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Exhaust - clamp or weld?

Started by twodko, December 15, 2010, 03:11:53 PM

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twodko

The solution is obvious but I'd like membership opinions. I bought an exhaust system from Accurate Exhaust Products that's a mirror image of an OEM system right down to the chrome tips. Beautiful mandrel bends and the "H" pipe is a work of art. I'm very happy with it but the pipes that connect to the ones that go over the axle are attached with muffler clamps that came with the system. The clamps are tight but there is some nasty looking black exhaust residue blowing out of the joint.
Were the factory exhaust systems clamped together like this or were they welded? I'm getting these joints welded but I'm curious what MaMopar did back in the day and what members with similar systems have done. Thanks
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

tan top

  got TTI & clamps :yesnod:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

John_Kunkel

The factory clamped everything. I prefer band clamps to the traditional "U" clamps.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-33226/?rtype=10
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

maxwellwedge

Except non-Hemi E-Body resonators  ;D

twodko

Thanks TT, your pipes are clean at the slip joint. TTI must be a tighter fit than the system on my car. Another quandary...............I'm not hard core "gotta be factory correct" but welding the pipes up would really stand out as "not the way they did it at the factory". The exhaust stains at that joint are ugly on my car........what to do.......what to do.

If I knew how to propose a poll it would be:

A. Old school clamps
B. Band clamps
C. Welded
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

maxwellwedge

Quote from: twodko on December 15, 2010, 08:14:53 PM
Thanks TT, your pipes are clean at the slip joint. TTI must be a tighter fit than the system on my car. Another quandary...............I'm not hard core "gotta be factory correct" but welding the pipes up would really stand out as "not the way they did it at the factory". The exhaust stains at that joint are ugly on my car........what to do.......what to do.

If I knew how to propose a poll it would be:

A. Old school clamps
B. Band clamps
C. Welded

Replace the clamps with new ones - now that there is some squish around the pipe maybe you can crank the new clamps a little tighter.....worked for me on a car with the same problem.....bring up both nuts on the clamp slowly and evenly.

Cooter

I don't know bout you guys, but I took one of my cars to a muffler shop here and while they did and excellent job, I found it was nearly impossible to do a clutch without cutting all that WELDED piping....I now build my own exhaust systems using mandrel bends from junkyard "Y" pipes off newer trucks/vans etc. for the bends. Sure it has alot of welds in the system, but it works. I have learned now that the "X" pipe ("H" pipe for you factory correct guys), needs to be removable in order to make swapping out a clutch easier. Therefore, I now use "Slip joint", "Bubble" flanges, or band clamps on the "X" pipe...I never run the header three bolt flange with gaskets either. Those get cut off flush, and  "Bubble", or "Slip" joint gets installed for a leak free system..This may not be the ideal set up for some of you guys, but for the guys looking to put together a 2 1/2" -3" system  for less than $100.00 (Less mufflers), this is the ticket. The Slip joint is nothing more than a pipe inside the other with nuts welded on each side of the two pipes, and a bolt through them..Works great, but does leave that occasional black residue that some of you guys might be a little upset over...Again, I have to do all my own work on my cars, so anything that makes it easier to do is done....
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

elacruze

1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

68X426



The 12 Scariest Words in the English Language:
We are Here from The Government and
We Want to Help You.

1968 Plymouth Road Runner, Hemi and much more
2013 Dodge Challenger RT, Hemi, Plum Crazy
2014 Ram 4x4 Hemi, Deep Cherry Pearl
1968 Dodge Charger, 318, not much else
1958 Dodge Pick Up, 383, loud
1966 Dodge Van, /6, slow

tan top

Quote from: twodko on December 15, 2010, 08:14:53 PM
Thanks TT, your pipes are clean at the slip joint. TTI must be a tighter fit than the system on my car. Another quandary...............I'm not hard core "gotta be factory correct" but welding the pipes up would really stand out as "not the way they did it at the factory". The exhaust stains at that joint are ugly on my car........what to do.......what to do.

If I knew how to propose a poll it would be:

A. Old school clamps
B. Band clamps
C. Welded


yes !! they are really close !! well exact smooth fit !! , if i were to do it again would use a band clamps as Ron suggested! , but these are  what came with the tti set up & just used them !!
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

twodko

Thanks gentlemen, all great comments. The least expensive first choice (Cooter I'm with you regarding DIY) is going to be a couple new clamps and see if they'll cinch down tighter. Band clamps will be the next option because I'd rather not weld these pipes up. :cheers:
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

terrible one

My exhaust is fully welded together from where it bolts to the header flange to the exhaust tips, with an H pipe. So it really is just one big piece. I thought that it would be a real pain to pull it when I had to take the transmission out, but it really wasn't bad. All I had to do was raise the car up by the frame rails, unbolt the rear shocks and let the rear end drop so that there is plenty of space between the housing and the floor pan. Then, just unbolted it from the headers, pulled it over the rear end, and it was out! Though it was easier than I thought, it sure would have been nice if it was clamped to the mufflers at least, that would make things much easier.

FWIW, my experience with the exhaust clamps (U style, not the band clamps) is that they need to be tighter than you would ever think! We just finished up a '63 Corvette chassis at school and all said and done that thing had like 7 or 8 clamps holding the entire system together and every one of them leaked! My teacher told me to tighten them all up REALLY tight. I'm a big guy and got them what I thought was way tight . . . that eliminated some of the leaking but you could still feel exhaust coming out at the joints. Then my teacher got over there and said they weren't tight enough and wrenched on them w/ a 3/4 drive until I thought they would break! But, that got them tight enough and the thing was sealed pretty damn good. So, remember that you are effectively crushing exhaust pipe and you need to WRENCH on them to get them to seal!

twodko

Thanks Bro. That's is the cheapest fix yet........I'm already in the garage!
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

terrible one

Right on! I wish you luck! I figure the worst you will do is strip one and then you will need another clamp, but it's not like it'll get stuck on there or anything if you do that. Give 'em hell!  :lol: