4 quick paint questions

[AKcharger]

OK, I'm about to paint a "training car" in practice for next time I fix up the chargers ('88 4 runner) and have a few questions...seems I do this just enough to forget;

1) Final sanding - wet sand 400 and hit it with a green scotch bright pad right? Body is good, clear coat dead...was just going to sand/scuff and shoot

2) Temps during paint should be about 67 degress...good right?

3) How long min/max is the time to wet sand/buff the clear coat?

4) Do I have to buff out the clear coat with a big orbital sander/grinder thing or can I use my waxing buffer? I've never buffed before

Any last second tips? especially with base/clear...my 1st time shot that stuff

Thanks!

My paint experience:

- Sprayed Filler primer 2004
- Sprayed OMNI single stage in trunk and engine bay 2005
- Sprayed Filler primer 2006
- Sprayed OMNI in engine bay 2008

[AKcharger]

...Help, I plant to shoot Thursday

[restoman]

To save time and mess, you can final sand dry with 500 or 600 grit, and a grey Scotchbrite pad
Optimum paint temp is between 68 & 72, but excellent results can be gotten regardless of temp - adjust the reducer and hardener speed if required, but for most conditions, medium will suffice.

I like to wait at least one full day before wet sanding - allow more time for the cheaper brands of paint. After a week or so, the paint will be very close to fully cured and will be harder to cut and polish.
sand and polish only if you need to remove orange peel or dust. a rotary polisher will work better than a random machine, which is what most waxing machines are.

[mikepmcs]

I'll wait for the real experts to chime in but i'll answer the buffing question.  You need a variable speed buffer.  Once you cut the clearcoat and flatten it out you will need it.  

You are good on the temp but where are you painting the car?

Opinions will vary but i'll get this one going... what clear are you using?  I would wait a couple days to wet sand, then wait another day after I wet sanded in case there is any blushing/solvents that need to come out etc... Conditions have a lot to do with this but all I keep thinking is you live in Alaska.

When you say the clear is dead, is it all still on the car or is it chipping off in places. If it's chipping then you are gonna half to do better than 400 and a scuff pad.  If it's all still there I would take a spot and cut it with some 2000 and buff that out to see if you can bring it back.

I'm all over the place with my answers but it will get others thinking so they can add to or correct me, etc....
Make sure you give a good overlap 75% when you are spraying...also don't forget you air pressure settings are important when applying paint and clear.  Does the BC have flake in it.  

Ok , enough for now to get the brains working......

[AKcharger]

Yeah, answers!!!

Thanks guys, copy all.

Mike
- Plan on painting in garage
- PPG base/clear...not sure what line
- Paint is dead dead plus some small dings and such...it needs paint
- Oh, 75% overspray huh, I was going to go 50%...should have metal flake in base

Thanks guys!

AK

[dads_69]

Give me a call if you have not painted car yet. PM sent.

Mark