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Rust fix estimate.....

Started by paulgrr63, May 10, 2009, 02:43:22 PM

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paulgrr63

I have a bit of a rust issue behind the passenger front rear wheel. The hole is about the size of a quarter with some surface rust around it. The driver side has the same problem except no hole. Its just some surface rust. Anyone have an idea as to how much it would cost to fix this?

I wouldn't mind doing it myself if someone could point me in the right direction on how to do it :cheers:

paulgrr63

Diff angle

bull

When you see a hole you can bet the area around it is bad too.

mikepmcs

EDIT, I just realized it's the front fender you are talking about. I need to read slower. :slap:

You need to replace the metal to do it right and now that i'm reading it again, I'd try to find a new fender depending on budget. If you want to fix it instead, you need a cut off tool/wheel, a welder, and some donor metal, preferably from another like model year.  If it's something you want to take on and I mean really gotta want this LOL, find the metal and we'll get you through it(i say we'll but guys like Brian, Leon, Corndog, and a host of others are really who I'm talking about)  I have the know how but they have much more experience in the field.  It's gonna take a little more patience around the leading edge where it takes a 90* bend.  Also that molding will need to come off.

You have to be prepared to grind it off and not be surprised at the amount of trashed metal that will be under that paint.  Oh yeah, I bet the other side is pretty thin as well so get two metal panels.  You could actually shape the metal yourself, but if you can get good metal from another car or replacement metal from a vendor(if they make it), then that is what I would do.  

It all depends on how you want the car done.  You could bandaid it for now with glass and filler, but it will come back.
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

Sublime/Sixpack

The piece of trim would have to come off, and then basically cut out the rusty section of sheet metal, prep the area, weld a new (good) piece in, dress the welds, apply filler, smooth, prime, and paint.

You've got more rust through there than you think.  :Twocents:
1970 Sublime R/T, 440 Six Pack, Four speed, Super Track Pak

hemi-hampton

Once you grind it down to bare metal it will be much bigger & worse then expected. What I like to do is cut it all out leaving only the edges if possible. Sandblast the edges & behind it, Make a Patch ( I just routinely buy 3foot x 3 foot sheets) Then start welding. Grind welds, add thin layer of Duraglass or all metal, thin layer of body filler. Prime. Done. LEON. :Twocents:

hemi-hampton

Here's some Pics for a example. Just a low budget 78 t-bird, nothing special. no show car here. LEON.

paulgrr63

I think I'll just take it to a shop and get it worked on. This would be my first time working on rust I don't want to screw it up. Especially on something so obvious :icon_smile_big:

About how much do you think it will cost if I take it to a shop?

Charger-Bodie

Im with LEON on this one....Cut it out ,blast it , Weld in a new piece. etc. etc...
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

mikepmcs

Hard to say on price due to them not knowing what they are going to run into when they start grinding it down.
All said and done be prepared for a grand a side with work, materials, paint, etc....
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

bull

A good way to estimate the repair cost is to think what would be the highest reasonable dollar amount and then multiply that number by 4 and that number will be pretty close to your low-end starting point.

Sublime/Sixpack

Quote from: paulgrr63 on May 10, 2009, 06:53:43 PM
I think I'll just take it to a shop and get it worked on. This would be my first time working on rust I don't want to screw it up. Especially on something so obvious :icon_smile_big:

About how much do you think it will cost if I take it to a shop?

I won't guess on the cost (I do my own work), but whoever you have do the repair make sure they do a thorough job or that area will rust out from the inside. Some will just make the outside of the repair look presentable but do nothing to properly prepare the area and the new patch, then when water gets up in there rust will do its thing and you'll have to have it repaired all over again.
1970 Sublime R/T, 440 Six Pack, Four speed, Super Track Pak

paulgrr63

Quote from: Sublime/Sixpack on May 10, 2009, 08:37:59 PM
Quote from: paulgrr63 on May 10, 2009, 06:53:43 PM
I think I'll just take it to a shop and get it worked on. This would be my first time working on rust I don't want to screw it up. Especially on something so obvious :icon_smile_big:

About how much do you think it will cost if I take it to a shop?

I won't guess on the cost (I do my own work), but whoever you have do the repair make sure they do a thorough job or that area will rust out from the inside. Some will just make the outside of the repair look presentable but do nothing to properly prepare the area and the new patch, then when water gets up in there rust will do its thing and you'll have to have it repaired all over again.

I'll keep that in mind :2thumbs:

AutoRust

Rust repair is my specialty, so I can offer some input here.
1, its always worse then it looks (cant estimate what you cant see)
2, Quality work can be expensive, Dont accept less   ( no bean cans riveted in place)

My guess-timate would put it at 4-5 hours per side to repair them, depending on what the inner fender structure looks like.
This would not include finish paint

:cheers:
Nothing to see here folks, its just a Bluesmobile

GN

Have it done by a shop if you are not sure on how to do it.

paulgrr63

Quote from: AutoRust on May 11, 2009, 12:19:43 PM
Rust repair is my specialty, so I can offer some input here.
1, its always worse then it looks (cant estimate what you cant see)
2, Quality work can be expensive, Dont accept less   ( no bean cans riveted in place)

My guess-timate would put it at 4-5 hours per side to repair them, depending on what the inner fender structure looks like.
This would not include finish paint

:cheers:

Bean cans :rofl:

paulgrr63

Quote from: GN on May 11, 2009, 06:54:52 PM
Have it done by a shop if you are not sure on how to do it.

Thats exactly what I'm going to do :yesnod:

moparheater

Any updates...or still rusty?  :popcrn: