Converter

[Brass]

Hi all,

New member here.  I signed on to this site some time back but hadn't found the 68 I was looking for until a few of months ago.  The members here have already been a tremendous help, as I've been able to answer most of my questions through extensive use of the search function.  But I could use some clarity before spending any more immediate $.

I'm looking for a torque converter for my current set up.  The engine is a 72 440 w/forged steel crank, rebuilt to 68 HP specs ~9000 miles ago.  (Unfortunately I don't know anything about the cam.)  It has stock heads and HP exhaust manifolds with an H-pipe and round ultra-flos.  I'm also using a MP aluminum manifold, Holley 700 double pumper, MP orange box ignition, 727 w/shift-kit, and a 3.23 sure grip.

I noted here that a stock converter for the 440 makes 2K-2300 stall.  I've been told the one in my car is between 1400 - 1500.  The Turbo Action 17501, 17801, and 17805st all appear to be good pieces.  But at 2800-3000 stall, would they be too much for my mild set up?  If not, would a converter make a notable difference?  Long ago, I used a small block torque converter in my first Charger which seemed to work good too.  I understand they can add up to +500 rpm of stall.  Would that still be a viable option?

This car will probably never see the strip but I want to be able to have a little fun and represent on the street.  It seems that building mid-range power is the way to go if I want to be able to pull hard at launch and still run strong on the freeway.

Any advice would be kindly appreciated,
M

[Brass]

Here is a photo of what I'm working with.  This was taken by the prior owner.  Unfortunately all of mine are too large to post.  The color is MM1 bronze which doesn't really show up here - and looks better in person.

[Purple440]

So when you mash the pedal down, when does it kick in?  With a stock setup I'm assuming you'd want 2500 stall or under.

[R2]

I would CALL Turbo Action and ask to talk to Paul Forte,,,during their tech hours,,,see below,,,,

He can "pick" the correct convertor for your application.....I have gone thru them several times,,,,and he is usually spot on with picking the correct convertor...

Doug 

Turbo Action, Inc.
1535 Owens Road - Jacksonville, Florida 32218
Phone:  904-741-4850 l FAX:  904-741-4853
Business Hours:  7:30am to 5:00pm, Mon. - Thur.
7:30am to 11:30am, Friday
        Tech. Calls:   1:00pm to 4:00pm, Mon. - Thur.

[Nacho-RT74]

without cam specs will hard to pick a converter... but based on what I have read GENERALLY have read a 2300 to 2500 stall is a good mild  street/strip converter, specially for 440 and even to 383/400 depending on the rest of the combo. Being 440 what by design has more torque you can get it lower, maybe even into 2100-2300 rate. Some ppl more in race world will tell you into 2800 rate, but that would mean get in to tranny oil cooler lines and less gas mileage ( if you care about ).

I have noticed mostly engine builders in here are in high torque, high output, race engines, strokers, so to them is hard to keep them in steets world and regular use engines LOL.

at the end will depends on what exactly will be the use of your Charger

AND WELCOME

[Brass]

@Purple440:  The engine revs and it'll burn the tires - but its not quite as responsive as I'd like.  (Or expect.)  From what I understand, a good converter will keep the rpms in the peak power range during a hard launch.  I had a junkyard 400 in a similarly equipped car that seemed possessed.  It would lay it down a lot more - the only conceivable difference was a little higher stall.  The existing torque converter I have seems to be worse than stock.  I want to upgrade it but was looking for a little assurance that its worth doing with this set up - and won't ruin drivability.

Thanks for your input and welcome, guys.  I'll give Paul a call - I certainly have some questions!

[Troy]

Can't help on the converter but I love MM1 cars. Do you have the fender tag? It's the first one I've seen without a vinyl top.

Troy

[John_Kunkel]

Take R2's advice and talk to the man, buying a converter by stall speed rating is like buying a wife because she has good teeth.

[1Bad70Charger]

Ron (firefighter) who is one of the more knowlegable folks around here has recommend for me and several other with a set-up not far of  from  yours, essentially a stock 440, with headers, carb, to go with a Dynamic 10.5 street converter.  I am running 3.91 gears in my 69 Runner and will be swapping out to  a much more aggressive street cam, and want something that launches like a mother fuc-er from a standstill to 120 mph, and still have great street manners when cruising around, and dynamic recommended a 9.5 street/strip converter which I just ordered.

I would call Dynamic, Coan, the best names in the industry, and see what they recommend for your application.  Anyway you look at it, even if you run a 2500 stall converter, YOU MUST run at least an external tranny cooler to play things smart, b/c any aftermarket converter will generate MORE heat than stock and if you get to hot you will fry your TF 727!

Best of luck to you! 

[1Bad70Charger]

Sorry about the double post. 

[Brass]

Thanks for the additional info.  I'll check out Dynamic and Coan too.   

Troy, here is the info I was able to get from the fender tag:

CAR: Dodge Charger 2 Door Sports Hardtop
ENGINE: 318cid 2-bbl V8
TRANSMISSION: 3-Speed Automatic
TIRES: 7.35x14
BUILD DATE: March 21.
AXLE: 2.76 Rear Axle Ratio
INTERIOR: Charger Trim Grade, Vinyl Bucket Seats. Black Interior.
PAINT: Monotone Bronze Metallic Paint.
OTHER: Black Upper Door Frame Color.

MOLDINGS:
25: Drip Rail Mouldings
30: Body Belt Mouldings
78: Wheel Lip Mouldings

ABC OPTIONS:
H1: Power Brakes
R1: AM Radio
X1: Tinted Glass (all)

abc OPTIONS:
b4: Bucket Seats
h7: Fender or Hood Mounted Turn Signal Indicators
m6: Driver's Outside Remote Operated Mirror