Can Someone Please Check Out My Ignition Diagram

[dodgecharger72]

I am in the middle of rewiring my 72 and I just wired my ignition today. I would really appreciate some input as to whether or not this is correct. The previous ignition was points so the diagram I drew up before I ripped the old harness out is useless. I cant just turn the key to see if it will start yet because my steering column and starter are still unwired. I have been studying diagrams and manuals for weeks now and this is the best i could come up with.  Please forgive me for any gross errors. I am really new to this car stuff and know next to nothing about electrical wiring. Thanks a lot guys

btw... its an EZ harness with a Mancini Racing Mopar electronic conversion kit

[John_Kunkel]

On the original '72 setup the hot wire to the ballast resistor didn't come from the fuse box, it came from the ignition switch and therein lies the problem with your schematic.

The Mopar ignition switch has two ignition circuits, IGN1 and IGN2; IGN1 has power when the key is in the RUN position but shuts of when the key is in the START position. IGN2 is powered only when the key is in the START position and shuts off when the key is in the RUN position.

In order to make your setup work as drawn you'll have to splice the IGN1 and IGN2 wires together in order to have power in both the START and RUN positions. IGN1 is normally a dark blue wire and IGN2 is brown.

[dodgecharger72]

So where would the hot wire from my fuse box go?  It's labeled as a coil wire. I also have an ignition wire and starter solenoid wire which I presumed would both go to my starter relay

[Nacho-RT74]

START is Yellow and Brown

RUN Is Blue

when everything is plugged all wires are hot in both positions due the splice made by the ballast. The diff is where comes the full 12V power being feed by ign switch.

I made this diagram long time ago and SHOULD MEET the bulkhead cavities for 72s.

when 4 pins ECU and single ballast, then the secondary resistance is not wired. ( resistance is inside the newer ECUs )

[dodgecharger72]

Thanks Nacho but this looks COMPLETELY different from the points conversion instructions that came with the dist and what the techs have told me at Mancini Racing and Summit Racing. They said cancel the green wire and run the black wire off the ECU straight to negative coil. And is a voltage regulator necessary? It dodn't come with my ignition package and it is not required in any of my wiring diagrams. I am pretty confused LOL

[Ghoste]

The voltage regulator is very much required, you wouldn't be long melting down your electrical system without it.

[Nacho-RT74]

And is a voltage regulator necessary? It dodn't come with my ignition package and it is not required in any of my wiring diagrams. I am pretty confused LOL

yeap, as adviced, electronic regulator is practically a must. Regular points regulator is not a constant power source, will have peaks, and that is what get damaged the ECUs. Low power from alternators too ( mostly at iddle low output )

to be more honored to the truth, electronic regulators although part of equippment since 70, as far I know they were revised and a new one came out on 72s with ECU cars. You will find two PNs for those on 72s depending on the ign kind of the car, so that important is this part on the fully electronic upgrade

[Nacho-RT74]

They said cancel the green wire and run the black wire off the ECU straight to negative coil.

they are saying the truth. the green wire they say is the GREEN TRACED RED wire going to the ballast, to the secondary resistance ( made OLIVE color on diagram ). Thats the wire I told you not necesary to hook with single ballast ( since you won't have where LOL ) and 4 pins modules.

Black wire ( I think traced yellow ) is the one going to negative side of coil, replacing the wire originally hooked from there to the dist points assembly.

I could get some wires wrongly or uncomplete colored but wiring I show on diagram is the stock setup.

your hand made diagram is pretty much the same I made, just that I'm showing how it was stock, with power being got from splice under the harness tape instead ballast ( and one of the coil wires on wrong spot at mocule, but you will get imposible to miss that since plug is already made with wires on it )

[dodgecharger72]

I think this is startin to make sense... I will let you all know when I get it ready to start though. Thanks a lot guys

[dodgecharger72]

If I am looking at this correctly the same wire goes to the ballast resistor, voltage regulator, ECU, AND the alt?   I am assuming this is a hot wire so would it be the coil wire or the alt power wire?? They are both provided for in the harness

[Nacho-RT74]

I know the harness you got. I rebuilt a 70 harness with the ECU upgrade harness

you have 5 wires on ECU plug.

-Two wires run directly to dist, not a prob, its a non brainer conection. Has its own plug.

-Black runs to - lead of coil. It has as far I remember comes even with the eyelet terminal, so another non brainer conection. Gives the spark order, once dist sends the signal by the reluctor, and ECU makes the circuit to coil.

-Green traced red, is the one should run to the secondary ( 5 ohms high resistance ) resistance on ballast with 5 pins/double ballast. If 4 pins ECU and single ballast, won't go anywhere. You can remove it.

-Blue traced yellow, runs to a keyed source, Hot in RUN position and the right spot is anywhere in the BLUE WIRE LINE. Ballast is the common one. Regulator is another source. That wire runs of to alt field. For a correct 72 look, I would go directly to the splice under the harness tape. The splice is located just right before the ballast plug. simplye remove tape, sold the wire there and retape. Not hard to do. Easier way is the ballast blue wire hook up though. Nothing wrong with that.

Electronic regulator... your car being a 72 IS ALREADY EQUIPPED with electronic regulator stuf. Dunno if you already have a newer regulator or not, but any aftermarket unit should be the perfect one.

ECU upgrade Harness has nothing to do with regulator and alternator net, just the power source hook up

[dodgecharger72]

Okay I'm leaving the house right now to go buy a voltage regulator. And the splice makes sense. Thanks Nacho for all your help. I'll let you know how it goes later

[John_Kunkel]

I suspect you will still have problems with the EZ setup and the stock ignition switch, most aftermarket wiring doesn't take into account the two separate ignition circuits that I mentioned in my first reply.

Nearly everything like this is designed for GM cars.

[dodgecharger72]

How should I fix this John?

[dodgecharger72]

Ok there are 3 leads coming off the  alt- green blue and black.   On my harness there is an alt excitor(white) and an alt power(red) porvided. How do these match up with the ones on the diagram?

[John_Kunkel]

Once again you can't use the aftermarket wiring on a Mopar, the excitor wire is for GM alternators with internal regulators.

Why are you going this way when repop factory wiring harnesses are available?

[dodgecharger72]

I am on an extremely low budget. I am a student with only a part time job. This is by far the cheapest harness. I was told by a lot of people including mopar performance techs that this harness would work for my car with a few changes. I have already purchased it, cut out the excess wires, installed it, and ran most of the wires so I feel that I am past the point of no return.