Wheelbase length problems on 70 cuda

[javakmcharger68]

So I bought a 1970 barracuda 383 4speed car that needed work for a project. I noticed that the passenger side front wheel was not sitting in the middle of the wheelwell. It looked like it was sitting a little forward. I checked the drivers side to see if it looked the same, but it looked correct. So I went online and found the proper wheelbase length(108") to measure the two sides & see if I was wrong about there being a problem. Turns out that my passenger side was 108 1/2" & my drivers side is 108". My torsion bar on the passenger side also looked like it was not fully back in the mount hole in the cross member. When i bought this car the front valance was smashed in like it was ramped off something, but everything else looked ok. The LCA(82459 on both LCA) looks like it was replaced on the passenger side at one time. My question is this. Except for the frame being bent, what else could cause this. Could a A-body LCA do this maybe. I been looking at everything for three days & running out of ideas. I will take any help at this point. If you need pics of something, just let me know. I read somewhere that there was a old racecar or dragcar trick to do this for some reason. The guy i bought the car off of only bought the car a couple of months before me buying it off him, & is not even calling me back. Idaho car if anyone knows it let me know.

[doctor4766]

Umm I assume these have similar castor arms to B bodies.
We shortened mine on both sides to pull the front wheels forward for better handling.
Dunno for sure but maybe there was some damage to one side and either a longer one or shorter one was fitted than was in there.....?

[The70RT]

Did you check your strut rod bushings?

[javakmcharger68]

To me, the strut looks ok. All the bushing on the front have to be replaced though. Half and inch is a lot to be out though, is it not? I know this thing has been in an accident at one point in time. The frame rail on passenger side has some damage. If the car was street worthy, I would just go get it checked out. Here are some pics

[javakmcharger68]

anoth pic

[javakmcharger68]

pic

[javakmcharger68]

door jam drivers side

[The70RT]

Frame doesnt look like it was distorted much. Door and fender gap looks pretty good. I would probably get it drivable and have it put on a frame machine. Maybe someone else will chime in.

[javakmcharger68]

The only way to know for sure what is going on, is to send it to an alignment shop. I found paperwork for the brakes & tires being done at a LesSchwab shop. When I pulled the front & back drums off, it looks like everything is new(Adjusted right & everything).Emergency brakes works perfect! I can't see alignment shop letting this go though.Tires are good also. Thats why I'm so confused.

Thank you for the replies, it always helps me hearing an opinion from someone else

[RallyeMike]

There is slop in where the T-bar might sit so that is not unusual. The fame just looks like the run of the mill damage to a bottom of a car. Between the rear springs, axle mount, front alignment, and how straight the wheels were pointed when you measured, not to mention human error in measuring, 1/2" is nothing. Lastly, wreck damage would more than likely show a shorter wheelbase on one side - not longer.

BTW - One sided wheelbase changes is circle track trick, not drag racing!

[maxwellwedge]

Frame doesnt look like it was distorted much. Door and fender gap looks pretty good. I would probably get it drivable and have it put on a frame machine. Maybe someone else will chime in.

Always a good idea.
Every Mopar ever put on a frame machine is twisted one way or another. It should always be the first thing done before any restoration.....and it usually isn't.

[bull]

Maybe this is nothing but is that nut on front of the strut tightened down too far? I thought it's just supposed to be tightened down to just behind the roll pin hole but that one is 2-3 threads beyond that. If the nut on the other side is not tightened down as far that might account for some of the difference. I don't remember where mine was now it's been so long since I took it apart.

You might take a hard look at that LCA too. Stock LCAs aren't the toughest suspension part ever built and it could be bent and/or twisted.

[Ghoste]

You might take a hard look at that LCA too. Stock LCAs aren't the toughest suspension part ever built and it could be bent and/or twisted.

Agreed, it's more common than you might think too.  I wouldn't go as far as saying it's a frequent thing but it isn't exactly rare.

[elacruze]

I wouldn't be concerned about severe damage. Just get all the pieces checked out, and have a competent frame shop measure up. Adjusting the wheelbase is easy enough, even if the support is a little off you can use adjustable strut rods.

Very few alignment shops look at the thrust angle on light vehicles, and would not likely mention your wheelbase issue if the alignment angles were all within spec. You'll have to chase down a very good shop and specify that you want the car straight and square, and be prepared to pay for that-they will likely have to shim the rear spring hangars and adjust strut rods.

[HPP]

BTW - One sided wheelbase changes is circle track trick, not drag racing!

Both use it. Oval track use it to stablize corner motion, drag racers use it to trick the e.t. lights during staging and starting. Because the offset wheel base tricks the lights in to thinking your still in the beams, you can stage the car deeper and put the car closer to the finish line. You can also use it to fine tune the cars reaction time if the driver has trouble splitting lights.