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UPPER CONTROL ARM NUT SPEC

Started by Bayareacharger, February 23, 2011, 12:27:27 PM

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Bayareacharger

Question...The manual states that the nut on the upper control arm (UCA) from the ball joint thru the spindle is spec'd at 100 ft lbs.  I can't get a torque wrench in there to tighten.  Should I tighten as tight as I can, or is there a way to gauge.  Right now the nut is tightened enough to insert the cotter pin and that is it.  Doesn't seem right.  Don't want to over or under tighten.  Secondly how much of the threads should be visible as a reference for the cotter pin to be inserted.  A picture would help alot if you have it.  Thank you in advance from a YOUNG GUN, trying to preserve these wonderful cars.
It doesn't matter how your car looks, as long as you have one.

elacruze

What do you have for a torque wrench? My Snap-On 1/2" fit in there just fine.

1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

Bayareacharger

that could be the answer..mine is 3/4
It doesn't matter how your car looks, as long as you have one.

Bayareacharger

It doesn't matter how your car looks, as long as you have one.

elacruze

If you're using a beam-type wrench I could see that the wrench plus socket would be too tall. The Snappy wrench is no deeper than a regular ratchet.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

Bayareacharger

I'm I correct with the 100 lb for spec?
It doesn't matter how your car looks, as long as you have one.

elacruze

Quote from: Bayareacharger on February 23, 2011, 03:01:29 PM
I'm I correct with the 100 lb for spec?

Yes, I had to triple check and double-prove that number because it seemed mighty tight to me at the time.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

Bayareacharger

OK.  Still cant get it in there.  Will have to figure it out.  Should I pull Shock and try.???This is really puzzeling me cause to tighten the crown nut to 100 lbs would really place the crown waaaaay past the hole for the cotter pin, leaving to much room for crown nut to back off.


thanks for your input.
It doesn't matter how your car looks, as long as you have one.

elacruze

Could you have the upper and lower swapped? Here's a pic of mine-the upper nut was supplied by FirmFeel with the UCA and ball joint. The lower is stock Mopar, and is considerably shorter.

LOL I just remembered a buddy who used a bathroom scale to push against a wrench to torque a bolt. I don't remember the exact size of the wrench but you can do the math with the length and calculate the ft-lbs as wrench length as percentage of 12".





1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

gtx6970

just get it as tight as you can, then install the cotter pin, it'll be fine.


DO NOT back it off even a little bit install a cotter pin

bull

Ah, I was wondering where the big nut and washer were supposed to go. Didn't think about the upper ball joint.

I see you retained your old tri-top castle nut for the lower. :scratchchin: Should have gotten it plated. :nana:

Speaking of which, did you get your rotors plated or did you buy them already plated? They look too nice and shiny to be regular off-the-shelf Fury rotors.