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Solid roller cam

Started by 69charger440, December 15, 2009, 12:55:31 AM

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69charger440

What does it take to run a solid roller cam in a stock 440. Do you have to upgrade the oil passages, line bore the cam? I have been talking to some people and these concern where mentioned. So what do i have to do to run a solid roller cam correctly?
1969 Charger 540 Blown Hemi 1000HP, 69 Road Runner 500 Stroker 665 HP

firefighter3931

There's no special machining required to run a solid roller. The Comp #829 lifter drops right into the stock lifter bore and works just fine. There are several things that will need to be replaced and a few extra parts needed. There is also more maintenance with a solid roller....figure every 3000 miles you'll need fresh valvesprings and new (rebuilt) lifters. You also need to run an electric fuel pump. Good rocker arms (Harland Sharp or T&D) are a must have.



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

Cooter

Quote from: firefighter3931 on December 15, 2009, 07:59:49 AM
There's no special machining required to run a solid roller. The Comp #829 lifter drops right into the stock lifter bore and works just fine. There are several things that will need to be replaced and a few extra parts needed. There is also more maintenance with a solid roller....figure every 3000 miles you'll need fresh valvesprings and new (rebuilt) lifters. You also need to run an electric fuel pump. Good rocker arms (Harland Sharp or T&D) are a must have.



Ron

Really? I was kinda lookin' into Roller stuff as this seems to be what everybody is going to and was wondering If a solid lift Roller would live on the street.....Are Solid lift rollers (Lift Within reason) really that hard on Valve springs and lifters? That sucks as it's like over $1000 to upgrade to roller in a BB Chrysler...

Or did you mean 30,000 miles?
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

Ghoste

A lot heavier springs required with the roller to keep it on the steep lobes.

Cooter

Quote from: Ghoste on December 15, 2009, 09:17:08 PM
A lot heavier springs required with the roller to keep it on the steep lobes.

I figured that, but I woulda thought they'd have lasted longer than 3000 miles....All that money for a Roller cam and it won't last 3000 miles? I'm thinkin' for that coin, it better live another 15 years like my Solid lift Comp cam, springs, and lifters...
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

Ghoste

The rollers get pounded pretty good in that time too so like Ron said, it isn't just the springs that need to be looked at.

firefighter3931

Quote from: Cooter on December 15, 2009, 10:01:13 PM
Quote from: Ghoste on December 15, 2009, 09:17:08 PM
A lot heavier springs required with the roller to keep it on the steep lobes.

I figured that, but I woulda thought they'd have lasted longer than 3000 miles....All that money for a Roller cam and it won't last 3000 miles? I'm thinkin' for that coin, it better live another 15 years like my Solid lift Comp cam, springs, and lifters...


The cam will last forever....it's the wear items that need maintenance. The high stress points are the axle bearings in the roller lifters and the valvesprings. Even a mild street roller will have 500lbs of spring pressure over the nose to keep things stable. Low speed operation is also problematic due to the oiling design (splash lube) of a BB Mopar engine.....so there are lots of potential issues to contend with.

The other thing worthy of mention is the oil pump drive which is a bronze gear and also has a short service life....it'll need replacing as often as the Valvesprings or possibly every second VS swap.



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs