Ballast resistor and voltage regulator part numbers

[bull]

I'm trying to get the correct volt reg and ballast resistor from MP through the local Dodge dealer and while they only list one number for the four-prong ballast resistor (P5206436) they list three numbers for the volt reg. Jegs lists only one for the street use application (P4529794) and two others for race use but then Dodge lists two different numbers for "1970 restoration" (77R06285) and "1971 restoration" (77R06286), along with a "muscle car OE" regulator which is p/n P4529794. That one matches the first Jegs number above. I'm leaning toward that one since it seems to indicate general purpose street application but I'm wondering what "1970 restoration" and "1971 restoration" means? Is it just an aesthetics thing with a special part number printed on the case for those specific years?

[tan top]

 have you still got a single field alternator ?

[bull]

have you still got a single field alternator ?

Nope, dual.

And while I've got you here, is there a diagram somewhere that tells you which wire goes where on the alt and coil from the new style electronic ignition harness? IIRC it doesn't matter which field wire goes to which feild terminal but I wouldn't bet my charging system on that.

Also, what's the best way to ground an orange box ignition control unit?

[tan top]

 forgot to ask

mp electronic  ignition  or  points  set  up    ,  standard mp coil ?

[bull]

Electronic ignition. The coil is an MSD Blaster.

Just got off the phone with the MP tech guy (what a joke) and he initially tried to convince me I needed the constant output race only regulator. After I talked him out of that tree he finally told me what I already suspected; that the 70 and 71 resto regulators are simply for aesthetics with special colored/designated lettering on the case. Apparently all are the same on the inside.

[bull]

By the way, I was happy to see these test numbers out of my new "60 amp" alternator. They pretty much matched the test numbers on the 78 amp alt I had initially purchased from the same store but decided to return due to the hassle of making it fit. Even the lower RPM output numbers were very similar. Just goes to show that it pays to look at the actual output rather than just the ratings when buying an alternator.

[tan top]

how i  grounded my orange box ,  clean the orange paint off to shiny metal where the attaching blots go , both sides , same if your using the factory bracket , clean to shiny metal two spots where the box is going to be mounted. also what i done  was make up a dedicated ground wire  that i attached to one Orange box mounting bolt &  the other end bolted it directally to a clean shiny metal spot on the body , once you have fitted & tightened up all bolts , any exposed bare metal cover it with clear lacquer & or body cavity wax , or similar .


http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/ignition---electronics.html


http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/oemuscarvolr.html

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/piwiendfor3v.html

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/eligsys.html

think you can run the above ballast resistor  with the blaster coil  or to get the full effect of using that coil you need the recommended  one , im not sure on this  , just trying to remember something read

you only need a 70 & up regulator , lots of places are selling date coded ones & stuff , something you don't need
true it does not matter which  field wire goes where on the back of the alternator , providing you have the duel field charging set up wired correctly ,

will post diagrams in a minute , got to re size one also

[tan top]

 having a prob resizing a better diagram , will post it soon as i can 

[bull]

Factory bracket???

[tan top]

Factory bracket???

 you can get them with slots in the back for better cooling too ,  as it says heat kills the ECU boxes  , although lots of guys mount them on the back of the intake  , with zero problems !

http://www.classicindustries.com/mopar/parts/md4698.html

[tan top]

more

[bull]

Thanks.

I wonder if MP carries the ECU bracket?

[tan top]

not sure , the one i got 10 years ago was a repop , looking at it , think i  should of just made one for what it cost

have a look here on ebay !! there is the slotted one too  

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-Big-Block-ECU-Bracket-PROBLEM-SOLVER-Dodge-440-70-/330621608505?hash=item4cfa956239&item=330621608505&pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr


http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=mopar+ecu+bracket&_sacat=&_fspt=0&_sop=10&Model%2520Year=1989%7C1988%7C1987%7C1986%7C1985%7C1984%7C1983%7C1982%7C1981%7C1980%7C1979%7C1978%7C1977%7C1976%7C1975%7C1974%7C1973%7C1972%7C1971%7C1970%7C1969%7C1968%7C1967%7C1966%7C1965%7C1964&Generation=1968%252D1970&Model=Charger&_dmpt=US_Cars_Trucks&_fpos=95616&Make=Dodge&_odkw=&_osacat=6001&bkBtn=&_trksid=m270

[bull]

$20 for a slotted one isn't too bad compared to $32 for the solid brackets.