News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

adjusting initial timing -

Started by Charger72SE, May 30, 2010, 05:49:46 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Charger72SE

I adjusted the initial timing to get max RPM and noticed after I was done that I left my Automatic transmission in Neutral.

is an Automatic tranny suppose to be in Park or Neutral during setting/adjusting the Timing?

I'm wondering if I need to do it again in Park.

thanks much!

Charger´69

Quote from: Charger72SE on May 30, 2010, 05:49:46 PM
I adjusted the initial timing to get max RPM and noticed after I was done that I left my Automatic transmission in Neutral.

is an Automatic tranny suppose to be in Park or Neutral during setting/adjusting the Timing?

I'm wondering if I need to do it again in Park.

thanks much!

I don´t think that it matters in whitch gear your tranny is when you adjust initial timing  :shruggy: In my opinion you don´t have to do it again, it should be same both in neutral or park or even in R or D and so on...  ::)
Plymouth Fury "Christine's Sister" 4x4 6-71 1959
Dodge Charger R/T 440cid 1969
Pontiac Trans Am T-top SuperBandit 400cid 1978
Jeep Cherokee Renegade 4x4 3.7 2006

Back N Black

Neutral or park should be the same results, but its good pratice to set in neutral because the 727 trans oil pump don't work in park. Even if you car is just sitting idling in park its not good for the trans.

Charger72SE

thanks Back N Black!!  I didn't know about the trans oil pump

flyinlow

When setting the timing only two things matter idle rpm and vacuum advance disconected.

A stock Torqueflight dos not recharge the torque conveter in park ,I think the pump still works. That why you check the fluid lever warmed up idling in neutral .

R2

I assume you also checked the TOTAL timing ? ( after you adjusted the initial )


flyinlow

Yes, checking the total mechanical advance (base timing + centrifical advance) is always a good idea.

A unmodified distributor may take up to 4000 rpm for full advance. Total should be 35-40* depending on the engine and year. As you increase the base timing the total mechanical will increase. If the car knocks under accelleration or is hard to crank over with a warm engine you will have to back it off some.

Charger72SE

thanks guys for your advice - yep, checking the mechanical advance tomorrow as well