What to use on black underhood portions

[FrnkNsteen]

So I'm painting up some of the underhood parts/areas that should be black. I assume, from all the cars I've seen, that I want to paint those items/areas with a satin black. Don't want it gloss, and don't want it to look like black primer.

My question..... What should be used to paint these parts/areas satin black? The paint shop guy suggested straight black basecoat (no clear) because he said it will give me a nice satin color. Doesn't sound right to me, but I'm not a body guy. Someone told me they didn't agree with that either because basecoat has nothing to protect against wear or chemicals. Someone said to go ahead and use basecoat, but get a flattened clear to shoot over it. Another person suggested enamel with flattening agent added.

Thoughts or advice?? There's quite a bit to paint black, and I'm getting tired of buying paint, only to be told later that I shouldn't use that. Just wondering what others are using.

Thanks!

[Silver R/T]

base with flattened clear is best way as far as longevity goes

[jaak]

On parts I wanted to paint satin black, I used Kirker Brand "Hot Rod Black". Its a single stage urethane, they sell it in 3/4 gallons and you buy a quart of activator (mixes 3:1). Pretty good, durable paint...I think I paid around 80 bucks for the paint/hardener together.

Jason

[bill440rt]

If you want to go a cheaper route I've used Duplicolor Semi-Gloss black. Or, you could use SEM's Trim Black.

[maxwellwedge]

There were at least 4 different blacks used on a factory car. Straight (Torsion Bars), 10-12%, 25% and 33% flattened black acrylic enamel - depending on the part.

I think I posted a chart on here a year or 2 ago...

[FrnkNsteen]

Thanks for the info guys! Since I already have the base coat they sold me, I will probably go with the flattened clear, so I can use what I've already bought. I will keep the Hot Rod Black in mind for the future.

I tried the different aerosol satins and semi-glosses, and have had a terrible time getting an even finish, or I got blushing and water condensation because it was too humid, and had to redo it. Decided I was done with the rattle cans and bought a decent HVLP gun to shoot things. I'll probably still use cans for certain things like eastwood specialty colors for cast parts, cad parts, etc. etc., and basically anything small that doesn't justify buying a quart or more.

As for the "right" black. Thanks for the info, but my car isn't numbers matching so I'm not too worried about getting the "perfect" finish in the right places. The original motor was long gone before I got it (20+ years ago), so I am planning on just doing a nice resto that is close to original, but definitely not concourse accurate. It will be a nice driver quality restoration that I can enjoy without worrying about every thing too much.

Thanks again guys!! Great information!

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

If you want to go a cheaper route I've used Duplicolor Semi-Gloss black. Or, you could use SEM's Trim Black.

or Eastwood's Under Hood Black.....

[440]

Clear tends to go yellow overtime with heat and age.... I personally wouldn't use it.

[gtx6970]

I use mix and spray paints almost exclusivly.

the rattle can stuff never seems to hold up over time for me.

You can buy a decent small HVLP gun in  the $50 range 

[jaak]

On parts I wanted to paint satin black, I used Kirker Brand "Hot Rod Black". Its a single stage urethane, they sell it in 3/4 gallons and you buy a quart of activator (mixes 3:1). Pretty good, durable paint...I think I paid around 80 bucks for the paint/hardener together.

Jason

Here is a pic of the 'HotRod Black' Single stage satin urethane on the tailpan of my charger....


Jason