News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

No spark - ballast resistor?

Started by GN, September 06, 2009, 05:23:21 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

GN

My stock 74 318 is using up ballast resistors like candy. The  B.R. is warm to the touch and does not show 12volts at the brown wire when in the run position, from coil to B.R. I had this problem before and put in a new B.R. and the car started right up. The B.Rs. I have been getting lately appear to be used ones. Or not rapped up, just in the box.  How can I check them at the store to be sure they are good? What would cause this problem?

moparchris

the onlyway to check the ballast in the store would be to take your ohm meter and check it for resistance.  This would only tell you if the resistor is basically in one piece and not broken. As far as "going through them like candy"  I'm not an electrical expert but electricity is only going to flow in one direction.  If the balasts are getting fried I would look at what is in front of the ballast in your electrical circuit.  Look at the voltage regulator first and go from there.

GN

Can a meter be used to check the voltage regulator? Does the resistor normally get hot when in use?

nascarxx29

The resistors usually get very hot and smoke the first time there used
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

Nacho-RT74

I think I already responsed you at 3rd gen board LOL
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

GN

Today, I ran a jumper from the battery to the coil, car started right up. Removed the jumper and tried starting the regular way with key, started right up. Tried a little later, started up again. Could it be the ignition control unit? Its not the ballast resistor, is it? What gives?

y3chargerrt

Control units are usually good or bad not intermittent. Sounds like a bad connection. Check connections and grounds.

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: y3chargerrt on September 08, 2009, 07:05:50 PM
Control units are usually good or bad not intermittent.

I have some doubts about :scratchchin:
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

A383Wing

Ballast resistor is by-passed during starting....I would suspect a bad control unit

TylerCharger69

Quote from: y3chargerrt on September 08, 2009, 07:05:50 PM
Control units are usually good or bad not intermittent. Sounds like a bad connection. Check connections and grounds.

Well...I have experienced a bad ECU....Sometimes the car would just....quit.....sometimes it wouldn't start...sometimes it would.....The ECU was the trouble..(Orange Box....THERES a surprise)  It took me a while to figure it out because I thought the same thing as far as being an intermittent problem...I always thought they were either toast....or not toast....I learned something that day..... :yesnod:

GN

Tyler, What do you think caused it to go bad?