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no spark...

Started by Moeggenpar, April 04, 2009, 06:20:52 PM

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Moeggenpar

I'm having trouble starting my 68'. I've replaced the coil(was not getting any spark to ground with wire pulled)and the ballast resistor.Still no luck.I'm using a FBO solid state voltage reg. with the Mopar electronic distributor.Could it be the ECU?Do the orange boxes just go bad? :shruggy:The car started fine until it was stored for a period of time.The battery is charged and all the grounds are tight and secure.There is gas getting to the carb so fuel is not an issue.Thanks for any help!

A383Wing

Do you have power to the coil when key is in "on" position?

Other possible causes are bad pick-up coil in distributor, bad resistor, or bad ECU

ACUDANUT

Quote from: A383Wing on April 04, 2009, 06:24:31 PM
Do you have power to the coil when key is in "on" position?

Other possible causes are bad pick-up coil in distributor, bad resistor, or bad ECU

Yes, check power to the coil.

b5blue

Check that the ECU "shell" is grounded...BUT DO NOT GROUND THE TRANSISTOR(round thing on ECU)!!!! If the "shell" is grounded check to see if the top of the transistor reads 12 volts + (should be hot with key on) If you don't have 12V+ there it's fried...been there,seen it,bought the shirt!! :2thumbs:

ACUDANUT

which pin on the ICU has 12 volts.  The one one top ?  I don't remember just "one pin" at the top...There are 2/3 up there.  :shruggy:

Moeggenpar

Quote from: A383Wing on April 04, 2009, 06:24:31 PM
Do you have power to the coil when key is in "on" position?

Other possible causes are bad pick-up coil in distributor, bad resistor, or bad ECU

Thanks for the replies.Please refresh my memory: how do I check for power to the coil with the key in the "on" position?

mikepmcs

Use a test lamp(ground it to the motor) Put the pointed end to the positive (+) side of the coil with the ignition key in the on position and it should light up. 

This article might provide some good tips as well.

http://webhome.idirect.com/~snidey/manual/4sprkchk.htm
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

b5blue

I'm not talking about "pins"...I'm saying a really quick check is be sure the shell..case...metal thingy...outside housing is making grounded (-) contact first, after sitting or every year check all the grounds for good contact is S O P in my book. Anyway use a test light or a meter and see if the transistor (the round thing on top of your ECU box next to the heat soak fins) reads 12V+ or makes the light light up...that disk is 12V+ on the outside of it if the key is on and if the motor cranks and you have fuel that's the next 2 things to check on an ECU type system. The ECU box has to have a good ground and if anything metal touched the transistor and ground at the same time...POP...it's shot. I know I've had both happen  :2thumbs: good luck 

Moeggenpar

Quote from: mikepmcs on April 05, 2009, 07:15:16 AM
Use a test lamp(ground it to the motor) Put the pointed end to the positive (+) side of the coil with the ignition key in the on position and it should light up. 

This article might provide some good tips as well.

http://webhome.idirect.com/~snidey/manual/4sprkchk.htm
I have power going to the coil using a test lamp,but still no luck.What should I look for next? Thanks again.

mikepmcs

Power coming out of the coil.  I know you said you replaced it but you never know.  Also, don't forget what b5blue said a couple posts ago to check as well.
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?