Removing the Dashpad from a 73 Charger

[Judhudson]

I have plans this week to remove my dash and repair it.  I know that in the first and second generation chargers, removing the windsheild is necessary to get to the bolts in the dash pad.  Is it the same for 3rd generations?  I'm not even sure where to begin to look for the mounting bolts for the dash.   

[B Bodyman]

yes,I just pulled the pad from a '72 Charger on a customer resto,I pulled the glass and it was a matter of maybe 45 minutes to remove it,including dropping the steer column,then just rolling the dash frame over and removing the pad,a/c vents,removed and some wiring,set aside,I didn't take the dash frame all the way out yet,as I haven't brought the car into the shop yet,just wanted the pad sent off to have refinished.

[NHCharger]

I replaced the dashpad in my 71 Charger about 9 years ago. I did not have to remove the windshield. I did remove the front seats which made it a lot easier to work in the car. I took me about 10 hours from start to finish but this was my first time ever attempting something like this. Also my 71 is a A/C car and there seems to be twice as much duct work under the dash compared to my non A/C 72 Charger. There's a lot of bolts holding the dashpad on, also as mentioned you need to drop the steering wheel and remove the instrument cluster.

[Drop Top]

I too have replaced the pad on 3rd generation Charges without having to remove the windshield. It is a bit easier to do it if the glass is out of the way. The reason you have to remove the glass from earlier years. Is there is bolts that are underneath the glass. They are not present on the 3rd gens.

[Beer]

I pulled my dash a couple days ago, here are some pics of the backside that may help you.
As for drivers side, I am guessing if you pull the guage cluster you can find the rest.

3/8" socket on a 1/4" drive should do it. once loose they spin pretty easy by hand.
If I recall correctly the ones by the front speaker were phillips head screws.

[Nacho-RT74]

same as above... don't need to remove windshield.

concerned to Dash pad, it is possible remove without remove the complete dash frame but is a pain even if you know where are the nuts... GREAT PICS BEER... there are the nuts, only rest one nut on driver side area, above the A/C vent, simetrically to the far away left nut on first pic uploaled by Beer. If you think is hard to remove it without remove teh dash frame IS WAY HARD TRY TO INSTALL IT AGAIN...

thanks for that pic... now I KNOW where goes attached the seatbelt buzzer on dash frame ( white piece on pics with two prongs on two first pics ).

BUT same as Beer did, is easier to remove the complete frame... 4 3/8" bolts below the speaker grille, and 2 7/16" I think bolts behind the kick panels what need only to be loosen and not removed...

you need first unplugg all the wiring to unjoin it from body ( brake switch, hazzard flasher, side wiring to rear section, dome light, unbolt bulkhead unplugging all the engine bay wiring and speedo wire, antenna wire, temp control wire and A/C heather vacuum lines )

drop the column and remove the bolts from column brackets.

remove the speaker grille is just three phillips screws and 4 1/4" screws at windshield vents area

[Beer]

If you need more photos let me know, I have not taken anything off yet on the dash.

[Judhudson]

Beer, I really appreciate the photos - that solves the problem on how to take out the dash. 

I ran into another problem though.  I looked for the bolts to take the whole frame out.  I found 2 (the ones that are behind the kickpanel) but I don't see the others.  Could you please write some short steps on what you did to get to those bolts?  I'm guessing you have to take the glove box out and all of the goodies, but I don't even know where to begin.  Thanks bud!

[Beer]

I will take pictures of the mounting points for the dash frame to the body...I think its best to remove the windshield for it, it sure was handy reaching through to disconnect the vacuum lines and harness in the back, also the two nuts that hold the steering column on have to come out...it woulda sucked had the windshield been in place (but possible maybe...)

[Nacho-RT74]

trust me buddy, definitelly don't need remove windshield...

to be able to see the 4 3/8" bolts on top that keeps in place the frame you need first to remove the speaker grille what it has 3 phillips screws and 4 1/4" screws at windshield vents outlets. After remove the speaker grille you will be able to see those 4 bolts 3/8" also close to windshield, also at the sides of windshield vent outlets.

once the complete frame is out, don't even need remove anything from frame ( glovebox, ashtray etc ) to remove dash pad, but sure you will have more clearance to remove and install it if you do.

Note... don't remove the 2 bolts down the frame... just loose, since all teh weight is over them and will be easier to let it rest until you remove the 4 bolts from top, and pull it.

[Beer]

First three top bolts from the drivers side.



The passenger side bolt (and two middle ones again)



Steering column is all thread with three nuts



Side Bolt drivers side



Side Bolt Pass side

[Judhudson]

Man, these pics are great Beer...  I took the speaker cover off, and now I see the bolts.  So I'm in the process of taking all of the wires and small stuff out so I can pull off the frame.

Why I'm at it, I have another question.  What black spraypaint can I use to paint the metal part?  I'm going from green to black, and the spraypaint I have now is really cheap - .99$ a can.  I'm looking for something that will stick to metal and not flake off.  Any ideas? 

[Beer]

Nope but I am going to find out, I am going to Black on mine also...

[Nacho-RT74]

It looks I'm not the only une with the black burned spot on ignition switch wiring on the red wire isolator hole LOL...

[Beer]

What you mean this???



Guess this is common???

What is that wire???

[Nacho-RT74]

is the lead positive source to AAAAAALLL the car. Red is input to ignition switch. Blue, yellow, brown and black are all the outputs.

two small gauge reds are the key in buzzer sensor, oragne is the ilumination to the gear selector on column.

[Nacho-RT74]

Buddy... do you have untouched quarters ?... please check for the thread I started on paint and body section.

[andy74]

damn i was thinking about pulling my dash out this winter,it looks like a giant head ache waiting to happen! i will probably pull the glass out also,as my windshield has a lot of fine scratches(old age)that i may replace the windshield also-as long as i can find a good replacement.looks like the job would be much easier that way!

[Nacho-RT74]

is not really a headache... in fact is pretty simple with or without windshield