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Dropping K-Frame

Started by FLG, May 12, 2009, 07:51:04 PM

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FLG

Sorry mods if this is wrong section.

In the future some time i want to remove my engine/tranny and complete front end. Whats the best way to drop the k-frame and remove it all in one shot? Or atleast remove the engine and k-frame in one shot (is it possible with the tranny on too??) and then keep the car rolling so i can still move it around. Id like to be able to do this on a budget. I know a member did but im not sure were the post it.

Thanks!!

maxwellwedge

Have you got a 2 post hoist? It's the easiest way but not the only way. I take the engine and trans out on the k-frame in one shot.
You will need to fabricate some brackets with wheels to move the car around after if you need to move it.  My brackets bolt to the k-frame holes in the frame rails. I have a cart welded up to accept the whole assembly out of the bottom but you can rig up a good moving dolly with assorted 2x4's and 4x4's to steady the engine and trans on the dolly. Before I had all the correct equipment I did the low-buck with the dolly and an engine crane. I put bolts through the front shock holes with washers and put a chain across to lift the body with the crane. You need to set the dolly up with your wood supports under the engine/trans. Have the front of the car as low as possible (wheels off). Un-do all the stuff you have to - torsion bars, shocks, exhaust, fuel lines trans crossmember, rad, trans lines, steering coupler, linkages, driveshaft, wiring etc. etc. After removing the torsion bars, I pull the spindle to lower ball joint bolts out and leave the spindle and upper control arm in place. This keeps your brakelines and alignment intact. You can take this stuff off after if you want to work on them. Once you have all that stuff removed make sure the engine/trans/k-frame is supported well with your dolly, remove the 4 k-frame bolts and then lift the body up with the engine crane (chain from shock tower to shock tower) and voila, roll the whole mess out from under the body.

Charger-Bodie

68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

maxwellwedge

I could have removed his in the time it took me to type all that stuff!  :smilielol:

Nacho-RT74

everything  what links the K frame and engine/tranny with body:
-Gas line
-Radiator hoses.
-A/C and heater lines
-Exhaust pipes
-Engine wiring
-column shaft
-Brakes vacuum hose
-Drop radiator shroud
-Tranny linkage
-Driveshaft
-NSS harness
-Tranny cooling lines from radiator.
-Front Brake hoses.

Then about suspension and K members:
-Release T bars tension
-remove UCA plates from K member tower ( 4 5/8" hex heads on each side )
-remove K member bolts
-remove T bars crossmember bolts
-remove tranny mount crossmember.

I think thats basically all, at least what I can remember
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: maxwellwedge on May 12, 2009, 08:23:23 PM
After removing the torsion bars, I pull the spindle to lower ball joint bolts out and leave the spindle and upper control arm in place. This keeps your brakelines and alignment intact.

on 73/74 you can left T bars in place because the T bars crossmember is bolted and can come off from car
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

r_biccum

1969 Dodge Charger SE 383 727 #'s matching with original 8 track
1996 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4
2003 Hummer H2