News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

removing drum from the car: succeeded!!

Started by CB, July 22, 2009, 06:18:31 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

CB

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,5336.0.html

Can anyone tell me how for Gods' sake I can pull my front drum off?  :shruggy:


*edit* studs don't need to come off ::)
I saw John_Kunkels' pic


, my studs looks like the swaged one (left stud) in the pic.


CB (still not driving  :icon_smile_dissapprove: )
1968 Dodge Coronet 500

tan top

 Hay CB   
  silly question i know .. i might have read it wrong   but are you trying to get the studs out or drum off  ????

to take the drum off , you need to remove the wheel bearing under the centre dust cap  :yesnod: .................. :popcrn:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

bull

Are yours swaged like in the pic? If they are and you want to save the drum you need to get that tool referenced in the thread you linked and cut them out. If it's the drum you're trying to get off and the studs are not swaged there is a poor man's method to getting it off. But if they're not swaged I would think the drum would just come right off quite easily.

CB

sorry, I need to take off the drum itself.
I always thought the studs stay on the inner part and not on the drum itself?? :scratchchin:

So removing the wheel bearing to get the drum off?

Thanks guys!
CB
1968 Dodge Coronet 500

tan top

Quote from: CB on July 23, 2009, 12:39:16 AM
sorry, I need to take off the drum itself.
I always thought the studs stay on the inner part and not on the drum itself?? :scratchchin:

So removing the wheel bearing to get the drum off?

Thanks guys!
CB


yes  :yesnod: make sure you don't get any grit in the bearing
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

mauve66

i used alot of penetrating oil and a sledge hammer to remove mine back in 98 when i put all R handed ones one, probably got lucky when i didn't hurt the drum, but i din't know about a special tool back then
Robert-Las Vegas, NV

NEEDS:
body work
paint - mauve and black
powder coat wheels - mauve and black
total wiring
PW
PDLKS
Tint
trim
engine - 520/540, eddy heads, 6pak
alignment

CB

well, I won't be doing the swap since the next step would be disk brakes in the front anyway.

Just need to get that little monster off the car so I can continue the rebuild. :brickwall:

Thanks!
CB
1968 Dodge Coronet 500

maxwellwedge

Quote from: CB on July 23, 2009, 12:39:16 AM
sorry, I need to take off the drum itself.
I always thought the studs stay on the inner part and not on the drum itself?? :scratchchin:

So removing the wheel bearing to get the drum off?

Thanks guys!
CB

The rear drums slide of the studs - the fronts....not so much.  :icon_smile_big:

CB

Quote from: tan top on July 22, 2009, 06:23:58 PM
Hay CB   
to take the drum off , you need to remove the wheel bearing under the centre dust cap  :yesnod: .................. :popcrn:

I feel like :loser: but I finally got the drums off. I just took me 5 minutes for both sides ::)
Thanks TanTop for pointing me in the right direction :cheers:
CB
1968 Dodge Coronet 500

tan top

Quote from: CB on July 24, 2009, 09:37:12 AM
Quote from: tan top on July 22, 2009, 06:23:58 PM
Hay CB   
to take the drum off , you need to remove the wheel bearing under the centre dust cap  :yesnod: .................. :popcrn:

I feel like :loser: but I finally got the drums off. I just took me 5 minutes for both sides ::)
Thanks TanTop for pointing me in the right direction :cheers:
CB


  :2thumbs:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

CB

I was wondering how much torque you put on that center nut? I came off quit easely :scratchchin:
1968 Dodge Coronet 500

The70RT

Quote from: CB on July 24, 2009, 06:06:57 PM
I was wondering how much torque you put on that center nut? I came off quit easely :scratchchin:

You barely tighten the nut. Tighten it on by hand then turn the drum a few times then tighten by hand again. Then tighten the nut like 1/4 turn with a tool. Make sure you regreased the bearings good. :2thumbs:
<br /><br />Uploaded with ImageShack.us

mauve66

Quote from: CB on July 24, 2009, 06:06:57 PM
I was wondering how much torque you put on that center nut? I came off quit easely :scratchchin:

there is a setting for that, too tight and the bearings will burn up, too loose and the whole wheel will wooble going down the road
Robert-Las Vegas, NV

NEEDS:
body work
paint - mauve and black
powder coat wheels - mauve and black
total wiring
PW
PDLKS
Tint
trim
engine - 520/540, eddy heads, 6pak
alignment

mauve66

this came from my 66 manual so if ya got one for your car its in there

1. tighten wheel bearing adjusting nut to 90 INCH pounds WHILE ROTATING WHEEL
2. position nut lock on nut with one pair of slots lining up with cotter pin hole
3. BACK OFF adjusting nut and nut lock assembly one slot and install cotter pin
4.  the resulting adjustment should be zero (no pre-load) to .003 inch end play no i have never measured mine, and i assume that most people (like me) do this by guess but it should get you pretty close again this is for a 66 but should be really similar for both cars if not the same
Robert-Las Vegas, NV

NEEDS:
body work
paint - mauve and black
powder coat wheels - mauve and black
total wiring
PW
PDLKS
Tint
trim
engine - 520/540, eddy heads, 6pak
alignment

The70RT

Quote from: mauve66 on July 25, 2009, 09:56:23 AM
this came from my 66 manual so if ya got one for your car its in there

1. tighten wheel bearing adjusting nut to 90 INCH pounds WHILE ROTATING WHEEL
2. position nut lock on nut with one pair of slots lining up with cotter pin hole
3. BACK OFF adjusting nut and nut lock assembly one slot and install cotter pin
4.  the resulting adjustment should be zero (no pre-load) to .003 inch end play no i have never measured mine, and i assume that most people (like me) do this by guess but it should get you pretty close again this is for a 66 but should be really similar for both cars if not the same


Yeah I never checked my manual for specifics......like you said it's a natural for most of old timmers  :2thumbs:
<br /><br />Uploaded with ImageShack.us

CB

from the manual  :2thumbs:
1968 Dodge Coronet 500

skip68

Good work Christian.   :2thumbs:   You are really getting dirty on this one.   :nana:    Chuck.........
skip68, A.K.A. Chuck \ 68 Charger 440 auto\ 67 Camaro RS (no 440)       FRANKS & BEANS !!!


CB

Quote from: skip68 on July 25, 2009, 12:21:57 PM
Good work Christian.   :2thumbs:   You are really getting dirty on this one.   :nana:    Chuck.........

tell me  :eek2: :eek2: :eek2:

bloody knukles, dirt all over, swearing a lot, ... all the nice things when doing the rebuild :brickwall:
1968 Dodge Coronet 500

mauve66

Quote from: The70RT on July 25, 2009, 10:40:36 AM
Quote from: mauve66 on July 25, 2009, 09:56:23 AM
this came from my 66 manual so if ya got one for your car its in there

1. tighten wheel bearing adjusting nut to 90 INCH pounds WHILE ROTATING WHEEL
2. position nut lock on nut with one pair of slots lining up with cotter pin hole
3. BACK OFF adjusting nut and nut lock assembly one slot and install cotter pin
4.  the resulting adjustment should be zero (no pre-load) to .003 inch end play no i have never measured mine, and i assume that most people (like me) do this by guess but it should get you pretty close again this is for a 66 but should be really similar for both cars if not the same


Yeah I never checked my manual for specifics......like you said it's a natural for most of old timmers  :2thumbs:

i just know how hard it is to get more parts over there and didn't want him to fry the bearing
Robert-Las Vegas, NV

NEEDS:
body work
paint - mauve and black
powder coat wheels - mauve and black
total wiring
PW
PDLKS
Tint
trim
engine - 520/540, eddy heads, 6pak
alignment

six-tee-nine

Quote from: CB on July 25, 2009, 01:04:33 PM

bloody knukles, dirt all over, swearing a lot, ... all the nice things when doing the rebuild :brickwall:


Is'nt it nice when we enjoy our hobby.....

In such cases it helps to be a mechanic like I am, that eases out things from time to time....
CB I should give you my phone number and meet you some time I'd might be able to help you out from time to time..... I do stuff like that for a living...

Koen
Greetings from Belgium, the beer country

NOS is nice, turbo's are neat, but when it comes to Mopars, there's no need to cheat...


CB

Quote from: six-tee-nine on July 29, 2009, 01:33:28 PM
Quote from: CB on July 25, 2009, 01:04:33 PM

bloody knukles, dirt all over, swearing a lot, ... all the nice things when doing the rebuild :brickwall:


Is'nt it nice when we enjoy our hobby.....

In such cases it helps to be a mechanic like I am, that eases out things from time to time....
CB I should give you my phone number and meet you some time I'd might be able to help you out from time to time..... I do stuff like that for a living...

Koen

Now we are talking  :icon_smile_big:
The rebuild is now going in its ... 5th or 6th week (I lost track :icon_smile_blackeye: )
Exept for the pitman arm I got all the parts to have it rebuild.
Shoot me a PM, Koen!
:cheers:
CB
1968 Dodge Coronet 500