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Por15 on brake booster

Started by Paul 500, February 24, 2010, 06:25:48 AM

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Paul 500

If i were to paint my Bendix booster in por15 would i be able to top coat with an aerosol paint to get a correct colour finish.
68 Charger R/T
69 Charger 500

bill440rt

Sure, but you must use their self-etching primer in between.

Read about it & the tech sheets here:

http://www.por15.com/SELF-ETCHING-PRIMER/productinfo/SEPG/
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

Paul 500

68 Charger R/T
69 Charger 500

TexasStroker

Yes as Bill stated, do everything by their directions.  If you have never used POR15 it is super slick, hard, and glossy...not a great candidate for a paintable surface...It would certainly take the paint, just wouldn't look good and would then flake off, lol.  Follow the directions and you shouldn't have trouble.

I'm sure some others will reccommend a different product, but I think it would work out, and wouldn't be hard to touch up/correct if things go bad.
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resq302

FYI - if you are thinking that it will resist dot 3 brake fluid, think again!  I put that stuff on my master cylinder hoping that it would not react with brake fluid and it still does the melting thing.  Now I'm trying powder coating.  So far so good. :2thumbs:
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

The70RT

If you remove all the rust you won't need to use the por 15. Then just prime and paint.
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Silver R/T

if you can sandblast it you can use epoxy over it and just paint it any color u want.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

FLG

Quote from: Silver R/T on February 25, 2010, 10:03:56 PM
if you can sandblast it you can use epoxy over it and just paint it any color u want.

Id be a bit hesitant and blasting the booster  :shruggy: Just use some elbow grease.

Silver R/T

Just wrap some duct tape around threads and areas where you don't want sand to enter. Or you can use some Evaporust. It will strip rust.
http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=73098&p=542665&hilit=evapo#p542665
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

The70RT

You can also send it in for a rebuild. It cost me like just over a 100 or so.
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Chatt69chgr

Send it in to be rebuilt.  They will take it apart, sandblast it, and put in new interior components.  An outfit in Texas did mine.  They used to supply NAPA.  Can't recall the name. 

The70RT

Quote from: Chatt69chgr on February 27, 2010, 10:53:48 PM
Send it in to be rebuilt.  They will take it apart, sandblast it, and put in new interior components.  An outfit in Texas did mine.  They used to supply NAPA.  Can't recall the name. 

Prior is the name. I had mine done for 90 bucks plus freight. Mine came back bare metal. Here is what it looked like.
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jaak

Quote from: The70RT on February 28, 2010, 01:00:26 PM
Quote from: Chatt69chgr on February 27, 2010, 10:53:48 PM
Send it in to be rebuilt.  They will take it apart, sandblast it, and put in new interior components.  An outfit in Texas did mine.  They used to supply NAPA.  Can't recall the name. 

Prior is the name. I had mine done for 90 bucks plus freight. Mine came back bare metal. Here is wht it looked like.

Prior rebuilt mine too. I think it was $101 bucks with return shipping. Turn around time was real quick too. I was happy with them.

Jason

Chatt69chgr

Prior Brake was the name I couldn't remember.  They were real nice folks.  I talked to them prior to sending mine in.  Mine came off a C-body and needed the pushrod shortened to B-body specs.  They did this for no extra money.  And mine came back bare metal like the previous post.  So you can do the finish painting yourself and do it the way you want it. 
Whatever you do, don't send it to Cardone (if they even still rebuild for individuals).  They are not user friendly and are the ones that have combined several applications so, for example, if you ordered a booster for your 69 there is no telling what you might get.  I think they call if functional equivalent.  Same with master cylinders.  Fortunately, NAPA has the correct master for 69's now and it's new (albeit, made in China, but nice nevertheless).   

resq302

A1Cardone anymore is what I have heard called "spray and pray" meaning that they do a shoddy job at rebuilding, give it a quick cheapo paint job and pray that it holds up till the warranty expires.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Paul 500

I'd love to send it away for a rebuild but i'm in England & it'll cost an absolute fortune.
68 Charger R/T
69 Charger 500

Chatt69chgr

Well, those boosters are very hard to find now so it might be worth it. 

HeavyFuel

I used
http://boosterdeweyexchange.com

I had him rebuild and paint it, and it turned out nice enough.