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Broke off bolt in head

Started by R6red4spd69RT, November 11, 2010, 03:58:33 PM

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R6red4spd69RT

Damn, if it's not one thing it's another!

I broke the alternator bolt off when replacing the fan clutch. Is this something a shop should handle or is it pretty easy to take care of on my own?

As you can tell, I have no experience with broken off bolts.

Thanks

bull

Get all the stuff out of the way you can, starting with the alternator, and then do your best to center punch the broken bolt in the center. The first thing I would do after that is drill a small pilot hole (like 1/8") and then get yourself a 1/4" left-hand drill bit and start drilling it in reverse. In many cases a left-hand drill bit will catch an edge and unscrew a broken bolt by itself. If that doesn't work get yourself an extractor (Lowe's, Home Depot or any parts store usually has them for a few bucks) and try backing it out with that. If neither of those ideas work it's time to introduce some heat to the situation. :2thumbs:

Was that a grade 8 bolt or a grade 5?

chargd72

Worry not, I just did the same thing a couple of weeks ago.  Except mine was the rocker bolt in the head.  Very simpe to do, just take you time.  I went to Advanced auto and got a set of extraction bits for like $6.  All you need to do is punch the center of the snapped bolt.  Oil up a small enough bit so you can get about a half inch into the bolt WITHOUT HITTING ANY OF THE THREADING!!!  That is the most important part.  Once you have a nice little hole in the broken bolt, your extraction bit will have a reverse threading to pull it right out.  It was my first time doing this as well.  Like I said, very easy.  Just don't rush.

          '72 Charger SE 4bbl 318                          '76 Power Wagon 400 W200                                 2011 (attempt at a) Charger

chargd72


          '72 Charger SE 4bbl 318                          '76 Power Wagon 400 W200                                 2011 (attempt at a) Charger

bull

Quote from: chargd72 on November 11, 2010, 04:18:28 PM
Beat me to it, Bull     :laugh:

You had some good points I didn't cover though. It never hurts to get similar advice from two or more people just to fill in the gaps. :icon_smile_cool:

frederick

They can be a dog to get out.
You can get tools such as the EZ-out.
http://www.brokentap.com/easy-outs.html
But they hardly ever work and break easily, IMHO.

The way I like to do it:
1. Center-punch the broken bolt.
2. Drill a hole with a drill bit all the way through the bolt.
Drill bit should be as large as possible, but not so large that it damages the thread.
Drill carefully, you don't want to drill into the head.
3. Spray penetrating oil in the hole.
4. Hammer in a Torx bit.
5. Gently screw out the broken bolt

Another way would be to weld on a nut, but it looks like your bolt is too far in the head for that.

However, given that you have no experience, my advice would be to let a shop take care of it.

R6red4spd69RT

It's a grade 8 bolt. Does that change anything?

And thank you for your responses.

bull

Quote from: R6red4spd69RT on November 11, 2010, 04:33:35 PM
It's a grade 8 bolt. Does that change anything?

No, I only asked because I was curious.

BBKNARF

Quote from: frederick on November 11, 2010, 04:29:35 PM
They can be a dog to get out.
You can get tools such as the EZ-out.
http://www.brokentap.com/easy-outs.html
But they hardly ever work and break easily, IMHO.

The way I like to do it:
1. Center-punch the broken bolt.
2. Drill a hole with a drill bit all the way through the bolt.
Drill bit should be as large as possible, but not so large that it damages the thread.
Drill carefully, you don't want to drill into the head.
3. Spray penetrating oil in the hole.
4. Hammer in a Torx bit.
5. Gently screw out the broken bolt

Another way would be to weld on a nut, but it looks like your bolt is too far in the head for that.

However, given that you have no experience, my advice would be to let a shop take care of it.
:iagree:
68 Charger, slowly in the works, 451 c.i. approx. 535 hp @ the flywheel, so far best time in the 1/4
11.21 @ 119 mph, full exhaust, stock suspension, 4:10s @ 3640 pounds.

Al

Keep us informed of how it went.
1968 Dodge Charger, 383, UU1

elacruze

Quote from: BBKNARF on November 11, 2010, 10:00:31 PM
Quote from: frederick on November 11, 2010, 04:29:35 PM
They can be a dog to get out.
You can get tools such as the EZ-out.
http://www.brokentap.com/easy-outs.html
But they hardly ever work and break easily, IMHO.

The way I like to do it:
1. Center-punch the broken bolt.
2. Drill a hole with a drill bit all the way through the bolt.
Drill bit should be as large as possible, but not so large that it damages the thread.
Drill carefully, you don't want to drill into the head.
3. Spray penetrating oil in the hole.
4. Hammer in a Torx bit.
5. Gently screw out the broken bolt

Another way would be to weld on a nut, but it looks like your bolt is too far in the head for that.

However, given that you have no experience, my advice would be to let a shop take care of it.
:iagree:
X3.

Particularly since it is a grade 8 bolt, we already know it's tight as heck. I've screwed myself enough times to know your chance of success is pretty low, and most likely you'll be head-in-hand looking for a shop with an EDM to cut the extractor out of the hardened bolt.

However, if you're very brave and very careful, you might do this and win a big prize. Here's what I think is important.

1. DO NOT FAIL to get a good pilot mark in the center of the bolt. If you are off ANY you will end up in the threads. DO NOT FAIL to keep the drill straight down the bolt or you will end up in the threads.
2. Buy the highest quality reverse cut bits you can afford.
3. Drill all the way through the bolt. If the bolt is bottomed in the hole, be very aware of the feel and material the drill removes; you can tell steel from iron.
4. Use KROIL if you can find it, or SeaFoam penetrating oil. PB blaster is a distant 3rd in my opinion. Let it soak at least overnight.
5. Find a drift just the size of the bolt and give it a few real hard whacks just before attempting the removal.
6. This is most important-do not get frustrated and break the extractor off in the bolt. That's the end.
:Twocents:
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

nvrbdn

elacruze hits the nail....er bolt on the head  :yesnod: definately follow his directions  :2thumbs:
70 Dodge Charger 500
70 Duster (Moulin Rouge)
73 Challenger
50 Dodge Pilot House

chargd72

How far into the hole is the break?  It doesn't look quite flush with the surface.  One thing I left out was how I drilled the center and kept it straight.  I took the broken bolt to Lowes and found a some nuts and coupled the outside (hex side) of the nut with the circumference of the bolt so that the nut would tightly fit in the hole of the snapped bolt.  You might want an extra set of hands to help you with this, now put the nut in the hole and hold tightly with some grips so it doesn't spin while you drill.  Now use the inside of the nut for a bit size and guide.  You will only get a little drilling done before you have to switch out the nut.  That's why you should get a handfull.  I think I went thru about 5 nuts but it kept me straight and in the center.  Kind of a strange approach but it worked for me.  Just a suggestion if you try to tackle it yourself. 

          '72 Charger SE 4bbl 318                          '76 Power Wagon 400 W200                                 2011 (attempt at a) Charger

frederick

How much force did you need to break the bolt?
If it wasn't much it could be the bolt had a fatigue crack, also considering the place at which it broke.

The more force you needed to break the bolt, the harder it will be to extract.
So if you hardly put any strain on it to break it, you could diy, otherwise let someone else take care of it.

Oh it maybe be nothing but I didn't see a spacer, you did have a spacer between the alternator and the head, didn't you?
You don't want the bolt bottomed out in the head.

R6red4spd69RT

The bolt is broken all the way in. When I attempted to loosen up the bolt to replace the fan clutch it broke. I know, that sucks.

I have to decide now whether to take a stab at this over the winter months or wait to have a shop handle it.

I've been doing a lot of work on my car myself lately but I don't want to mess up on the head.

Well, now that winter's here I have time to take it slow and do it right. I'll keep you all posted on what the outcome is.

bull

Take your time. I bet it won't be as difficult as you think it will. By the time you deal with all the hassle and expense of messing around with a shop you could have it out. :2thumbs:

1969chargerrtse

Quote from: R6red4spd69RT on November 13, 2010, 12:47:25 AM
The bolt is broken all the way in. When I attempted to loosen up the bolt to replace the fan clutch it broke. I know, that sucks.

I have to decide now whether to take a stab at this over the winter months or wait to have a shop handle it.

I've been doing a lot of work on my car myself lately but I don't want to mess up on the head.

Well, now that winter's here I have time to take it slow and do it right. I'll keep you all posted on what the outcome is.
Do it yourself, it's not hard at all as the guys explained.  I would start with a small hole and extractor and if it still won't come out then drill a little larger.  Most bolts come out easy as long as they went in easy.  It's the bolts that went in stripped and with force that are real hard to remove.  Once you break it loose it'll probably come out with just a turn from your finger tips.
Oh yeah we've all been there on this on. :yesnod:
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

tan top

what the other guys say  :yesnod: :2thumbs: !!  also sometimes heating the surounding area with a torch , then un screwing can make a big difference  :yesnod:
if none of the above works  , when  was the last time the motor had a valve job ? whip the heads off  do the valves , swap heads side to side when you put it back  !! make sure the oil feed hole in the head is clear though  :yesnod:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

gtx6970

 my :Twocents:

how hard it's going to be to remove . depends on WHY it's broken in the 1st place

Cooter

Just remember, we are all in that repair with you...There are Heli-Coil kits out there like 5/16"X13, or 3/8"Xwhatever that you can retap the hole and install stainless steel thread inserts in that head so there's no way to MAJORLY screw the head up...just don't bore the drill bit ALL THE WAY THROUGH...only go as far as the bolts threads....This is pretty much a "feel" type thing...You'll feel it drop through the end of the bolt...


Even if the trheads get "Touched" by the drill bit, you always have this as a last resort..I do this type reapir for a living and this is most times how i HAVE TO repair broken bolts that weren't greased when last installed. ALWAYS PUT A DAB OF GREASE ON THE THREADS WHEN GOING BACK TOGETHER..Anti-sieze is good too....Good luck, and I don't care if it's fifty questions, I'm here ot try and help you get through this bolt...
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

bull

This might be a good time to mention that life is made easier when you clean the threads up before installing bolts. I almost always chase threads with a tap before reinstalling bolts into previously used holes. Never Seize makes life better too.