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Easy Bolt on HorsePower? Heads?? Other??

Started by MoparGuy, September 14, 2009, 03:05:02 PM

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MoparGuy

Looking for info as I feel lacking in this area!!  I have a 1968 Charger with a 383 auto.  The motor was rebuilt before I bought it, was told stock build with a purple cam.  Compression is great between 128 PSI & 135 PSI on all cylinders, so don't want to open up the motor.   That being said, it seem slacking in torque, so I want to change this a little.  I'm building a highway cruiser not a 1/4 mile screamer!  I was contemplating changing the heads, considering mopar performance stage 6 aluminum heads.    Any experience with these aluminum heads?  Will these work fine with my stock build?  Other suggestions for heads or to add (bolt on) easy power? 
All suggestions appreciated,
Thanks,
MoparGuy

elacruze

I'm not often one to bust chops, but your question has been answered a hundred times and a hundred ways. Use the search function, read for a couple of hours.

If you're building a hiway cruiser, why do you want more than you have?
What do you have anyway, you didn't mention whether you even have headers and aftermarket intake.

??
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

68X426

Keep in mind the obvious and easy stuff too, like a better breathing air cleaner, a tune up, and higher octane fuel. Air in the tires too, don't laugh, there are guys running around with low air (18-20) and don't know why they feel sluggish.

"Bolt-on power" can take many forms that are neither bolt-on nor directly power related. In other words, horsepower doesn't always equal speed, it's the effectiveness of the total vehicle that gets you speed on the highway.  :Twocents:

For a highway cruiser look into overdrive (pricey) or lower gear ratio (cheap). That will get you more speed than just horsepower. I think that ignition and carb upgrades also give you more bang for the buck. You said stock build, you got headers?  :scratchchin:

Finally what's the budget? Does easy power mean stretching every last dollar as far as you can?  :icon_smile_question:

To answer the question, IMO new heads have to have all the peripherals upgraded too or it's a wasted effort. Heads work as part of a team of components. Don't neglect the total package of motor, driveline, gearing, brakes, suspension and driveability.



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1968 Plymouth Road Runner, Hemi and much more
2013 Dodge Challenger RT, Hemi, Plum Crazy
2014 Ram 4x4 Hemi, Deep Cherry Pearl
1968 Dodge Charger, 318, not much else
1958 Dodge Pick Up, 383, loud
1966 Dodge Van, /6, slow

MoparGuy

Thanks alot for the responses.
Talked to Mopar Performance tech line about the stage 6 heads & that's a bad idea because for one it needs offset rockers that they no longer sell.  They suggested the aluminum 452 heads &* no other changes required.  Expensive around $1600 pair  BUT would gain 30 HP.   
I have an Edlebrock dual plane intake( DP 4B) and factory exhaust manifolds, no headers.  I'm trying to maintain an "original look" to the engine compartment.  I have a dual snorkel air breather so won't do the K & N filters. My plans are to get a gear vendors over/under added as an overdrive, currently have 355's & looked into swapping out the third member even for a 276, but leaning to gear vendor.  I agree on tire pressure & height of tire.  I don't do the high octane but will explore that.  I have an Eldebrock 750 & stock ignition except no points.

I agree it's the effectiveness of the total vehicle so it's the grand sum of all the little things we do to make it a better machine.  I guess I'm looking for what are some of these little ways to make it a better overall machine BUT with more power.  I 'll spend what I need to to have a good highway cruiser with enough power to easily pass cars & challenge the Rockies.  My goal is to do Route  66 from Chicago to Los Angeles next September in the old Charger. I've already installed aftermarket air conditioning so it'll suck some power.
Enjoy those old Chargers ,
MoparGuy

elacruze


Well, NOW we've got something to talk about!!
I'm targeting Rte. 66 next summer too, some time after July...

Read this article-http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/5115_cylinder_heads/index.html

Aluminum heads don't make any sense to me until you want 400hp+ at the rear wheels. You can have your iron heads ported for less than that $1600 and it'll make more power. A lot of big Chryslers made it over the mountains with a 383 just fine-are you sure you need more power worse than more brakes?

I went for electronic fuel injection on mine, one of the reasons being that I live at sea level and don't want to think about my jetting while touring.

I'm geeked, somebody with the same target. Yay.

1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

MoparGuy

I agree with the brakes, I've got disc brakes to put on the front, later this fall when it's to cold to drive.  Yeh the aluminum heads are lots of cash for little gain, so will either get the originals ported or be satisfied with what I have!  The Charger just seems a little underpowered, guess I'm just to use to driving my wife's 340 Cuda that's pushing 400 hp!!
Trying to get all the bugs out as I plan on leaving for my trip near the end of August!  Currently working on an electric rad fan to help with ther cooling. 
Still will try to get a little more power!
Good luck with your RTE 66 trip.
Thanks for the input!
Have  a great day,
MOPAR GUY

Rolling_Thunder

Well...    if you are just looking for more get up and go...    if it is torque you want maybe try a rear end gear set or maybe a little bit of converter ?
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip