Runs in sealer

[68RRFlyer]

Everything was going just swimmingly on the 68 R/T as I layed down the sealer with the hopes of finally shooting some color tomorrow.  Well, that'll be postponed due to some serious cutrains and runs all over the place.  I'm using a 2K sealer but used the slow reducer and should have used the fast one based on the cooler temps.  I didn't cover as well as I would have hoped either.  I used a regular sealer last time (not a 2K one) and it seemed to cover better.  More uniform.  Regardless, I now have some runs to deal with.  Never having been down this road before, can you sand out runs with 400/600 or something like that then reseal afterwards?  Or am I starting back to square one with a coat of primer, sand, then reseal?  Paint is PPG Shopline brand.  I'll have her in paint this week!  Thanks.

Cheers   

[TylerCharger69]

i dont see any reason why you cant just sand those runs out and re apply....

[alcusswhen]

I've found it better to cut most of the runs off with a single edge razor blade. Then use 220, 400 and 600. Cover your car where you don't have to reseal it to keep down over spray.

[Silver R/T]

read your text sheet for the primer sealer. Is it DPLF primer-sealer? Product sheet should have all the info you need for recoat window, dry to sand, etc etc.

[elitecustombody]

why didn't you just wipe it off while it was still wet?

[Patronus]

you should probably scotch-brite the whole car before 2nd coat of sealer (as you had concerns of coverage), then color coat... personally, I've had luck with primers and sealers laying down better at a higher psi, but its really dry here. Whenever you spray, lay down a light bond coat first over the whole panel and then return with a good coat overlapping about 50%. Concentrate on distance... remember, painting is the last of a LONG series of steps, (+ cut, buff, and wax) so be patient. If you notice heavy build-up in an area, spray just air to get it to set up quicker to avoid the run, and pray... btw, what color are you spraying??

[superbirdtom]

Your right on your advise  . I used to use dp 40 green sealer , but it is poor coverage like the dp-%  48 white sealer.  the dp -50 grey and dp-74 red really covers nice.so is dp-black, I reduce it 7% with dt-885 reducer and let sit for 15 minutes befor application.    If you are shooting the dp-48 white I put just 10% dp -50 grey in it it covers much better that way and is still white.

                                                   You use dp -50 the most and do your bondo work over the top of that then use it again for bare metal areas  then use the k-36 primer for high filling   then use dp-50 , let sit for an hour  then paint.  I do thisd day in day out for many years now .  But if you do get a sag in the dp sealers  just put the heat lamp on it for a couple hours at least 3 feet away.  then cool down  block it out with 320,  then 400 then 600 and reseal.

[Silver R/T]

Some guys like using SPI products, particularly their epoxy and clears.
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/homepage.htm

[68RRFlyer]

OK, thanks guys.  I'm spraying UU1 (light blue poly metallic) on a 68 Charger.  I looked at the spec sheet and it says to scuff and reseal after 72hrs if not topcoated.  But since I have the runs, I'll 400/600 them out, scuff the rest of car,  then reshoot another coat of sealer to be sure.  Looking forward to having color on tomorrow.  Will post pics!  Thanks for the help gang.

Cheers 

[FLG]

Some guys like using SPI products, particularly their epoxy and clears.
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/homepage.htm

Awesome stuff!! 

[Patronus]

if I may ask, how much sealer did you end up using? Over a gallon? Im using a 4:1 Dimension DS694 (black) wondering how much to get. Charger=Big

[Silver R/T]

if I may ask, how much sealer did you end up using? Over a gallon? Im using a 4:1 Dimension DS694 (black) wondering how much to get. Charger=Big

Are you using this? http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=DS676

[68RRFlyer]

No, the sealer I used was PPG's Shopline brand 2K:
https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCatalog/ViewProduct.aspx?ProductID=197b699d-54fd-47c5-af9f-1d6f9e9e3932

And I then after the runs, I went back to a 1K sealer:
https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCatalog/ViewProduct.aspx?ProductID=17770604-05c6-426d-9a96-3f9a8445cede

And that's what I was used to using.  No runs with this stuff.  I guess I just kept laying that 2K stuff down too thick is what I think the problem was.  But the 2K sealer was more runny than the 1K.  None the less, it all worked out.  I know some guys use sealer and some don't, but I do and like the results.  I'm not a professional painter so this was fine for me. I've used the entire line of that brand paint and it seems to produce a nice product so far.  But again, it's all in the prep work I guess.     

I used a gallon of it for everything: trunk, engine bay, jambs, exterior.  I used a fast reducer 4:1 ratio based on the cool metal and temps.  No it's not the top of the line paint by any means, but it still looks nice!

Cheers     

[Patronus]

if I may ask, how much sealer did you end up using? Over a gallon? Im using a 4:1 Dimension DS694 (black) wondering how much to get. Charger=Big

Are you using this? http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=DS676

Yeah, the black tho'...

[Silver R/T]

if I may ask, how much sealer did you end up using? Over a gallon? Im using a 4:1 Dimension DS694 (black) wondering how much to get. Charger=Big

Are you using this? http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=DS676

Yeah, the black tho'...

That's where the problem was. You don't want to use cheap 1k products on car if you want it to look nice. Always stick witn one brand paint or at least make sure you're using good quality 2k components (primers, sealers, top coats)
Like you've said in another post that you've used 1K sealer and that's something I would've done differently.