News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Stainless brake/fuel lines vs. regular steel

Started by bull, May 10, 2009, 06:51:53 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

bull

Obviously stainless is better when it comes to corrosion protection but I have to wonder if it's much of an issue in brake lines seeing as how (when working correctly) the lines are always solid with brake fluid. Fuel might be a different matter but in your opinion is it worth the extra $50 or so for the brake line upgrade and $35 extra for the fuel line upgrade?

Charger-Bodie

I bought the Stainless lines and cables for mine simply because its painted underneath. The lines will stay looking new longer. If I were to have undercoated it I would have just gotton the regular lines.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

terrible one


I went with regular steel due to my budget, but I've heard that stainless lines are harder to get to seal up because they are less malleable.

Rolling_Thunder

Quote from: terrible one on May 10, 2009, 07:25:36 PM
I went with regular steel due to my budget, but I've heard that stainless lines are harder to get to seal up because they are less malleable.


I went with stainless simply because I think they look kick ass           other than that I have dealt with them in the past and love how they fit / look
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

Nacho-RT74

after 35 years on my car, I wouldn't think or worry really on get them regular like the originals if I need them, since STILL NOW they haven't been affected by any rust! at least outside.

Since I haven't had that problem I got my new tranny cooling lines on regular steel too
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Mike DC

 
The originals would probably be fine, IF we knew for sure that we were really getting original-grade regular steel again. 



But are we? 

Name the last reproduction part you've bought where the steel quality was within 10 miles of the original stuff. 


resq302

Yes, stainless is harder to get to seal if you don't know what you are doing.  With stainless you have to tighten, back off, and tighten a couple of times in order for it to seat propperly.  I went with stainless for one reason, durability.  The lines on my charger were pretty well rusted but on our chally vert, the original steel lines are in pristine shape.  Someone raised the question about the quality of  steel today.  I can pretty much guarantee that the steel today will not last as long as what the steel did of yester-year since today's steel is junk in my opinion.  But again, this is all just my  :Twocents:
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

maxwellwedge

When we are all dead and gone, and our cars are rusted away there will be shiny, spaghetti-like metal glittering across the landscape.  :icon_smile_big:

And who says the (chinese) stainless is good quality?

I use the standard steel on all my (restored) stuff - but I am an originality freak.  :P

resq302

Maxwell,

Only reason why I use stainless is since before I got my home last year, my charger was stored outside in my dads Cover-it garage and it used to get a lot of humidity / moisture inside it just from the outside air.  The humidity seems to promote rust and oxidation.  The stainless holds up a lot better to the oxidation in my opinion. That, and stainless is an acceptable replacement for the stock shows I attend.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

maxwellwedge

No problems - I was just funning with you guys.  :cheers:

resq302

Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: Mike DC (formerly miked) on May 11, 2009, 03:43:11 AM
 
The originals would probably be fine, IF we knew for sure that we were really getting original-grade regular steel again. 



But are we? 

Name the last reproduction part you've bought where the steel quality was within 10 miles of the original stuff. 



you GOT a point there!!!

I think talking about repro parts I have got just satisfied with repro parking lenses ( TOTAL SATISFACTION WITH THOSE ) BUT NOT the gaskets coming with them. had to get the lenses from detrot muscle tec WHAT ARE HOT MADE PARTS TOO.

then soft seals weatherstripes are not really bad, but end cap area could it have better finish..

T handles are mostly perfect, EXCEPT chrome quality ( is peeling off ) and not knob return spring present on assembly.

what else about that point ?, I can't rememeber right now more about but is a fact I always try to get NOS CHEAP OPPORTUNITIES.

talking about the tranny lines... they weren't bad, but not perfect... I had to stretch them a little bit to made them fit. If they were stainless steel, sure would it be harder to fit.

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Charger-Bodie

I think the Stainless line are great for over-restored cars and cars that will see alot of driving.

If I were doing a points car Id go with regular steel lines and cables.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

resq302

Quote from: 1hot68 on May 11, 2009, 10:09:13 AM
I think the Stainless line are great for over-restored cars and cars that will see alot of driving.

If I were doing a points car Id go with regular steel lines and cables.

I couldn't agree with you more.  If my car was a 500 point trailer queen that only went to shows, I agree that it would have gotten steel like original.  However, with driving my charger and where it used to be stored, durability and longevity, for me, stainless was the way to go.

Yes, stainless can be a challenge to bend when the need arises since we had a minor tweaking issue for our chally when we had to replace the tranny lines but they look so nice when they got in there.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Chatt69chgr

I got the stainless lines since the cost differential was not very much.  Regular brake fluid is hygroscopic and can, if exposed to the atmosphere, absorb water and rust the insides of the lines.  That said, I've never had a line perforate or break.  As far as fuel lines go, with the ethanol in the gas now, I think using stainless for these is a good idea.

charger2fast4u

i need to redo my brake lines on my truck. and finish the brake lines on my 68 charger with ssbc brake kit. and was thinking of going with this http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/63030K/10002/-1 anyone use this kit or know if it is worth it? i'd like to go with ss but can't find a kit like this one in ss only galvanized.

1973_WP29P

I've been selling alot of the Nickel Copper Alloy brake lines. Here in the northeast it is the better choice.

Check out this web site: http://www.mehta-group.com/cupro-nickel-tubes-automobile.html

It bends more like copper tubing and it flares & seals great.

This is the only line I'll use from now on. Should never need to be replaced.

b5blue


1973_WP29P

No. I sell Nickel Copper Alloy brake lines. It was just the first site that I came accross with it in it.

b5blue