now he's retired.  He did however offer me to e-mail him questions and he will do what he can to remember.  I asked him what my pistons were and what my static compression was.  He said the pistons were TRW forged, but offered no part number.  He also said he recalled my C/R being 10.5:1.  That being said, does this alter my plans or cam choice at all, or just put me in better shape?

Dan if the pistons are forged and the claimed comp ratio is 10.5 then the pistons are the speedpro/trw #2355's 

Depending on the deckheight/head gasket/chamber volume it could be anywhere from low 9's to mid 10's so i'd say the 303 Lunati is a good choice. 

This is the same grind i recommended for Bill's 500+ HP 440 




Ron

[BananaDan]

Thanks Ron.  Yeah, I have the task of measuring my deck height stashed away for whenever my heads come off in the future. My heads are 906 heads with port and polish work if that helps.  I'm going to move on the 303 as planned. 

I'll keep you all updated.  I'm hoping this will be done by the end of March.

[firefighter3931]

Dan, just a "heads up" on your planned cam install : The Lunati Cam is a 3 bolt upper cam gear attachment so you might need a new timing set. The Comp Cams "Magnum" is an excellent double roller timing set and is economical. 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-2109/



Ron

[BananaDan]

Sure thing, I'll keep that in mind.  My invoice says "78225 roller timing chain set"  $42, which I get hits for on the websites of Advanced Auto Parts and AutoZone, but not on Summit.  It is a 3-bolt based on the invoice and the pictures (assuming the invoice is correct).  It looks like my Isky Mega 280 cam is available in both single bolt and three bolt options.  We'll see...

[BananaDan]

I dropped her off tonight!  I opted to hold off on the cam for now, I want to drive her this summer with this cam to see how she is.  So many people have told me that changing the TC and putting taller gears in the rear will wake her up so much, I want to see how this cam is at it's potential before dealing with the labor and trouble of a cam swap.  Plus, next winter I have a CH4B and new heads in the plans, so if I want to do a cam change I'll do it then. 

For now, here's what I'm having done:
-Re-gear the 3.23 rear to 3.91.
-New torque converter, Turbo Action 17805ST 10".
-Gear Vendors OD kit.
-New aluminum drive shaft.

[BananaDan]

I picked her up this Saturday and holy crap, what a difference!  Many many many thanks to Ron for guiding me through this adventure.   

The car is amazing now.  She is a total beast driving around town, but such a pussy cat on the highway with the GV OD.  She isn't much louder than my Jeep Liberty daily driver on the interstate cruising at 70 now, amazing.  It's gonna be a fun summer!

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Hey Dan sounds like Mike did a nice job!  Just remember to look in the rear view mirror for us slower folk on the highway now.....in case we break down

[1970Moparmann]

I picked her up this Saturday and holy crap, what a difference!  Many many many thanks to Ron for guiding me through this adventure.   

The car is amazing now.  She is a total beast driving around town, but such a pussy cat on the highway with the GV OD.  She isn't much louder than my Jeep Liberty daily driver on the interstate cruising at 70 now, amazing.  It's gonna be a fun summer!

Very cool!

[firefighter3931]

You're welcome Dan 

Like i said at the beginning of this thread the combo wasn't terribly mismatched....it just needed a little help. 

Glad to hear you're happy with the outcome ! 


Ron

[BananaDan]

Hey Dan sounds like Mike did a nice job!  Just remember to look in the rear view mirror for us slower folk on the highway now.....in case we break down

He did.  Mike's the man.

[TUFCAT]

I'm happy for you Dan!  Why the aluminum driveshaft? Is it a requirement for the GV unit or just a preference?  

I learned from many people that a great torque convertor will make all the difference in your build. The term "YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR" totally applies here!   

[BananaDan]

The GV OD is longer than the 727 tail shaft by a few inches, so my choice was to have my stock shaft shortened or have a new one made up.  Mike (Bonsanti, shop doing the work) said the cost would be about the same and he said he highly recommended aluminum over steel if going new.  He said it's more stable and easier to balance and he uses them on all of the F.A.S.T. cars he works on.  He's "the guy" around these parts, so I went with his advice.

[resq302]

Dan, is that HP Mike over in Morristown / Morris Twp there behind the jail?

[bill440rt]

  

The car sure sounded nice! 

Hey Dan sounds like Mike did a nice job!  Just remember to look in the rear view mirror for us slower folk on the highway now.....in case we break down

Yup. Stick together! 

[BananaDan]

Yes Brian, that's him.

[resq302]

Ive heard he does nice work.  I had one incident with him but he made it right by the time I left.  With all the good reviews Ive heard of him, I'd certainly use him again.