Power Feed for Initial Break-In

[69fourspd]

I am getting ready to start up my 440 for the first time.  I have connected power to main harness to test for spark and I am getting an arc.  If I leave the power on, I get a continuous spark and the ballast and 12v to the harness gets really hot.  Is this normal? I took a picture of the harness I am supplying power to and it is the blue wire w/white tracer. 

I am using the Year One electronic conversion harness and everything is wired off the harness.  Is this the right thing to do or should I go a different route.  If the motor is not running, should these wires and ballast get so hot?

Any input is much appreciated. Thanks.

[68neverlate]

I am getting ready to start up my 440 for the first time.  I have connected power to main harness to test for spark and I am getting an arc.  If I leave the power on, I get a continuous spark and the ballast and 12v to the harness gets really hot.  Is this normal? I took a picture of the harness I am supplying power to and it is the blue wire w/white tracer. 

I am using the Year One electronic conversion harness and everything is wired off the harness.  Is this the right thing to do or should I go a different route.  If the motor is not running, should these wires and ballast get so hot?

Any input is much appreciated. Thanks.

Are you using an electronic ignition set up or the old style points and condenser?  If you're using the old style points and condenser, sounds like you have ignition on to the "run" position and your points are closed.  Those wires (and the points for that matter) are not designed/intended to conduct current (stay closed) for an extended period (with the engine running or even turning over, the current only flows when the points are closed; so current is constantly switching on and off).  If they do, they will heat up as you described, so no, you do not want to leave it like that.  You only want to apply current just as you are ready to start the engine, otherwise, you could overheat wires and melt/weld your points together.  You may want to check your points to ensure that didn't already happen...   

This is the reason why the ignition switches have an "ACC" position, so you can run accessories without having power applied to the points and risking a meltdown of wiring and/or points...

[69fourspd]

The setup is using the upgraded electronic ignition with 4 wire ecu. 

[68neverlate]

I'm not sure if the ECUs would give you the same results.  It sure sounds like it might from what you described.  Hopefully someone with some expertise on ECUs will chime in and assist...   

Good luck...        

[Chryco Psycho]

you must have a short somewhere , the ballast will get very hot but the wiring should stay cold .
ALl you should need to start it is power to the Ecu & coil & short the stater wires to crank it over , + any gauges

[68neverlate]

you must have a short somewhere , the ballast will get very hot but the wiring should stay cold.

After I responded last night I had a further thought.  It sure wouldn't make any sense to design an ECU to allow current to pass in the circuit unless the engine is running or turning over (therefore preventing a large constant flow of current).  That would be one of the benefits of having an ECU. 

So, given that, what Chryco Psycho said makes total sense to me... you must have a short somewhere.       

[69fourspd]

Thanks for the responses guys.  I will start unplugging things and get the volt meter out. Will let you know what I find. 

[Chryco Psycho]

you could just power the starter coil & ign & run it by bypassing the factory harness altogether .
I take it you do nothave the dash harness plugged in so connecting the fusable link in the picture will power nothing , if you have a light spark the coil could be causing a draw