So what the hell happen to the superbird rear window moldings??????

[DoubleDlover]

actualy you can clearly see NO slip joints on the trim on PG's site. Yes. The moldings from them and from mike are one in the same. He told me that as well. Im not saying the moldings are no good just because theres no slip joints. I will be happy to get them. Hell of a lot better then what i can come up with. Im just hoping someone knows or has a way to flair out the ones that have it. Because actualy. The joints on the sides dont have slip joints. The factory actulay made one molding smaller on one end to slip into the other. The slip joints are at the 12 oclock and 6 oclock possisions. anyone here who has a real bist go out and look at yours and you will see what im talkign about and make can explain it better. Or even ad a pic. ron

[62 Max]

Like this

[DoubleDlover]

62 MAX.. YES!!!  As you can see. Instead of the one molding flaired out its actualy flaired in a little and slips into the molding next to it. So not having the slip joint there wouldnt be so noticable. But the ones like i said atteh 12 and 6 oclock possistios Do have the normal joints we are all use to seeing. So. since mike is making them all longer. Thats great. all we have to do is find someone who can put the flair in them for us. or figure out how to do it ourselfs and we are in great shape. Im still super happy that he is making them and i'll still be happy to buy a set. Like i said. Its better then anything i could have done. If the factory could stamp in the joint. Im sure someone out there in the world can also.

[superbirdtom]

you know  I sure don't mind as 99% of the work is done and something  really close has been made. and I appreciate that

[DoubleDlover]

yes i agree. I apperciate all teh work and trouble mike is going though to do this not only for him to make some money but for us and the hobbie. I think if he gets it that close. Thats wonderfull. And if we all get lucky and find someone that can do that one part to make it complete. Then yay for everyone. So. Where would we look to have something done like that? makign the slip joints?

[superbirdtom]

I would do it myself as i have experience in fabricaton the two factory slip joints at 12 and 6 oclock  are male and female joints. I would just call b/e and a and see if they would send me mine without those side joints and then flare out the female ones at 12 and 6 oclock.

[DoubleDlover]

i would love some ideas on how to flair out those ends without screwing up the moldings

[nascarxx29]

    I was able to take a non superbird upper side from 70 rr cant recall what side it was .And with a original damaged piece used for a template modify it.Copy it.And it fit .The bottoms pieces no luck duplicating them there unique

[62 Max]

    I was able to take a non superbird upper side from 70 rr cant recall what side it was .And with a original damaged piece used for a template modify it.Copy it.And it fit .The bottoms pieces no luck duplicating them there unique

Dave,you can only do that with the driver side top.You can use the pasenger side but after you cut it to length you have to use the expanded 1" piece as a connector.

[superbirdtom]

to create the slipjoint I would use bending force not anything with a hammering motion, I would maybe use some reverse pliers that I would fabricate to open the channel while having the piece locked in place at the point where the flare would begin. Id have to get measurement of factory flange . I would only use pressure to form the outward bump on the female part. I would like also to know  what stainless the piece is made of ,(304 stainless )an austinetic grade or what ,to know how much bending it can hack without cracking.

                                  I never think that far ahead I just know  I could probably do it and only really figure out how when I have the piece in front of me. I have a couple extra pieces of stainless coronet rr trim I would practice on first.  If I ever do do it I will take pics to share, I am sure the female end is exactly the same dimentions  as a 70 runner maybe contoure is different  but at least get practice on a factory piece first.

[superbirdtom]

    I was able to take a non superbird upper side from 70 rr cant recall what side it was .And with a original damaged piece used for a template modify it.Copy it.And it fit .The bottoms pieces no luck duplicating them there unique

_____________________I have always wondered if any pieces from a  70 4 door coronet rear window trim could be used as I believe they are unique to that car only. and the window although squarer is closer than any other trim I can think of. I believe the 70 coronet 4 door rear window trim is very close to a daytona.   anyone care to comment  i could be totally wrong.

[62 Max]

to create the slipjoint I would use bending force not anything with a hammering motion, I would maybe use some reverse pliers that I would fabricate to open the channel while having the piece locked in place at the point where the flare would begin. Id have to get measurement of factory flange . I would only use pressure to form the outward bump on the female part. I would like also to know  what stainless the piece is made of ,(304 stainless )an austinetic grade or what ,to know how much bending it can hack without cracking.

                                  I never think that far ahead I just know  I could probably do it and only really figure out how when I have the piece in front of me. I have a couple extra pieces of stainless coronet rr trim I would practice on first.  If I ever do do it I will take pics to share, I am sure the female end is exactly the same dimentions  as a 70 runner maybe contoure is different  but at least get practice on a factory piece first.

If you have 70 RR/Coronet top trim,you have what you need.Configuration is identical.The bottom is the problem.I think the 4dr is a different shape/smaller in width.

[Daytona R/T SE]

You can join two pieces of stainless rear window trim without flaring it.

Just think about that orange plastic hotwheels track we all had as a kid.


I touched on this briefly in my thread about my home made Daytona rear window trim:


http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,21596.0.html

[superbirdtom]

yeah thats true they would be butted against each other with a toung holding them together.  I still have all my hot wheels track wheel shaped carry case and those little buildings with the battery operated wheels that shoot the cars around the oval track with the original box.  my fastest HW car was a bright pink lincon continental.  they sit on a shelf in my garage now.

[oldcarnut]

billssuperbird posted this on another thread.
"ted janck told me to use left and right top rear of a1970 rr. for the top left and right on the superbird. and cut to fit. then he told me to use the left and right top rear of 1970 charger. then take the right top rear of the charger and put on left lower rear of the superbird. and cut + bend to fit.then take the left top rear of 1970 charger and put on right rear lower of 1970 superbird. and cut + bend to fit.  ted will do this but i do not know what it cost. i hope this will help you."
It's been a while when I bought my kit but I remember Ted telling me about the same thing.

[charge-it]

so p.g. classics is in Canada and B/E a is in america. I can see both working with same tooling company's on some but not all parts, as on B/E and A website they say they make their own tooling and have total control over the whole manufactuering process.             

                                       Of course all I am interested at this time is the s-bird rear window trim. why would anyone go to the trouble at B/E a to make superbird rear window trim without the sleeves when P.G. classics makes it already with the sleeves??

Tom, did they tell you that their parts would have the slip joints or are you going by a pic of the part? I'll bet the pic that they're using is of an original set of moldings since they've had a pic of the moldings on their website long before the new parts ever came out of the new tooling.

I am just going by the pic of the moulding.   my god if theyre going to use a pic of a factory moulding and then sell a different one without being exact as original.  I would be blazing mad if I spent the 1300 dollars and it wasn't the same as factory.   They need to get that pic off there and put on the one theyre selling!

Back to what I said earlier,make the damn thing right or don't make it at all.There is too much of that right now on a lot of reproduction parts.

How about a list of all the repop parts that are made wrong that you know of so we don't waste our time or money on incorrect parts?

[rob-dirt]

well their on the ebay now take a look

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-Mopar-Superbird-Rear-Window-Molding-Set-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5888bc4c18QQitemZ380251163672QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories