News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Engine won' turn over after re-assembly

Started by ktneifert09, September 19, 2011, 07:29:34 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

ktneifert09

When I got my car, it wasn't running, missing too many parts.  I took my 383 apart to see what it looked like inside.  Before I did so, I was able to turn it over by hand with my 18 inch breaker bar on the crank bolt with no difficulty.  I pulled the heads, unbolted the rod ends and pulled the pistons, being careful to keep track of which cylinders they came out of. It was nice and clean inside with no measurable ovaling of the cylinders.  It's been rebuilt, the rod end bearings are stamped as .010 oversize and date stamped 1994. I had a minor brain fart when pulling one piston and slightly scratched the crank at the number 8 rod end but it was really minor and I touched it up with some emery cloth, keeping it wet with WD40 while I did so.  Put the pistons back in, being careful to align them towards the front correctly and put the rod ends back on, being careful to line up the oil slots correctly.  I  had another brain fart torquing them - accidentally read the torque for the hemi and broke a bolt on the number 8 rod end before I figured it out.  Bought new bolts and replaced all of them while I was at it.  So now I start torquing the rod end bolts and when I getting about four of them torqued up, the thing won't turn over any more without heavy effort and by the time I get to the last two, it won't move once they're torqued. What the heck am I doing wrong?  Thanks guys!
Plans are useless; planning is indispensible.
Especially with an old car!

resq302

Did you put assembly lube on it as you were rebuilding the parts?
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Challenger340

Rod Bolts can not be replaced by themselves, without resizing the connecting Rods. The new bolts will re-locate the caps and change the size of the big ends, which is why I suspect the engine siezes up when you Torque the nuts.
New Rod Bolts = resize the Rods

Remove the Pistons & Rods, and have the rods resized with the new bolts.
Most Shops will not resize the Rods with the Pistons attached, as too hard to do properly with the Piston swinging around on the ends, so you'll probably have to have the Pistons pressed off first, THEN the Rods resized, THEN re-install the Pistons.
Good Luck with your rebuild.
Only wimps wear Bowties !