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shift kit

Started by charger_mike75, March 01, 2010, 12:59:47 AM

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charger_mike75

Ok, I hope I put this in the right section. My wife will be the new owner of a '82 w150 pickup, my question is did these trucks come with a lock up converter tranny and if so is there a shift improver kit for lock up trannys? I'm not sure yet if it has a 904 or 727. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Cooter

Well, My '83 D-150 just has the good 'ol tried and true 727 without lock-up trans in it, so I would think yours would be the same...

I fabbed my own shift improver kit for mine, but I would think you could get on for your truck through TCI, or B&M...
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

John_Kunkel


A 4WD would have a 727, whether or not it's a lockup depends on the engine, both lockup and non-lockup were available in '82.

I would avoid any kit that's labeled "shift improver", go with a full reprogramming kit or leave it stock.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

charger_mike75

Well, the engine is a 318 4 bbl. I know B&m shift kits are good, my '73 crewcab has one.  I didn't know they still used non lockup trannys in the 80's. I'll be ecstatic if it is a non lockup  :yesnod:

RD

they used non-lock up tranny's all they way to '91 (even in some OD transmissions), it just depended on the application.  B&M are okay, but they are not the best out there.  Granted, a full reprogramming kit requires some more ingenuity if you have never done anything like this before, but either way you are splitting the VB apart to get into the guts of it.  Your desire, wallet stuffing, and ability will determine what you want.

Personally, I like the B&M shift kit, its easy to use for the beginner, doesnt require VB modification, and can be done in a couple of hours.  BUT... the reprogramming kits by transtar, B&M, transgo, etc. will be more efficient if your usage of the trans is more HD.
67 Plymouth Barracuda, 69 Plymouth Barracuda, 73 Charger SE, 75 D100, 80 Sno-Commander

John_Kunkel


The problem with "shift improver" kits and plate shift kits is that they don't address the servos. Without addressing the servos there is a chance for severe overlap on the shifts which is often mistaken for a "firm shift".
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

charger_mike75

Quote from: John_Kunkel on March 02, 2010, 03:44:01 PM

The problem with "shift improver" kits and plate shift kits is that they don't address the servos. Without addressing the servos there is a chance for severe overlap on the shifts which is often mistaken for a "firm shift".



How would one address the servos?

flyinlow

Quote from: John_Kunkel on March 02, 2010, 03:44:01 PM

The problem with "shift improver" kits and plate shift kits is that they don't address the servos. Without addressing the servos there is a chance for severe overlap on the shifts which is often mistaken for a "firm shift".

Yes please,explain.

If I understand ,the shift from first to second is done with the intermediate band appling. Seams pretty straight forward and most TF's have decent 1-2 shifts.
The second to third appears alot more tricky. Release the band while appling the direct clutch. Timing would seam to be the difficult part. Minimum overlap ,without reving up.   :shruggy:

Ghoste

Yes, there is a band applied in second (and first if you are shifting it manually) but the servo is what causes the band to apply and release.  The fluid flow to or from the servo piston must be quick enough to accomplish the desired shift while at the same time accomodating the overall engineered design of having the shifts seem smooth.  The two run contrary to one another and changing part of the valve body without addressing the parts that perform the actual "work" is not always the right way.  For example, with some shift kits ifhave the selector in low, then shift to second, one servo must release while the other is engaging.  There will be a time when the two servos are fighting each other and when they both complete their function the shift will be sudden giving the idea that it was a quick shift where in fact, there was a "lag" when they were essentially cancelling one another out.  Properly addressing the servos and their fluid flow ensures that one can release quickly while the other applies quickly with no overlap.
There can also be problems with just raising the line pressure as the servo retainers are not designed for excessive pressure so in some cases you will need a physically stronger part in there.
This is an oversimplification but it should give a basic idea of the importance of addressing what is happening at the point of the servos.  I am sure John will explain it properly and in more detail.

Musicman

Quote from: charger_mike75 on March 01, 2010, 10:18:05 PM
I didn't know they still used non lockup trannys in the 80's. I'll be ecstatic if it is a non lockup  :yesnod:

My 85 D-100 (slant 6) has a lock-up converter... you can feel it when it locks up, it's like an extra gear kicking in.

flyinlow

When I leave the trans in drive the 1-2 shift at WOT. is about 5200 rpm and very crisp. If I select manual low to delay the shift to 6000 rpm the shift is good ,but not as quick, or so it seams.

Low /reverse servo a little slow to dissengage?

I have a Transgo TOD2 kit in my A518.

John_Kunkel

Quote from: charger_mike75 on March 02, 2010, 06:17:37 PM
How would one address the servos?

Call them "sir".  :smilielol:

Seriously, Ghoste summed it up pretty well; on the manual 1-2 upshift the rear servo has to release and the release is by spring pressure only, the reprogramming kits supply a heavier spring and a spacer to rigidize the servo piston for quicker release. The controlled-load front servo (if equipped) is modified with a spacer to deactivate the inner plunger which acts as a cushion when the front band is applied. Also, the reprogramming kit contains an orifice restrictor which slows down the engagement of the front clutch to prevent severe overlap on the 2-3 upshift.

The cheaper kits only perform mods that the average person could perform with a couple of drill bits and a hacksaw.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

flyinlow

I moded the intermediate gear servo ,but left the low gear servo part6s out becouse I did not want to make the mods that let you downshift to first a anyspeed

(100mph into first for example) I did not think about being in manual low to second and the stock servo being slow to release.   :scratchchin:

Will have to go back in and add those parts.

Thanks!

did not mean to hijack the thread

John_Kunkel

Another thing I do to the rear servo piston is drill a hole in it using a #40 bit. This doesn't detract a lot from the piston's apply force but it does aid in the release.

One thing the factory did to prevent a quicker release of the rear band was to decrease the size of the channel that feeds the rear servo, the early sixties valve body transfer plate had a much deeper channel leading to the servo but they made the channel much more shallow in the following years and this restricts the flow of fluid out of the servo.

In the pic below the second channel from the right in each casting is the rear servo feed, notice the difference in depth of the channel. The channel in the lower casting is deeper.  
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

flyinlow

Thanks for the tip John!

73TXRallye440

wow- Kunkel you are the Tranny Man!

Musicman